Alkorahil

The entire fuel line running under the vehicle is something you should get locally. Because of their size you would not be saving any money ordering it online (or from me) because of the shipping charges of something that is 6-8 feet long. The shipping charges would end up being more than the parts cost. I would be leary of shipping them as well since they are so extremely easy to bend/break. Here are the part numbers and MSRP from Nissan on them: PART NUMBER: 17338-41G00 TUBE-EVAP MSRP $28.80 PART NUMBER: 17510-41G00 TUBE-FUEL RETURN MSRP $40.86 PART NUMBER: 17506-41G00 TUBE-FUEL MSRP $75.26

As much as I hate to admit it, Nissan is just way too proud of their new CV axles....

The driving/fog lights were an accessory add on kit that dealers installed. That is why they do not show up in the FSM. Same for roof rack, step rails, ski racks, grille guards, hood bug shields, etc.

Is the idle set too low?

If the starter is the original it wouldnt hurt to replace it anyways.

Are you sure you are getting the correct sensors from the auto parts store? There are 4 different ons on your vehicle as you know. Two failing and being bad seems hard to believe.

If you have no power to the switch try kicking the driver side kick panel a few times. There is a connector behind it where the harness from the switch connects to the main body switch. Your left foot over time can cause it to pull apart. Pull the kickpanel and find the connector, pull it out and push it back real tight.

When you reprogrammed it did you have the doors all closed? Some people leave that little detail out

Some pathfinders had undertorqued front carrier assembly bolts that could cause some noise.

The computer looks for a flutctuating voltage signal from the O2 sensor. Normal operation is between 0.0 and 1.0V. As long as it is getting a signal within that specified range it will not trigger the CEL on an OBD1 system. The O2 sensor can be bad - constantly giving say 1.0 volts non-stop, and it will make the vehicle run bad since the signal is supposed to vary as the mixture changes so the computer can compensate. Seen this many times. I would also check your vehicle ignition timing a few degrees off will make a difference in milege as well.

FEEL the power.

Ignition switch?

A large Ford dealership here in Dallas got fined over 400,000, almost $500,000 by the state for doing that.

thats what I said!

IF you are failing at low spped the HC it may indeed be the PAIR valve: The '91 thru '93 high-port engine had problems with 'port wall wetting', where the injector was far enough from the intake valve that some fuel was sprayed onto the intake port walls. When the throttle was snapped shut, the increase in port vacuum sucked this extra fuel into the combustion chamber and caused hydrocarbon emissions to skyrocket. In addition, low intake port velocity at idle also caused an increase in port wall wetting, leading to a similar condition. The PAIRV was there to introduce enough fresh air into the exhaust for the cat/con to burn off the excessive hydrocarbons. The '94 and newer low-port engine moved the injectors closer to the intake valve and increased intake port velocity at low engine speeds. These changes were enough to allow for the elimination of the PAIRV. They were also responsible for the improvement in the engine's low-end power

Did you see my reply to your other post?

Yes it is a box mounted behind the ignition coil. Has a harness going into the back of it. I would not completely rule out the coil, just suggested starting with the transistor first since you had a total failure situation. Coil would tend to be more intermitant.

Saw these in a mailer I got from Four Wheel Parts the other day, they look nice for sure, I think they had them for $189.00

Pray that GrimGreg is correct.

I would guess the power transistor to the coil. I seriously doubt they would be able to check it, or know what it is..... The proceedure to check this part is difficult and the part has to be on the vehicle to properly test it.

I cant think of anything temperature realted that would make a starter not engage..... Three things come to mind here: 1) Check the battery terminals for corrosion and make sure they are clean and tight. The starter needs all the power from the battery to turn over. 2) Make sure the battery is good as well. 3) Check the ignition relays and make sure they are clean and secure with no corrosion.

I agree with Jamesrich, alternator and/or fusable link. check the battery terminals as well, make sure they are tight and making good connection/no corrosion.

That is correct, check the wire going to the temp sensor as well. Correct engine timing (15 +/-2 degress TDC) will also effect the level of all emissions that are checked (HC, NOX, 2CO) as being too far advanced or retarded will make the engine run 'lean' or 'rich'. The catalytic converter. EGR is the main factor on this engine in controlling NOX emissions, the three way cat controls mostly hydrocarbons (HC) and carbon monoxide (2CO) and to some degree NOX. One way to see if your vehicle cat is working properly is if there is water coming out the tail pipe. The cat converts unspent hydrocarbons to H2O. That is the emissions cannister. It has 3 lines going to it. One is the fuel vapor line that goes to the tank, one to the throttle and the other to the air intake. The cannister should have a label imprinted on the top of it of what hoses go where. I believe the top is to the throttle, below goes to the tank and the one by itself to the air intake, but thats from memory. There is a filter in the bottom of the cannister. If you do hard core mudding it is probably clogged. That is the PAIR valve. ( Pulsed Air Induction Reed Valve) It is a secondary emissions control part. For all intents and purposes, it is the smog pump. It introduces fresh air into the exhaust upstream of the catalytic converter during deceleration and extended periods of idle to help keep the catalytic converter at operational temperatures. Why your vehicle has it is a long story. Very common for this part to rust out. If everything else is in proper order you may be able to pass without it. You need a copy of the factory service manual. When you go to have the vehicle tested, make sure the vehicle is at proper operating temp, run it up at highway speeds for awhile before going. Also, run 87 octane fuel, preferably with as little ethynol in it. Try to have emissions done in the summer to help as well since the 'winter mix' gas will not be in circulation. Make sure there is no engine cleaner, injector cleaner or anything else in the fuel tank when having it tested. This will lower emissions of HC and NOX some.

I desperatly need some of these for the front of my truck. 1 is cracked.

Im thinking about putting a 1" one on mine. I like the stiffer handling. Then I can go drifting too if I want....