88pathoffroad

Pull the 3rd member, disassemble the entire carrier case and remove the friction discs and steels, then replace one of the thinnest ones with a new one from Nissan and swap around the order of the plates and steels. Look it up on Nissanoffroad.net for more info, it's totally been covered there.

It comes through the vents on my doors, not the speakers. They do that on purpose to keep fresh air flowing. Tried switching the AC controls around to full recirc as opposed to outside air?

The trans and t-case are separately lubed...if you have an auto, the t-case still takes gear oil.

Gear ratios have to match if you're swapping diffs. Check the donor vehicle's build plate under the hood on the pass. side for the axle code. HG43 = 4.3 gearing, HG46 = 4.6 gearing.

I used a holesaw to cut a hole for the drain plug in mine. It gets oil on top of the plate, but a good wash and degreaser spray and you're good to go.

It most likely has LSD, and the wires are for the ABS sensor. The Lock-Right won't fit into a LSD diff, only an open diff, so you can scratch that one off your list if you determine that you really do have the LSD. You can rebuild the LSD, though. Add a friction disc and tune 'er up and it'll work just like a locker, but with slip.

Another thing to consider is the "what if" factor. What if you sell it, get another one and have to do the exact same thing all over again? What if you can't find another one? What if you get a new vehicle instead and then your payments are a lot higher than the cost of maintenance on your old one?

'Twas high-temp engine paint, and sadly, it still chips off. If you want it to stick better to the chromate finish, you might want to sandblast or sand them by hand.

Nooooo, read the instructions that come with the timing light. The O2 sensor doesn't provide any feedback for the ECU until it's warmed up, so when cold it doesn't matter if it's unplugged or not. I looked and didn't see....have you run the ECU error codes? Nothing?

The Chilton's is wrong. Take a look. http://nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refgh0v/...thfinder/EC.pdf

There's one terminal for main power from the battery and one for the starter solenoid wire.

That's cause it's too high...

Yeah, but I don't think a 91 front bumper has the same bumper mounting points. That guard ONLY bolts to the bumper bolts like mine does. 91-up guards usually have a straight-back tab that goes through the gap in the middle of the bumper and bolts to the frame mounts underneath, as well as tabs to bolt it to the tie down points on the bottom beside the tow hook. That said, I don't think it will bolt on, no.

A Haynes manual will have the brake diagrams in it to look at, if nothing else. I don't think anyone's done a write-up cause it's such a common job.

Sometimes the alarm units go out like that too. Make sure the wiring's plugged in securely and if there's a ground wire, make sure it's grounded well.

Do you have a specific problem you're troubleshooting? I have a 88 FSM, but the wiring pretty much stayed the same. Post specifics, like what engine, tranny, etc.

Martin: You probably have loose tie rods, idler arm, or CL. Have someone rock the steering wheel back and forth (engine off) while you look underneath at the joints to see where the play is coming from. I know you say you just replaced the CL, but I've had 'em go south in fairly short order when offroading...

Damn, man. That pic is huge. Would ya resize it for us, please?

As far as I've seen, there's no room for bearings in the idler arm. Not enough surface area. Brass bushings would be an improvement but will have to be custom-machined.

You have to pull the whole thing apart to get the sector shaft out. The steering box has to come off the vehicle. That's why I got a new one instead of trying to rebuild it.

Mine did that. I got a replacement junkyard steering box. It leaked so bad it was like pouring the fluid in at the top and coming right back out the bottom.

You can get replacement metal fuel line and bend it to fit yourself. Problem is it's not generally available at most parts stores.

Should be in the back underneath the truck, over the rear axle somewhere. Trace your brake lines...

The ones on Ebay are fine, mine have been on for about six years now.

All you have to do is run new speaker wires under the carpet. Simple job, takes a couple hours, and no more amp problems. That's not "rewiring the whole truck".