88pathoffroad

Yeah, it's a 3600 filter. Same diameter but longer. Hopefully it's not too tight of a fit with no body lift. Mine's easy to get to with the 3" BL.

Hoods from 87-97 exchange on all Pathies and HB's. The hood will swap regardless of grill or headlight setup. 2WD HB fenders have the small bulges. 4WD HB fenders are the same as Pathy fenders AFAIK. I've heard about fit issues on the AC fenders too, but not firsthand.

I'm just waiting for easily-reproducible numbers that have been repeated over a considerable length of time. Let's say, one month with the pills and mileage numbers for that period versus no pill for a month. Do a test that's not a single tank of gas.

Synthetic oils are perfectly fine to use. Nissan won't void any drivetrain warranty for using it. That's ridiculous. I don't even know why the manager brought it up to you. Silly Canadians...

Lots of people have put 35's on a Pathy with 6-9" of lift. It sucks the everloving life out of the engine and it wrecks steering parts faster than you can whip out your wallet, but it's been done. I've even seen one on 38's, with 4+3+3 lifts and severely trimmed fenders.

We may want to hash out which t-cases had a recommendation for ATF versus GL-5. My FSM for 88 says GL-5 only, regardless of which transmission is used.

If access to the engine mount bolts is good, then you can leave them a little loose beforehand. Engine mounts don't usually break unless you offroad it hard or make a lot of power by highly modding the engine. You can get NISMO hard rubber mounts if you really want to, they're supposedly a step up from the stock soft rubber ones. They cost twice as much, though. I wouldn't go with solid mounts personally, I don't think the trans mount would like taking up the slack and you could possibly crack a cast part (tranny case, t-case) if the engine torques over enough under high RPM's. On the oil capacity...drain, refill with 4 qts and check the stick. Add more if needed.

$99.99 says it's a bad connection at the fuel tank or the sending unit itself. The pump has nothing to do with the gauge, of course.

I think you can get a rebuild kit with new seals, etc for that. People do it all the time.

Tell them it's Thorley or Pacesetter and watch them cringe...

That's right, it should be warmed up and running when you check it.

You need to match the gears as closely as possible front and rear to keep the drivetrain from binding. It's a given that you'll have to re-gear the donor axle to match your existing rear, so 4.56 gears are as close as you're gonna get. The transfer case gears are totally separate, no need to mess with those unless you want a REALLY low crawl ratio.

That's a sweet setup, Pezzy. Very nice indeed. *jealous*

Any reputable exhaust shop should be able to build a new pipe to replace the pre-cat EASY.

I had a cheap chrome .380 auto that flew to pieces on me one day when I was shooting it. Firing pin hit me in the face. Upon inspection, the breech had a hairline crack as well. Don't buy cheap guns, folks...

In limp mode it locks you into second gear, not third. After it warms up, turn the ignition off for ten seconds, then start it back up. That should put it back into normal useage mode unless something is wrong with it internally. There are tests you can run on the TCU, take a look in the Garage under the Tech Section or How-To's.

I still have stock torsion bars and I run 33x13.50's. They're sagging, though. *shrug* Now then...define "rebuild the front end". Steering only or suspension parts only? The steering stuff is what you need to take care of first, the centerlink gets loose, then the tie rods go, the tension rods like to waller out their holes, upper control arm bushings get loose and make it hard to align, the idler arm will bend slightly under abuse and make alignment damn near impossible...

'Bout like so:

I just cut up some semi truck flaps and used two pieces per side to cover up the fenderwells. Three or four screws each and it's good to go.

Happy Birthday, Kevin!

The only thing that'd do that is the throttle sticking open. No electronic device on the engine will make it rev up to max RPM's.

Calmini reccommends those wheels to keep it as close to stock as possible. You can run any combo you like, technically speaking. They might rub a little and require fender or flare trimming, that's all.

If your mechanic can't get that plug out with his tools on hand, he has issues. I can change mine in minutes.

To eliminate simple inline ignition wire shorts as a problem, you can spark the starter manually from the + terminal to the solenoid to get it to start without going through any switches or relays beforehand. As long as the key is turned on, that is. Your problem sounds like a toughie, it'll take some looking in to.

I have no way of telling you why it died from across the country. A frayed or corroded wire, the battery terminal, ECU plug, any number of things will make it die. It sounds to me like your battery simply died while you were offroading. You can crank up the torsion bars at least 2.5", but then your balljoints and tie rods will be at a pretty severe angle and they'll wear out faster than normal. You do not have to get different shocks for the front if you crank up the torsion bars. On the rear shocks, simply match the amount of lift you put on it.