88pathoffroad

Personally I'd go higher numerically rather than lower. You'll have more torque to the wheels and it'll keep the engine working in a good RPM range. The only problem I foresee with that is matching gearing, a D44 can use 5.11's, which is close enough.

This is true, that Terranos outside the US are spaced over to the right side. I never have heard why.

The only problems I can see about an auto trans running too cold would be in subzero temps in areas that have extremely low temperatures. If you live in a mildly temperate area, it shouldn't be a concern.

Readjust the t-bar on that side up a turn or so. Easy fix.

You could also simply get underneath and spin the front driveshaft by hand with the t-case in 2WD. That would let you know if the hubs are locking up or not and whether or not the front diff is making the noises.

They all do that. That's why there's a resonator on the intake.

You can also try unplugging the alarm.

I'm starting to hate auto transmissions. These things are such a mystery to mess with or even attempt to troubleshoot...

That'd be your front pump seal. Have to pull the trans to get to it. Ew. I'm sorry.

I've had several sets of Cooper Cobras on my Laguna and they worked fine until the tread came off. That tends to happen with a musclecar, though. On another note, I see worn-out Cooper STT's all the time, which kinda means they're been run for a while...

If a hose or seal blew and you lost a good portion of your tranny fluid on an auto, then yes, that would render it inoperable.

It appears that the spindles and bushing tubes just needed clean-up, eh? The actual bushings appear to fit OK.

I've had the same kind of backup light bulbs in my Pathy for the last four years and they work fine. Not as bright as I'd like, but definitely better than stock. No damage to wiring or socket so far.

Trailmaster also still makes a BL kit. But only for 87-91's. IIRC.

The HB kits contain an extra 4 body blocks for the bed. HB's have more mounting points between the frame and body/bed. I think that's the only difference. My kit was for EITHER an HB or a Pathy and I ended up with 4 blocks left over.

Please try to label your topic a little better, "exh" is not a good thread title. Just so you know.

Just keep the t-bars separate, mark them L and R so they go back on the right way. If you also mark the ends where the anchors are you won't have any problems getting them in and re-tensioning them afterward.

The wrecked 89 I bought had those cupholders in it. I guess it was an early option after all!

My apologies, Mr. Overreaction. Perhaps public opinion should dictate more of what you do?

They work fine, you just want them far enough back so that you don't catch an ass-ton of light spraying across your windshield in the dark. Makes it impossible to see.

I've seen people do turbo setups on the KA24, but they're not cheap OR easy.

Some do have cupholders, but they only fit little cups or cans. There were several different console designs.

If you're looking for forward-facing lights to drive with, then I'd go with something nice. For rear-facing lights, try some of the NAPA tractor/farm implement lights. Cheap and bright!

A Jeep Cherokee. Grand Cherokees are ZJ's. IIRC.

If the ignition switch is screwing you up, I'd try a new one and see how that affects your problems.