88pathoffroad

1. Go to auto parts store. 2. Find aisle with horns, choose a low tone horn. 3. Buy the horn. 4. Install in your vehicle, paying attention to included instructions.

That was probably the most generic and unhelpful thing I've seen anyone post here in a while...

Oil pressure sending unit.

Did you ground the switch to anything? IIRC it grounds through the tranny case. With it unplugged, it probably won't do anything, like you described. On the fitment note, I think you'll have to unbolt the crossmember and lower the tranny to get to the switch if you can't get in there otherwise. Is it accessible from the top anywhere if you remove a shifter boot and go through the floor? Sorry, I haven't got a diagram in front of me for where the switch is located.

In other words, the starter is probably siezed up internally, unless you disassembled it and made sure it works first.

Hmm. That's a wierd one. Make sure the battery terminals are tight with no corrosion, then check the fusible links if there are any. I haven't checked any 90-up Pathies to see what the battery attachments are. It sounds like something's just plain loose and only letting a little bit of voltage through somehow.

Bullcrap, take a wheel off and look for yourself. You have to unbolt the rotor from the hub to get it off.

Um, is that the same Pathy starter that soaked in salt water for a couple of weeks? Cause they're not sealed, you know...

Sweet! It just keeps getting better and better, eh?

There's a sticky with a website you can upload videos etc to for free around here somewhere. Your issue isn't timing AFAICT...if it were that far out, it would simply run at much higher or lower RPM's, or not at all. The dealership not being able to check your timing is a crock of sh!t! What a bunch of morons! That takes all of ten minutes to do! #1, check the timing. If it's so far off as to make it run like that I'll be surprised, but at least you'll be able to see for yourself. #2, check your ECU plugs and ground wire. #3, check all of the TBI's electronic accessory wire plugs. Let's see how it's timed and go from there. I have a sneaking suspicion about your catalytic converter, though...if it's clogged it may run like that too. Have you gotten underneath and visually inspected everything to make sure nothing's bent or broken?

K&N's are red to begin with. No idea on the filter change, take a good look and make sure all vaccuum lines and electrical connectors are secure.

Why don't you ask AC or better yet, ask Shrockworks?

Cut it out with a Dremel tool and cutting wheels? After you get one good cut through it you should be able to use a small chisel to break and deform it enough to pop out. Just gotta be careful to not cut up the crank too much. Also, if you can get a chisel on it from one side and bend it inwards, it should deform enough to come out. Just try not to beat the crap out of the crank, you don't want hammered bearings. Nissan recommends using #ST16610001 (J23907), Pilot bushing puller tool for removal.

There's no room. Take a look underneath and see for yourself.

That's fine for the newer models that don't have clogging problem, but the older ones die cause the stock cooler clogs up and chokes the fluid flow off. In the case of a 87-95, you'd just want a single large-capacity cooler regardless of temps. A block heater should probably be used for quick warm-up in really cold places. There's also something to be said for letting the whole system warm up before driving it in extreme cold. I cringe every time I see a woman jump into a cold car, turn the key and drive immediately off...

Optima batteries are very good. You don't need upgraded anything to run one, and it's a good insurance policy against discharge/recharge damage in case it ever gets abused/drained/recharged. I've had my Red-Top in four different vehicles for over 7 years and it still works like the day it was new. Holding 12.9VDC as we speak, just checked it a little while ago and I haven't driven my Pathy in weeks. Mine has been through so many discharge/recharges I can't remember and it still works fine. I know of three separate incidents of alternator failure when the engine ran only on battery until it died, and it took a charge and came right back to life each time. That single battery drove me home 65 miles from the sand dunes when the alternator died once, with not a problem. Any common lead-acid battery would have given up the ghost long ago.

Let me modify my statement. Some parts of it, yes. All of the internals of a Japanese 4WD automatic transmission, no way.

I don't think it's possible to bolt the balancer on 180 degrees off. That's why there's a key. It could have sheared the key and spun around on it's own, though.....owie.

A CV axle will break first. It's been done before. The front diff will be OK, they use the next smaller size diff from the same company in Subarus for the rear. Our front: R200A (V6) Subaru rear: R160

Where? Sheesh.

Those are the relays for the headlights. If you can swap them right to left and the problem still exists, then I'd start looking at the wiring between the relay and the headlight itself.

Yup, exactly. $900 for brake work that doesn't even require removing rotors is insane.

Your tranny is toast, and no, someone with no tranny experience can't rebuild one. Start looking for another one.

The fluid flows through the cooler fast enough to feel hot on both lines regardless. Trans fluid is highly pressurized. Tranny coolers don't provide a huge drop in temp, just enough to keep it within the realm of reason. Without the cooler at all you really do run the risk of overheating it though, so keep it on!

You guys are completely missing the problem with the steering system. It's not the tie rods, it's the centerlink. When the joints on the CL get sloppy, it allows the CL to twist torsionally and that allows the tie rods to bend and/or wallow out the joints on them. The reason L&P makes a CL and NOT tie rods is just that...fix the CL twist problem and the tie rods work just fine. BTW, they machine a new bearing housing, cut out the old joints on the stock CL, weld in the housing, re-hone it to size spec, then press in TWO spherical bearings per side. They provide grade 8 bolts and hardware with a predrilled hole for a cotter pin for safety. It's NOT a cheap process, even if you do it yourself. L&P is the ONLY company that offers an easy-to-install fix to the steering problem almost every Pathfinder owner faces. If it were that easy, everyone would have done it already, get me? L&P also offers an awesome warranty on their CL, five years. A stock CL won't last one year on the trail. For me, not even one trip. http://www.lpperformance.com/ By the way, Stage 1 is $290 INCLUDING shipping. Go take a look and read the info before talking sh!t, eh?