Simon

It's the rear control arm bushings on all 4 control arms that need replacing. This is common on R50 Pathfinders.

Congrats on the new purchase!

Like you'd know the difference, Adam. People use brake cleaner for all kinds of preparation/cleaning when fabricating or doing any other automotive work. I have used brake cleaner NUMEROUS times to clean greasy metal for welding preparation. The problem isn't the brake cleaner, it's the type of brake cleaner used. If it contains chlorine, it's dangerous. If not, it's fine. Basically, don't comment unless you know what the hell you're talking about. Sorry to hijack the thread....

Depends on the tire. My 31" Revos I use for winter are pretty quiet....only a minor howl at highway speeds. My 33" MT's, however, are LOUD, and howl/rumble at just about any speed.

Seafoam will have the same effects as Synthetic oil used in a motor for the first time. If sludge/deposits are hiding a seal failure, these will bring it to the surface. I had the same issue when I ran synthetic in my motor for the first time....leaking RMS. I can't blame the oil though, it was just bad luck.

Get yourself an O2 sensor socket. Rather than cut the wires before you have the thing broken loose, you can leave the wires in place and try to get it out with the proper tool. I've had good, and bad luck with O2 sensors in the past. On my old truck, I couldn't get one out, no way, no how, and even a mechanic had to cut the bung out, and weld in a new one (made me feel better). On my current truck, I had no problems with just the O2 sensor socket, and a regular ratchet.

You're not paying enough attention. The defrost system is designed to use AC if so equipped.

X2 on the fluid.

Don't just take it off. Running without the belt can cause the compressor to seize, as it does kick on from time to time to keep itself lubricated, not to mention, the defrost works FAR better with AC.

Some folks have had issues with aftermarket water pumps dying prematurely. Some haven't. That said, I wouldn't waste my money on aftermarket parts for this job. For the $40-50 extra it costs for Nissan stuff, it's well worth it to not have to go in there again any time soon.

You're stuck with the defaults until 500 posts, I believe. Oh, and look now, you're no longer a newbie!

We had a problem with Pezzy's 99.5 alarm going off at all hours of the night for no reason, and I pulled the Anti-theft fuse, and it's been fine since. The remotes still work, and the security light still flashes, but the alarm itself is disabled.

There is no locking ring for the sender. 6 (I think) 8mm bolts hold it down.

Ahh....if you're not purchasing, then it makes sense. Be sure to try the truck after only changing the O2 Sensor BEFORE you change the MAF as well, so that you know what fixed the issue.

Why are you buying a new MAF? Try the O2 sensor first, and then clear your codes. If that fixes it, no MAF needed.

I tapped mine to 1/4-20 and used bolts provided in the kit for the puller. Didn't even have to drill out the holes any larger, and had no issues, on mine or Pezzy's trucks.

Out of curiosity, what makes you think there's such a thing as too much flow, even in winter? My cooler is front and center, and I believe our climate here is colder than yours, and I've had no issues with mine whatsoever. The tranny warms up to proper range (torque converter will lock up, shifts are smooth) every bit as quick as it did when I had the stock cooler in the rad.

Check to make sure you're getting fuel pressure. If not, I'd suspect the fuel sending unit on top of the gas tank. I've had mine go, and the symptoms are the same.

Yep, I have the bubble level on my HTC Fuze, and it's pretty accurate as well.

IF your 95 came with the large tire package, the steering stops may have been adjusted to compensate. That said, you may be able to gain a little better radius by turning them in a couple of turns. Just be careful about rubbing the tires on the frame. My LE turns far better than my old SE used to, simply because of this.

Another thing to check would be the strut mounts. Bounce the truck up and down with the hood up, and look for movement where the strut comes through the wheel well.

Could be the wheel bearings, could be the lower ball joint, could be the tie-rod, or it could be the steering rack bushings. It's easier to have someone move the wheel while you're underneath looking for the problem.

My in channels did the same thing. There should be clips that go inside the channel, sort of U-shaped, to allow the window to close properly instead of hitting the plastic. On mine, I used some clear silicone to assist the 2 sided tape in adhering to the channels. Removal is really just a matter of pulling, while holding the rubber channel material in place. I'd try the silicone though, before doing away with the ventvisors.

It's actually a 3.3 block with 3.0 heads and CAMS. That creates a higher compression motor. You'd have to run high octane gas to avoid pinging. My opinion: Get a good running motor, put it on a stand, and change the timing belt on it, along with the water pump, thermostat and tensioner. Also, while on the stand, swap out the manifolds for headers, replacing the studs, then drop the "new" motor in when/if the old one dies. You can grab a motor cheap nowadays (guys get rid of running trucks for part outs for ~300-400) and even if you had to pay someone to swap the motor for you, you'd only be into about 1000-1500 or so.

Didn't see that. But