88pathoffroad

I don't think the TX10 is clockable, man. If you put two together, it'd put the driveshaft in the passenger's side too, wouldn't it? I could be wrong...

She's right. You have to loosen the rockers up and then put on the belt, tension it up, THEN tighten up the rockers when the cams are able to rotate without causing interference problems.

Check the obvious....spark, fuel pressure, cylinder compression pressure...

The marks all need to line up, regardless of lifter position or cam design. It shouldn't be off by that much.

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!! Did you just say "power" and "KA24" in the same sentence on purpose? I think you've overestimated the aftermarket's capabilities to produce quality, effective performance parts. And yes, the 4-cylinders have a timing chain.

How much amperage were you feeding it on the bench, K9sar? Those things pull a lot of power when they run.

The only thing that switch does is raise RPM's by 200 or so when the line pressure goes down. If I remember right. It's a simple pressure switch, off or on. Nothing will be damaged by not having the switch, the pump was designed to NOT overpressurize the lines...what do you think happens to that baby at high RPM's?

Yep. Go read some Heinlein. "The Moon Is A Harsh Mistress"

Mine still works fine after 155,000 miles. The door locks are getting bad, though.

I have no idea, but if you're handy with brackets, I bet you could bolt your old slide rails under the new seats and make 'em fit. People put different seats in cars all the time.

They're metric, 10mm x 1.25 x 115mm. For the body lift, you'd need 80mm longer bolts, so 10 x 1.25 x 195.

You could replace the upper BJ while the axle's out, it's the only way to get a BJ puller in there.

Search the forum, I JUST posted a how-to on removing the t-case shifter.

TANSTAAFL.

I'd check your steering components. One or two bent or wobbly items can add up to a wandering Pathy.

That's really wierd, cause the only fuse for the running lights and dash lights is in your fuse panel. Try swapping fuses just to make sure...

That is the biggest bunch of crap I've ever read. Heh. "Sonic spark plugs increased HP on this race engine by 46 merely by changing plugs!"

All you need is the kit, instructions and time. Look in the How-To section for a body lift how-to article.

You pretty much have to modify the shifter so it'll work after a body lift.

It's not that bad. Take the wheel off, then the hub. Put a jack under the lower control arm and make sure it's supported so there's no tension from the torsion bar. Then unbolt your axle bolts at the diff end (put it in 4LO and any gear so it won't spin, out of 4LO to rotate the axle for the next bolt). Unbolt your upper balljoint, tip the knuckle to the side carefully and pull that axle on out. It'll go.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1996-Nissan...049194682QQrdZ1

Coolant, cause it keeps the engine cool and the block from corroding internally.

The interlock switch is on the bottom of the dash to the driver's right. I think. It says "Interlock" on it. It allows you to start the vehicle without pushing the clutch in, just hold down the button and turn the key. I'd make sure it's in neutral first, though...

Starters go out like that all the time. All it takes is worn brushes and good cylinder pressure to stop a starter from turning.

Popped fuse. Check your fuse panel inside, it's under the dash on the left side.