88pathoffroad

Doesn't it say on the box NOT to gap Iridiums?

That would mean your battery is shot, not the alternator.

Which UCA's do you have again?

Jiggle the CV and pull it towards you, or jack up the LCA so the hub moves upwards and gives you more room to maneuver. That should help.

Put a jack under the LCA and jack it up. How far are the t-bars cranked?

The stock alarm uses the stock horn. If it has an aftermarket alarm siren on it, it probably wasn't hooked up to the stock alarm. Pictures would help...trying to diagnose unlabeled broken wires you can't see is next to impossible over the internet.

Ditto! Happy birthday! *glug glug glug*

What you need is the AC Performance Accessories body lift kit for a 90-95 Pathfinder. NOBODY makes a body lift for a 90-95 that has the right bolts in it except AC because somehow they discovered a source for long-ass metric bolts (for the rearmost body mounts) that are unavailable elsewhere. Transmission doesn't matter, it will work fine on an automatic(mine is). If the diesel has a few different things that need moved, I bet it'll be an easy job for you. The HB kit is different AFAIK because the trucks have different mounting points for the bed, etc.

https://www.expeditionexchange.com/blaster/indexmain.shtml

Doesn't always, though.

Do a shock absorber test. I bet that's the only thing making it sloppy. Bounce the rear end as hard as you can four or five times and let go. If it bounces once then stops, the shocks are OK. If it bounces two or three times, the shocks are gone and new ones would probably help a lot.

Actually B, the lift comes mainly from the fact that the coils have a higher spring rate than Pathy coils. .50(stock) vs .56 or .58 wire diameter. They're not all that much longer. I've put three or four sets of these in and never had to use a spring compressor until I stuck two rubber spacers on top and beneath mine... The principle behind progressive rate springs is that the top end with the tighter spacing also has a lower spring rate because of the spacing. That makes for a fairly good on-road ride with the added capability of weight-carrying from the rest of the coils below the tightly-spaced coils on top.

Heh, I still have all the pics and whatnot, just never got around to writing it all up. You can still check out the writeup I did on my 2-door 3" BL install here: http://www.damagedreality.com/tmaster.html

Pressing harder on the brake pedal won't help. All you need to do is push the pedal down far enough for the switch to open under the dash.

T-stats work or they don't, why's it make any difference which direction it faces? That's typical IFS, whaddya want? Pathfinders already weigh 4100 + lbs, did you want another helping of weight? Apparently they simply didn't want to change tooling to make millions of trucks (and a different carrier) with the carrier on the other side. It's a sensible money-saver for a big company like Nissan. Are you being picky? I never noticed anything wierd about the steering wheels. There are two types, by the way. A four-spoke and a two-spoke. Millions of other Japanese engines use an interference design. What's so special about them using it in a Pathfinder? Agreed, the centerlink was designed for on-road use only and even then it doesn't last long. I have no holes whatsoever in mine. Do you live in an area where the roads are salted in winter or near the ocean? Millions of other imports use 14x1.25 studs. There are only so many places you can put a starter. At least you don't have to jack the engine up to get it out. Agreed, I think they went the cheap route on the studs. The rear axle will flex just fine if you remove the swaybar. Add longer shocks and it goes even further. Mount up a Nissan brushguard with the winch mount and it apparently works fine. Go figure... I highly doubt Nissan ever envisioned people smacking the spare tire on the ground when they built them... True, but they apparently didn't want to change tooling or frames or bodies to make it longer for easier access. I don't hear many people complain about that one.

I decided that having it on the filter list and being changed to "richard" as Jim set it up was a bit silly. Don't run away with it, now! Post us a pic, man. Let's see the catastrophe.

Agreed, it shouldn't be a problem.

Pathfinders have ten body mounts, just so you know.

I've done it two or three times with no problems.

He'll like it until he tries to parallel park on a hot day, heh. My old Impulse had a welded rear and it was interesting making tight slow turns. Sometimes it made the whole car hop a little.

I'd go with a darker grey metallic. That'd be hot and still hide light dust/dirt. White is OK, but nothing else will match on the doorjams, etc. The tires are about that much at a 4WheelParts store anyway. I'd shop around. The body lift kit picture is a generic pic they must use for all their auctions. Bastards, anyway.

No. The part that doesn't fit has been re-shaped in that picture.

Yes.

On a VG30E, right on top of the air cleaner box. Only thing around there with wires going to it. Look in the Garage under How-To's for the ECU error code info...

Pathy coil between JGC coils...