adamzan

I put my lowers in with a vice and grease, but the uppers I had to cut (again before the splits existed). I'd go for the splits next time for sure!

Stab a screwdriver through the side and use it to turn the filter. Never had to do it on the pathy. But I have on the VW.

Take off the distributor cap, see if rotors turns. If not, suspect timing belt. If it does, check ignition coil and the distributor itself.

I'm so confused on what you just wrote! Come do it for me, ill give you beer!

Maybe, I did the passenger side but I haven't been able to free the pins on the drivers side which sucks. We'll see if that set is okay.

Lmao I have never even owned a set of ramps. Even my stock height X and pathy I can change the oil in 10 minutes without raising it an inch. I don't like to piss around wasting time though. My original 95 I paid a shop to do the studs, it was stock then. They said it was a bitch but they replaced them all and I never had an issue. My 94 came with the 3" body lift (thank fskc because it is a pain to install), and a member here and his mechanic did the studs, I was really sick with crohns at the time so I just watched. And the current 95 I had, well I put a new motor in so I made sure they were all good before installing it, lol.

Body lift.

Looks good!

The easiest way is to weld a nut to them. Turned right out after.

They seemed to work fine for me.

They should fit fine, I know someone who is using those wheels on an X.

Get an angle grinder! You can get them for like 20 dollars on sale at crappy tire or princess auto. Do they have princess auto in quebecixco?

One thing I did on mine was installed 2 gaskets, and place one with the ears facing up (so the parts with the bolt holes are vertical). What happens is the flanges bend ever so slightly so it never seals in the middle. This takes up the space without spacing it out further at the bolt ends.

Those flanges are rotted. The flanges should be like 3/16" thick. I would just replaced the Y pipe and intermediate pipe. They are not that expensive on rock auto. Trust me you will be replacing gasket after gasket and no amount of rtv sealer will hold it together.

If you wanted to use 6.5" rounds you can use those holes that are in the door sheetmetal.

Texas has 85 mph speed limits. Montana has 80. I was there in September. My wd21 was revving about 3500 but it ran that all day no issues. http://www.ghsa.org/state-laws/issues/Speeding-and-Aggressive-Driving

Does it leak now? I still the think pacesetters were worse. Mine came with egr bung not in the right spot, warped y pipe flange, and I ended up welding the y pipe to the header tubes because no clamps could stop the leaks.

You absolutely need to set the timing to the proper spec when warm. If the idle is high and you set it to 15 it will be way retarded. In the manual it states this. As for the ticking could it just be lifter noise the truck had before? Possibly from sitting a while the oil has drained down and they need to be pumped back up (this happens automatically). If the spark plug wire is not sitting properly, its best to get new ones. Maybe take one from that other pathfinder in your pics?

I like that. I want to do something similar.

The only reason the timing belt would jump is if the belt is old, and teeth are breaking off. Or the tension was not set properly.

Lol I have never done that.

Good to know. Probably better off with nissan parts than aftermarket crap anyway.

Some engines have 5 mark pulleys, some have 7. Mine has 7 with some of the marks having factory paint on them. As long as you get it within a few degrees it should be fine. It's probably too cold for it to pre detonate where he is anyway, lol.

Hopefully it resolves the problem. Aftermarket parts these days are junk I've found. Even moog. I was in Nanaimo and tofino in September, great spot you guys have out there! I even brought my pathy with me!

Sounds like the dizzy is off a tooth. I had an issue where the top part of the shaft of the dizzy could rotate while installed in the truck, basically you could force the rotor to turn (with the screw in) and it would change the timing. Took me a while to figure that out. If you put the distributor such that the bolt holding it down is in the middle of the slotted hole, that should put you almost at 15 degrees. A couple degrees in either direction and it will run fine. When you install it, if you put it in while the engine is at TDC, the rotor should be pointing at the # 1 cylinder plug wire port on the cap.