Alkorahil

The Americans have been stealing German auto technology since the 1880's! Mein Gott in Himmel!

The wheel in the pics that hit the curb looks bent to me. The spare wheel could be bent as well. It could have been balanced incorrectly. check it again. witha bad tire or wheel you can balance a tire, take it of fthe machine, put it right back on the machine and get an entire different reading. Rotating the from right to left will help eliminate causes as well. If the wobble moves to from oone side to the other you know its the tire/wheel. The tire could be damaged internally as noted above. I just cant see the axle being damaged from that curb hit. the drum could have been warped inside, and hitting the curb the rear shoes have readjusted and are now rubbing more from being knocked out of whack causing a wabble.

Yep, knock sensor is not a fun job.

Why do you want it to go to 5000 or 6000 RPM?

Generally with an alternator problem there will be three lights on the instrument cluster light up: battery, at temp and brake. If your alternator is bad, the vehicle will run for awhile off the battery but then die. If the battery is bad it will not charge fully or at all but will usually run until turned off, sitting will cause the battery to loose power as well. As to it running bad, that I feel may be a seperate issue. Especially since this vehicle sits a lot? How old is the battery?

Good idea and point!

All you folks way up north always seem to have rust problems. We can tell when a vehicle has come from up there when it is brought into the shop here, its horrible underneath.

I can get you one. 14725-75P00 EGR TUBE $29.96 AUTO TRANSMISSION 14725-75P10 EGR TUBE $29.96 MANUAL TRANSMISSION

I need a 710 cap.

There are a multitude of rust inhibitor products out there. Any decent auto parts store or hardware store will have them. Needless to say, stay away from one in a spray can.

If you are looking at replacing fenders, remember also that the right side fender for a vehicle with power antenna is different than one with non-power antennea. One has a square hole, one has a round hole. Many people forget and many sellers dont know.

Good to hear they found it. I dont know about in BC but down here in good old Texas it is a felony, and I would prosecute if mine was stolen. I ahte thieves.

All seat belts from Nissan after 1989 have a lifetime limited transferable warranty against defects on the pretensioners and buckle. (it does not cover them not working after a collision, your dog eating them or cutting them with scissors, etc). This warranty is mentioned in the back of the owners manual in the last section. Many service advisors at a dealership will not know or be aware that it is covered going back that far. Do lot let them tell you it is not covered, sometimes you have to stand your ground. Make them punch your VIN in the computer system or call their warranty administrator. If they still give you flack call Nissan Consumer Relations at 1-800-NISSAN1 The dealer will also probably not stock this part. It will take them on average 2-3 days to order the part and get it from the warehouse. I have had mine done twice under the warranty (on two different vehicles) Both times the kits replaced the pretensioners and the buckles. In short, it is free parts and labor. If your local dealer is giving you problems on seat belt replacement under warranty give them this information including the Op Codes, this is straight from Nissan. WARRANTY COVERAGE PLAN SB Seat Belts - Useful life of the vehicle for 1989-2002 vehicles, 10 years for 2003 up vehicles. OpCode VK22AA Replace Front Seat Belt Tounge Assembly - One side OpCode VK213AA Replace Front Seat Belt Tounge Assembly - Both Sides If you take your vehicle to get seat belts done, and they say it is not covered, tell your Service Advisor to contact their Warranty Administrator and give this information, if they do not cooperate call 1-800-NISSAN1.

nice write up on the door lock timer. As to the O2 sensor..... I will say that I have had many people call in the past and say they got an O2 sensor at auto parts store X and that their vehicle runs worse, they get the OEM one from me and it cures their problems. Then again, I dont know if they got the correct one from the auto parts store in the first place, I happened to give them the correct Nissan part their second time and thats why it worked for them.

Sounds like a circuit board problem but could be two seperate problems: Bad Tachometer and bad sender unit. Thus changing out the printed circuit board wont change anything. A few other random thoughts: If you fill the fuel tank up and the level doesnt change try jumping on the rear bumper a few times to shake the vehicle around. See if the gauge starts to move then. The distributor sends signal directly to the tachometer. Make sure the harness/connector to the distributor is not corroded/damaged. Are you sure the harness connectors on the back of the instrument cluster were pushed and 'snapped' in all the way?

Having done this project before, I too can vouch that it is not 'fun'.

My 2 cents: I put those brake pads on my pathy and they were noisy chattery things! And that was with a new hardware kit.

You guys up north get all sots of rust problems from ice/snow/salt we never see down here. It really takes a beating fast on a vehicle. As a side note I will say that 'extended warranties' are a misleading in the least IMHO. A warranty is offered by the manufacturer. If one looks at their 'extended warranty' they are from third party non-manufacturer provider companies of various reputations. People unfortuantely think or assume it is from Nissan and it is not. It is not a warranty, it is in effect an insurance policy - an insurance policy with many, many exceptions as to what is and is not covered. And just like your health insurance company they can reject anything they want. Also, many basic 'extended warranties' only cover engine and transmission. If you have one of these extended warranties read carefully the terms and conditions! They also use the most inexpensive route to repair your vehicle, their favorite is using parts from salvage yards. I shudder everytime I see a front wheel drive sedan that has hit a curb and they are having the control arms replaced with salvage yard parts of various condition or a transmission that looks like it has been sitting out in a cow pasture for years. But the extended warranty company decides the source of the parts - anything to cut the expense another nickel. I have seen things put on that I would never put on my vehicle, but all the customer knows is 'I got my car fixed for a $50 copay' I got a real good deal!'

Pictures are worth a thousand words!

Given you tested the #1 injector I think you have two seperate issues. The B2#2 O2 sensor is kaput and the injector. The two are not related to each other.

Nissan injectors from back in this time period have a colored dot on the top of them. (blue, black, white, yellow, etc) All the injectors need to match on your engine. Os if you have say blue injectors you need to make sure the one you get is also blue. If you are going to replace an injector please make sure to put new upper and lower O-ring gaskets on it as well.

Without driving the vehicle I would look at the following for lack of power problems: 1) Did they get you the correct O2 sensor? If you replaced it and the O2 sensor code is still coming back on after replacing it I am wondering.... 2) As silly as it may sound....did you plug the new one in? 3) Air leak in the exhaust system before the O2 sensor allowing O2 into the exhause throwing the O2 sensor off. 4) As pointed out, Mass Airflow and vacuum hoses. Check all the vacuum hoses for any leaks/cracks/holes/frayed ends. The wiring harness connector to the Mass Airflow Sensor is notorious on these vehicles for giving intermitant problems, there are many threads on here about it. 5) Bad Distributor cap/rotor 6) Clogged fuel filter 7) Engine Timing off 8) Improperly gapped spark plugs/Damaged or fouled spark plugs. 9) Bad/loose spark plug wires 10) Engine Temprerature Sensor 11) EGR valve or EGR control Solenoid less likely problems: 11) Bad pickup module in the distributor 12) Fuel pressure loss from fuel pressure regulator or fuel pump. 13) Stuck Idle Control Valve This would be more of an all the time constant lack of power. The power door locks are on a completely different circuit and not tied to the engine computer. The engine pining is due to engine age.

This being an Auto AC system the first thing I would look at is the Mode Door Actuator is kaput. This actuator moves the mode door from floor vents to defroster vents. This actuator is located on the far left of the AC system behind the glove box. Alternately the connecting rod from the actuator to the air mode door may have simply come off.

This is an automatic AC system so it uses a variable blower power control module in place of a resistance unit. All R50 pathys use P/N 27761-70T03. List is $156.46. I can get it for you at $102.08 if you need it. I have also seen, albeit rarely, that the AC Control Amplifier (basically the brain of the Auto AC system) has gone bad and gives the symptoms of the Power Module being bad. Again very rarely, pray it is not so! I would also recommend cleaning the duct from the In Cabin Temp Sensor to the control module. This tube clogs up with dust bunnies easily and gives bad input to the AC system causing the system to run harder or not cool as well.

Blue. Pretty. Now I am interested.