88pathoffroad

Here's a pic of my dirty, DIRTY hatch with net. God, I gotta clean this thing....

Another way is to put the pulleys back on the crank temporarily and use a v-belt pulley wrench to hold it while tightening the crank bolt.

They are the same for both sides. I have a single Nissan manual hub off a HB for a trail spare.

I think you found a 4-cylinder header. You might want to make sure before buying. The Pacesetter V6 headers are more like $225-280.

Sounds like something came undone under the dash or the fuse popped where you couldn't see it. Did you test the fuse or just eyeball it? Use a DVOM and test for continuity through both blades.

Yes.

Duh, the guy who started the thread.

I doubt anyone in the US will have a copy of a 2-door 92 owner's manual, sorry. Much less one with a 4-cylinder.

Of course. It's just completely unsafe until you replace the drive flanges with manual locking hubs.

What is this wire basket you speak of? I remember a mesh net type thing...and I have one in mine, screwed to the plastic inside the hatch. I put lightweight stuff in there, rope, zipties, etc. Got it out of the back of a Ford Exploder.

Les Schwab overtorqued all 8 lugs on one of my buddy's bucket trucks...six broke on the spot and it took about a month for the last two to break off and send his duallys into the ditch beside him on a narrow-ass road in Washington. I was speechless. I have pics somewhere, but I can't find 'em right now. They looked it over and discovered that it had been done wrong. They owned up to it, towed his 15K lb bucket truck back to the shop and fixed both sides. Nice to see that happen for a change.

Shoot, you need 10 of the big blocks for the body. The little ones in your pic are for the bed, so they won't work on a Pathy.

They're not worth replacing and no, they shouldn't void the warranty. My shocks have had no boots for years and they still work fine.

Sweeeeet. You finally got to test out the new rear links! Nice work, man.

They're supposed to be at 80.

Milemarkers break. Seen it happen quite a few times. The hub body shatters. That's why they're so cheap. Lots of hardcore wheelers buy two sets cause a broken hub is cheaper to replace than a broken axleshaft...

It's old, crusty, and rusty. Does that give you any clue? You can take either end apart to reindex. I did mine on the adjuster end, it's just a hassle to get the adjusters out with the t-bars still in place.

That scares me...where do you think they got a 4" body lift? ...that's right, somebody made it themselves. Probably cranked SAE bolts into the metric threads and called it good. Scary.

My GF's car came back from America's Tire Company with all the lugs at about 30 once. No kidding. Warped the front rotors enough to need turning, and all they could say was that their policy is to always use a torque wrench and check all wheels before the car leaves the building. My ass.

By the way, the SLR diff drop bushings fit all WD21 Pathfinders as well, they just haven't tested them yet. The diff housing and all is the same AFAIK.

You can't drop it 3" by itself. Your lower control arms would be in the way and the axles wouldn't be anywhere near in the right place. The diff would also be below the level of the skidplate and oilpan. Simple answer: remove the diff, weld the holes in the mounts shut and re-drill new holes 1/2" lower. Weld more plate on for strength if you feel like it. I've had the same idea, but never had the time nor inclination to do it so far.

Millions of people run the Rancho shocks.

Yep, voltage regulator on back of the gauge set.

I'd like to know how you "downloaded" Photobucket. I bet that took a big chunk out of your hard drive.

Also check the ground for the alarm wiring, it's under the carpet along with the alarm module.