88pathoffroad

When the alternator dies, it gives you all three warning lights due to the way everything's wired. Been there, seen that many times.

If the base timing is set to 0, it will run TERRIBLE. Why the hell did he do that? It should be between 12-15 BTDC, regardless of cam design.

That thing is NICE! 5:14 gears, locker, winch, and all for $8k? I'd do it if I had the money.

Ebay, clear turn signal assemblies for about $24.

Anything with larger diameter pipes and a freer-flowing muffler will give you a little more power for sure. If stock is 2", go with 2.25" instead. You can go with 2.5" pipe if you want, too.

Wierd. I thought the wheelbase changed when they went to the 4-door style.

The meter fuse is for the gauges and dash lights.

Doesn't matter if you "can" do it if you don't have the time or inclination. Some people just have different preferences. Sounds like a full day's work to me! I've done ONLY the t-belt in a day. I left the water pump on and of course I didn't change all the fluids or do the oil pressure sensor, so they beat me hands down.

I think I hear the waaaaaahmbulance coming...

If they're aluminum, how come steel sticks to 'em when you weld it on?

You'll have to have the system drained of refrigerant if you want to do it legally, of course. Call around to a mechanic shop or two, maybe? The AC idler pulley will come right off no problem. The belt comes with it, it doesn't drive anything else. Honestly, removing the AC is only going to give you 25 lbs or so. *shrug* Maybe less, I've never weighed a Nissan compressor. Drop in the bucket when the rest of it weighs 4100 lbs. 10 gallons of gas weighs more than your AC system does. I'd say a good midway point is just removing the idler pulley, belt and compressor and leaving everything else as-is, it's all aluminum on the tubing and exchanger/condensor anyway. I suppose you could toss the accumulator too, if you felt like it. Might make a nice catch can for PCV, though.

There's a reason body shops use those wheels to remove pinstripes, you know...if they didn't work it wouldn't be used.

Here's how I did mine with a 4' x 2' piece of 3/8" aluminum...

*snort* Hehehehehehehe

A body lift kit is a body lift kit. You can pick from PA or Trailmaster, those are the only companies that make body lifts for Pathfinders. They're both very similar. I think it's up to you to decide what looks good or not. 31's look fine with 6" of lift, in my opinion. Depends on what you like. Do what you want, don't depend on what other people say unless it's really out of the ordinary and everyone agrees it'll look terrible. 31's generally run between $100 and $200 each, depending on which tire you choose. Again, you pick the tire that best suits your needs, a mud tire, an all-terrain tire, a street tire, whatever floats your boat. A few brands come in different widths as well, so grab an offroad magazine like Off-Road and start thumbing through the pages for tire adds. You can get a general idea what each looks like and costs that way for the price of a single magazine.

It's already sealed as good as it's gonna get. Silicone is just going to attract dust and dirt and keep it inside where you don't want it.

The wiring harness unplugs under the dash on each side. It's not a single plug, but you get the idea. They don't fish all the wires from the cab and then through the door hole when they assemble the vehicle at the factory. Next step is to make a set of tube doors that would bolt into the stock holes and latch up securely. That's how the Toyota guys do it.

As long as they're 6 on 5.5 pattern with a center hole big enough to fit over your hubs, sure.

Remember that new tires have a good 1" more diameter than worn-out tires due to the new, non-worn-out tread blocks. There's your 5 MPH.

In my town, there's a CarQuest shop that has a body and paint specific section. They sell real automotive paint and supplies, etc there. It was in the body section for $12. Mine is orange with a threaded stud poking out for attachment. I just chucked 'er into my cordless drill and got busy. The pinstripe removal wheel takes the stripe and adhesive off at the same time, but it does leave some smudges. A little bit of WD-40 on a clean white rag will take it all off with no visible remnants. WD-40's OK to use on paint as long as you wash it off afterward. Here's a pic...removing one of those nasty faulty bumper stickers Jim had made up a long time ago.

Not to mention that portal axles weigh well over 1000 lbs each, complete. Can you imagine more than a ton of weight just in two axles under a Nissan? Wow.

You can do all that with one switch, provided you find the right wires from the headlight switch and the brake pedal.

I tried some and I can't say it hurt anything. The Lucas engine oil additives now, are another story altogether. I've heard BAD things about the oil additives.

Offhandedly I'd say start looking for a way to take apart the console so you can replace whatever bulb's gone out. If it's an automatic, what's the difference? Put it in D and go.

Just dump some nice 89 octane in on top and call it good. Good work, it runs! Woohoo!