88pathoffroad

Advancing your timing for more power works. Just don't push it too far or it'll start to knock and then the ECU will retard advance and you'll lose momentum.

Fixed. Use it on any forum you like, it's hosted by me for free.

It will look fine with 31's and that much lift, unless people want to nit-pick. Tell 'em to buy you new tires if they don't like the way it looks. I had mine on 31's with 3+3 for quite some time and never got any complaints.

Stock UCA's and bushings, yeah. Most likely not with aftermarket ones.

I bet a general mechanic can beat that quote with aftermarket parts for a lot less.

Here you go... http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

As a rule, I'd hesitate to put any kind of "remover" product on the paint of a relatively new vehicle. The eraser wheel works perfectly safely without damaging the paint if you just take it easy and go slow with it.

Yeah, they busted that myth on TV on a couple of shows. It works much better with the tailgate up cause the air doesn't flow over the roof and then straight through the bed, it makes a bubble of air that circles the inside of the bed. That bubble keeps the drag down on the rear of the truck. Toss a semi-inflated sandwich bag back there when you're on the freeway and you'll see it do circles.

Don't install those. The offset is way too far off. I'd send 'em back right away. The screwed up one will eat bushings under pressure and then they won't send you a new one cause you installed it, even though it was welded crooked.

Unless you really go to town and replace everything you can you'll never notice a bit of difference. Seriously. You'll be better off tearing off the heads and porting them, then getting new cams, etc.

This is where you get to use your imagination and brain to do it yourself, Jay.

Or $10 from a junkyard. I found that Ford Exploders have rather large external coolers right up front under their grille, easy to get to and cheap to boot. I run two of them in-between my radiator and the AC condenser. Here's a pic. DIY tranny flush: Do this with the engine/tranny cool, just in case. edited for content and accuracy! -88 That will change out nearly all the trans fluid without too much hassle. I've done it several times myself at home. It's exactly how the "Flush Machine" at Jiffy Lube works. I used to work at a Jiffy Lube as a pit man, and I never had a complaint about any vehicle afterward.

lol, an ICP quote. I paid $130 for mine from a dealership. You can get a generic 3-wire for around $40 if you care to splice and dice wiring, though.

I can't think of any fluids that would be on the transmission crossmember that do not smell at all and look black on the ground. Is your clutch fluid level good? Exhaust hole leaking water out onto the underside and carbon fron the inside of the pipes making it look nasty? Try this, find exactly where it's dripping. Follow it upwards from underneath and ID the part at least. This is high-school shop stuff here, you gotta get under there and eyeball it at least.

Yeah, basically they spray it and shove it out the door. No sanding, no buffing, no extras, just raw shiny paint. And if you don't mask stuff off or remove things like mirrors or door handles, they'll paint those for you real quick.

I don't think so, the Lock-Right just goes into the stock carrier, no added strength. The ARB is a completely different animal, though.

Exactly. Centerlink first, then tie rods and balljoints, then bushings, then UCA spindles...the steering box should be fine.

The "disc and sensor" they're talking about is the crank angle sensor. It uses a very thin disc with holes precision-cut into it. The disc spins with the distributor, providing the ECU with information on crankshaft position, fuel injector firing information and it calculates ignition timing advance, fuel timing and piston position for the engine. As it spins, the holes move past a LED at the bottom and a pickup sensor at the top. When the pickup sensor gets a bit of light through the hole in the disc, it signals the ECU. That's how the crank angle sensor works. That said, I can't see why there would any problems with scratches on the disc, all they would do is look bad. The light would still show through the holes as the distributor spins. Problem with the sensor itself is, Nissan decided to make it an integral part of the distributor, as far as I can tell. I vaguely remember someone telling me that they swapped one out once, but other than that what everyone else does is just plain swap out the whole distributor. A Nissan dealership charges about $500 for a distributor. The sensor is available at parts stores AFAIK for around $100, but then you have the unknown factor of whether or not you can get the old one out of the distributor... Try Ebay for a cheap distributor, or ask me, I have a couple of them laying around here I bought a few years ago just in case.

It had juuuuuust enough voltage for the lights but not anything else, heh. The ECU won't operate below 8 volts, I think.

If you do use a soft rubber/polyurethane pinstripe removal wheel to remove the pinstripes, do NOT go fast with it. It will burn the pinstripe and adhesive and melt it into your clearcoat. Use the slowest setting on your drill or air tool and apply steady pressure. Ask me how I found that one out.

Yeah, he had to relocate the radiator under the front core support and do a bunch of cutting and welding it back together. No big deal if you have the time and a welder.

I suggest a Nissan dealership.

What do you need a stronger box for? Guys that've SAS'ed their rigs run stock steering boxes all day long on 33's and 35's.

Yeah, that's the one. I talked to him a few years ago and he had the front driveshaft made up and working. It just needed to be fabbed up when the pics were taken.

I don't see how it's getting dust inside. The distributor should be sealed completely, regardless of operating environment. There's a gasket for under the edges of the cap, is yours missing?