Alkorahil

Yes I show the pieces inside the housing are available seperate: 40252-32G01 CLUTCH ASSY, HUB Nissan List: $99.52. I can do it at $72.85 if you so choose This part shows still available from the main warehouse.

Its really shiny and pretty! Make me an offer if you want, I might bite!

Ok that sorta confirms it then. the D21 with the KA24 used the same manual hub from 08/89-07/93 that the Pathy with the Z24i used.

http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=29058&st=0&p=552812&hl=spoiler&fromsearch=1entry552812

Some of the LE Pathys had a driver side courtesy lamp above the brake pedal. BTW its an easy install to do, just go to a junk yard, find a hardbody pickup or LE pathy and put it on yours, just plugs right in, the harness is under there unused. You can do the same for a glove box light The hatch sensor might very well be the culprit in this instance, try disconnecting it and see if it will work. The vehicle wont armt with the hood up, thats what I was refering too. Definately check the hood pin for crud and that the wire is good. It really sounds to me that the vehicle thinks there is a door open/pin short.

For vehicles with the manual hubs, the vehicles with the Z24i motor from 07/86 to 08/89 did have a different one than the vehicles with the V6 and manual hubs. I would bet thats the difference right there. I put an inquiry into Nissan to see if they can tell me how many splines each version had for confirmation, Ill let you know what they say.

The flashing light is an error indicator. Does it automatically start flashing as soon as you hook the battery up or when you try to arm the system with the the remote after hooking the battery back up? Will the system do any of the following: 1) Obey the remote? 2) Arm/disarm with the driver door key? 3) Stop flashing when you change the switch position to auto or impact? 4) make any audiable sounds from the horn? I hate to ask but are all the doors closed along with the hood and the pin switches including the one for the hood working properly? Is the hood pin opening and closing properly? (seen this cause problems from rust/gunk buildup as its exposed to the outside) Yo can try also, change the switch on to off, unplug the battery and re-attach, turn back to auto or impact and then try arming.

Sewebster, Adamzan and Chong Nguyen all bring up good points to follow. Try a very generous helping of a product called PB Blaster. You can get it at any auto parts chain store. Spray the nuts with this product, let it soak in, repeat. Do this several times. It will help break up the rust around the nuts but it sure does look to me from the picture that they will not cooperate easily. you can also try taking a flat blade screwdriver and see if some of the rust you can just scrape off around the nuts. Try the vice grips to get them off if you can. They will round easily so be patient with them. If you are replacing the whole section then cut them as mentioned above and get them off with a help of a vice to hold the part they are attached to.

Yes and they are not very expensive for something that fits perfectly and is pre-shaped, front/back whichever. Usually around $30. Same for fuel lines if you ever get into those.

Oh I understand, just trying to help. Been there myself a few times, sometimes when you gotta have it to get back on the road price starts to become less important!

I would recommend strongly replacing the rods, collars and washers: 54470-31G00 ROD TENSION $31.95 EACH QTY NEEDED: 2 54477-T6000 WSHR TENSION $3.78 EACH QTY NEEDED: 4 54479-50W0A COLLAR, TENSION $3.95 EACH QTY NEEDED: 2

The 98-2000 D22U Frontier shares even more parts with the WD21 and D21 than the Wd22 Xterra does. After 2000 it gets more specific.

Nissan part number 62500-0W700 will get you everything you need for replacement, This is the radiator support assembly with all the pieces and bolts. Basically remove the old support and slap the new one on.

By 'cluster' are you talking about the load bearing sensor? Are these the metal piping that are leaking? If so you will probably have to go to a dealer for those parts. If you are looking at any of the ones I am thinkg you are describing they are only list price of $32 so they are not expensive, but replacing them you will need to repalce the brake fluid as well and bleed the brakes. Also, check all the lines very carefully with a flashlight and pull the rear wheels. The fluid can be comeing from somewhere else and then bleeding down the pipe and collecting, so teh real leak can be further up the line, so to speak.

Yep Yep, torsion bars come off in this job to get to everything. Loads of fun!

I was going to say the same thing. A malfunction causing the engine running super rough will casue a Knock sensor code to go off as well. However, looking at all these codes, hwat codes you are getting all at once, which are really unrelated, and your mentioning a pinched wire(s) I am wondering if you have perhaps an engine harness problem where the whole harness is grounding signal out signal intermittantly and confusing the ECU abd causing the CEL to go on....

Pathfinders with the V6 from 87 to 95 used the same water pump no matter if it was 2WD or 4WD. Hardbody trucks with the V6 had 4 different water pumps used: 4WD V6 up to production date 08/94 same as the WD21 V6. 09/94-08/95 they used an even different water pump. Also note that the V6 Hardbody trucks made after 01/95 had a different EGR configuration than the Pathfinder. 2WD V6 Hardbody had a different water pump then the Pathfinder ANd the 4WD Hardbody up to 08/94. 09/94-08/95 they used an even different water pump. Production stopped on the V6 Hardbody after 08/95. 1995 was the last model year for the V6 truck in the US. Even though they are almost exactly the same engine and transmission, Keep in mind the WD21 Pathfinders were all made in Japan whereas the Hardbodys were all made in Tennessee after 1989. I would bet since you said the oil pan was different, if you did some research you would find that it came out of a 2WD Hardbody truck.

I wish I was on vacation, that was last week!

Check your distributor and make sure mud didnt get inside the cap.

Good lord man!

I am thinking you need to remove the distributor cap, note where the rotor is positioned, pull the distributor out, rotate the head 180 degrees counter clockwise and restab the distributor. On the crankshaft pully, tap the key slightly to move the crankshaft to where it is facing the bottom, remove the skid plate, take some white paint and a small brush and paint each groove so you can see them much easier with the timing light when you go to check the timing.

The distributor problem I am thinking will not be a gradual, it will just go start doing it one day and acting up for no apparent reason or warning. It will seem to idle fine, if you listen close there will be a slight stuble you can barely hear but can feel feel. When you apply the accelerator while parked it will start to stumble more. As to the smoke, no it was not always, I made it do maybe 3 times starting it when it did not want to start when I was diagnosing the problem. These distrubtors use an optic sensor and light inside of them. When rotating inside, whenever the optic pickup sensor passes the light it tells the engine to fire the spark plug for whatever cylinder just passed by in firing order. When the pickup sensor wears out wears out it will 'miss' a pass randomly. Eventually the component will completely fail and not start at all. As a side thought, you might want to get a hold of a timing light and check your ignition timing. It could be that it is just really far out of whack. If you do replace the distributor you will need one anyways. Some auto parts stores will rent them out and they are not too expensive if you want to buy a basic one. (about $40)

Yep yep, code 55 as I thought. Pop the hood and crack open the air box, when it backfires you will be surprised how much smoke there when it is not contained in the box and resonator in the fender. The strange sound is because it is in the intake, not exhaust so it is muffled. Damage? Its not good, could leave alot of carbon build up in the intake, or cause damage to the intake, throttlebody or intake manifild in an extreme case. I have seen this a few times before and had it happen before personally on my truck about 2 summers ago (so I knew exactly what it was when it started) , it is a replace the whole distributor situation. If you can get access, or borrow a known good distributor, it can help you diagnose and double check that this is your problem. Unfortuantely a new distributor on these vehicles is sorta expensive. You might also see in the 'Parts wanted' or 'Parts for sale' sections if anyone on here has a known good used one they might sell you.

Distributor! I will bet if you look the backfire in the engine bay is making smoke come out into the air cleaner box. This will not generate any codes in the ECU either.

If it is a single clunk noise when you go into reverse check the U joints on the drive shaft. Take a look at your rear brake shoes as well if you have rear drums to see if they are worn out or need adjusting, check also the rear suspension bushings, when you shift from forward to reverse the weight of the vehicle is redistributed and can make a clunk sound if any of these are worn out.