Alkorahil

Yep, you want it to leak water!

reply off list

I should have mentioned that too

Being a 2001 model I would replace the engine coolant sensor anyways and with summer coming on a flush and refill of the coolant is not a bad idea either especially if you cant recall when it was last done. The temp sensor sends signal to the ECU so it can adjust fuel, air, emissions and so forth in the engine. It is an easy to replace and inexpensive part (MSRP $35) I tell my customers to replace every 60K miles, especially down here with our hot summers.

It would be a good idea to clean that leaf trap out about once a year.

We havent had this issue down here since we are in TX but I did see the internal bulletin when it came out. Those are some ugly pictures. After the Toyota thing last year all of the manufacturers are being very very cautious (maybe even overreacting) about anything that may cause a safety problem, and lead to bad publicity or a news frenzy like Toyota had. This is both a good and bad thing I think.

Assuming this is a 1988 V6 with 5 speed we actually have one in stock....... $48.36 I am showing plenty of availability for all models in the master warehouse...... contact me and I can get it to you.

As a follow up, cleaning the leaves and junk that accumulates in the trap is something you should do at least once a year. LEaves and such can build up in there over time and cause a fire. A few people on here can give testimony.

That is also a good idea, I have that setup on mine.

Go to your local dealer or parts store and ask for a can of evaporator core cleaner. To get to the evaporator: remove the glvoe box remove the black metal panle behind the glove box you will now be looking at the AC unit. The fan is on the right, the evaporator is onthe left. on the evaporator there will be a metal module screwed into it and facing you. (this is the blower motor resistor) It has wires coming out of it. unplug the module and unscrew it from the evaporator and remove it. lookinside, to the left in silver is the evaporator. It looks like a small radiator. You will also probably see leaves and crud inside of hear. gently remove this stuff from the evaporator catch. you can use a vacuum if you like. be careful not to touch the evaporator to be safe as it is easy to damage it. you shouldnt only need a philips head screwdriver for this project. A flashlight would be helpful too.

I would get a new mechanic..... just my two cents. Should you need to replace the oil pressure sender switch, here is the part number: Part Number: 25240-8996E Description: SWITCH ASSEMBLY-OIL MSRP $21.87

I think there really is some truth in that!

It may be that it just needs to be realigned because the hinges where they mount to the body have sagged. This is not too uncommon when a door is removed/replaced as yours was. The weight of the door over a few months after replacement causes the hinges to sag some.

This part is still avaialble from Nissan. MSRP is $55.10 I an do it for $33.61 plus shipping if you are interested. PART NUMBER 65601-01G0A MALE LATCH, HOOD

Yep see if the motor spins with 12v direct. I agree it sounds like the motor is kaput.

I concour with JamesRich, especially about cleaning out the evaporator on these older vehicles. Just doing that can make a big difference.

Yep, happens a lot more than people think, being a truck or SUV its up higher off the ground than a passenger car and not hidden up in the engine bay, so its easier to get to for thieves You can get $20-50 at a scrap yard for them.

Did you follow this?: http://www.dhardison.com/miscpics/fobinstructions.pdf OK so the switch light is flashing, so the VSS module works. The rapid flashing at the end you are getting is an error code meaning it is not storing the code (which we know). Only other things I can think of is one of the 5 door pin switches (2 from, 2 rear, 1 back gate) is in the open position or the hood pin switch on the firewall is reading open. You could try unhooking all of these and trying the programing procedure again. If it then programs there is the culprit. Going more outside the box, the door locks/timer are not working properly. Does the driver key unlock the driver door only when you turn it once and all when you turn it twice? Maybe put the swtich in a different position, say turning the impact sensor off on the switch or vise-versa, up to center or center to up. That woudl tell you the impact sensor or the switch is malfunctioning. The light on the switch runs directly to the control module and draws power there, it is not tied into the actual switch itself in any way.

Is the battery good in the remote?

What he said.

Yeppers. It is trying to go through the arming cycle when programing and the door is open, so it cant arm.

I dont think the pop charger is that loud IMHO and the spacer is not worth it as echoed above.

No they are not interchangable. They are two completely different part numbers.

If your vehicle is automatic, make sure you do the test light with the vehicle in neutral. (and parking brake on) Yes, that vaccum hose would definately cause the vehicle to be cranky at idle.

Was the door open when you did this?