88pathoffroad

TransGo makes a shift kit for it that helps a lot. They run about $50. I don't know if they're a good idea for anyone that's an inexperienced mechanic to try installing, though.

On another note, you can re-wire the headlights with relays and heavier-duty wiring to increase voltage to the bulb and eliminate the infamous headlight switch problems. Add some 65W-low/100W-high bulbs and you've got the equivalent of the 5x7 Hella headlights with minimal swapping and parts locating.

Hmmm, I dunno when the cutoff date for use of the VG30E was on 300Zx's. The ECU for a VG30DE probably won't work.

Thanks...I just have to try and get the forum software going again. It's utterly screwed up and I haven't had the patience to mess with it again. I lost 3 months worth of posts and users, minimum. Even the complete write-up on the timing belt.

Can't say I've bent any, no. They just seem to loosen up and get sloppy.

Don't you have to send in your ECU to JWT for them to re-work? You'd have no vehicle for a loooong time if that's right.

I would REALLY be careful when prying hard against the cast aluminum oil pump, unless you want to shell out $90 for a new one. I used a three-jaw gear puller to get mine off, but a real balancer puller works better. Finally got one a while ago right after I needed it, heh. As for the question at hand, use a v-belt pulley wrench to hold the balancer while you tighten the crank bolt. I got mine from Harbor Freight Tools a while back, but they may have discontinued it...

The VG30i doesn't have an IAC valve.

Patrols come with remote disconnects for rear swaybars. All you'd need is a linear actuator and a spring-loaded clip machined to fit a slot through both a sleeve and a center shaft in the endlinks. Hit a button, 'click', swaybar disconnected.

I know the parts you're talking about. Those are splash guards, yes, but there are two, one on each side. They aren't specifically for the alternator, though they do work to shield it a bit. Good call.

The ECU has a soldered-in ROM chip. No flashie for you. You have to desolder the chip, then either add a socket to use for swappable chips or just resolder a new chip in. That's why.

I was giving a general range of tyre pressure, manufacturers state their maximum inflation rating on the side of the tire. You can run up to the limit without any problems. Many Ford vehicles use that style of external cooler. If you have a local junkyard or scrapyard to go to, try to find a cheap cooler from a 93-up Explorer or other SUV/truck. The Fords with a towing package generally have a larger cooler installed, if that helps. I believe your speedometer inaccuracy would be related to tire size. Going down a step in diameter to a 235/75/15 (28.8" tall) would likely put you back to rights on the speedo. Lots of Terrano/Pathfinders came with the 235's from the factory, then were swapped for 31's, so the speedo gear inside the transmission will need to be swapped out to make it accurate again. Alternatively, I'd just try not to speed too much.

Skidplates and relocating the alternator are all I can think of. There's no protection for the alternator from the factory, rubber or otherwise.

Sounds like the little plastic tabs that keep the linkage together inside the door broke or fell off. A Slim Jim would open the door if you get it just right, but I don't know what angle to use, sorry.

Check your tyre pressure, pump them up to around 32-35 psi if you don't mind a bumpier ride. You can add a K&N air filter, synthetic oils in engine and diffs, and DO install a new external transmission cooler. The stock radiator coolers clog up and kill transmissions all the time. The bigger the cooler, the better. Plate style coolers work better than tube-and-fin style coolers. Give it a tune-up with replacement spark plug wires, distributor cap and rotor, a new PCV valve, perhaps a nice helping of intake cleaner (Seafoam works all-right if you can find it), clean your mass airflow sensor (procedure outlined in the Garage How-To section), and go easy on the gas pedal...

A big bass hit might pop your alternator. Pulling the battery terminal while it's running is a WONDERFUL way to create a voltage spike and kill other things as well, like your ECU...don't do that. Have your alternator tested at an auto parts place, see what happens.

Yep, it goes hand-in-hand with the EGR valve. Here's a 95 FSM pic. On a 87-89 VG30i, it's right in front of the EGR valve at the extreme rear of the intake manifold.

Mine's located the same place CrazzyMax's is.

Silicone the hole to eliminate that as a possibility, fix the wiring to eliminate that, and go from there.

If you're lifted with bigger tires, kiss gas mileage bye-bye. Bottom line. The additional weight, wind resistance, road/tire friction, as well as the gearing reduction due to tire size just adds up to poor mileage.

Where at I cant tell where youre talking about

Check your fuses again, there's one for the gauges. I believe it's labeled "Meter".

I'd probably remove the oil pressure sensor and screw in a fitting with a hose and gauge to check it.

Well, that's different. Of all the moving parts on a Pathfinder, the u-joints are some of the least talked about parts. The 4" lift shouldn't have much to do with it, mine has at least that much in the rear and no problems.

Since you were working on the stereo, check the stereo wiring again. You might have pulled something loose.