88pathoffroad

'Snot a resistor, it's a capacitor AFAIK. Martin, do you have any cents to throw in on this subject? FWIW, I added stock tweets to my front doors by simply splicing them into the door speaker wire and they've worked fine ever since.

9000's are simply adjustable. 5000's are not. You decide if you want to be able to turn down the shocks for softer on-road ride and whatnot. On the hubs, Warns don't break, Milemarkers do. Just so you know.

Yeah, you just gotta unplug the sensor and it won't trip the CEL.

That's not a leak, it's just leftover fluid on the housing from the last time the plug was pulled and the fluid checked.

The 3.3 block and heads are the same but you have to swap the FI components and other things onto it for it to work in your 95. Should be a good bump in HP, like they say: There's no replacement for displacement.

I don't think it matters, they still rated 'em at 153 HP.

You have to take the oil pump off first. http://www.nissan-techinfo.com/Nissan/refg...thfinder/AT.pdf

A Lock-Right is only about $275 and goes into your open diff. Swapping a LSD in won't get you any further and the parts could cost that much anyway.

Yeah, I think it broke the timing belt and pistons started hitting valves. Ouch.

Hmmm. Sounds like the alignment is not right. It shouldn't drift that easily, even with a lift kit. Do you have a steering stabilizer installed? Did you go up on tire size immediately after lifting it?

They're not that bad. The AC stuff comes out pretty easily, but the condenser is in front of the radiator so you gotta pull the hoses and at least tip the rad back to get that out. The CC is like that too, just plug the ends of all the hoses with something....wine cork, bolt and a hose clamp, your finger...

Carry spares. If you break one, it can be welded back together if you have some way of welding it. Use a small-size wrench on either side and weld the wrenches to the broken ends of tie rod. Re-adjust the length if necessary and go easy on it.

What were the circumstances it died under? Driving, starting, offroading? More info, please.

I'd pull 'em off. You can re-attach them with the same gaskets if you're careful. Leaving them on is gonna be a major PITA to get the engine back in.

I had to weld a bead around Rami's shaft, weld up a couple pieces up pipe to fit over that(and be able to hit with a hammer), then beat the piss out of it with a 2.5 lb hammer in a bench vise to get it loose. They're NOT very easy to pry apart. Soaking with PB and using heat seems to help.

If you can find a taillight in a junkyard, the wiring harness with bulb sockets comes off it with a few screws. Totally swappable.

Rami's did that a little. Jack the body up or down a little and see if it lines up better. Also check to make sure nothing underneath is hanging up and pulling the back end out of whack.

It is. The shock broke off at the bushing retainer weld. Crazy, man.

If you're in Canada, you can get a Champion 8000 lb winch for $400 Canadian at Sam's Club or Costco.

I hope you got the 300ZX studs instead of the standard Pathy studs, cause you'll be replacing them again if you didn't.

How do you propose to install a cone filter on the TBI?

...which is still a Fram. I'd switch to Wix to protect that $10,000 engine if I were you...

Drill a hole, install a grommet and run a wire through. How hard is that to figure out?

More grinder and a dust mask. Don't you hate those black boogers?

There is a clip-in section at the very bottom of the circular part that's removeable...