adamzan

For the last few months I've noticed that my truck will start to jerk almost as if the engine is stopping and starting again, but only when in over drive with the torque converter locked, and under 2k rpm. If your light on the gas it will be ok but as soon as you want to accelerate it will do this unless you make it kick out of the torque coverter lock. On the highway whent it's revving at 2400 to 3000 depending on how fast I go it is perfectly fine. The trans doesn't slip or anything so I'm really confused on what this could be. Gas mileage seems alright as well. But it has felt "down on power" lately. And you guys know what I mean since we only have 153 hp... Drove it to toronto and back last weekend and it didn't do it at all on the highway, only when below 2k rpm it seems. Only starting to do something about it now as I haven't really been driving it that much since the middle of summer.

Lighter steering feel? Man do you have twigs for arms? I've driven chevy, ford, dodge, and nissan trucks and I don't even notice a difference going from one to another, well maybe the ford, as it was leaking PS fluid.

You know you can adjust it. Look in the fsm

The daytime running module is on the left side of the battery, kinda inside the fender. Remove the battery and you'll see it.

Have fun getting the pitman arm off if you need to. Mine has quite a bit of play as well when you're going straight. Like 1.5 inches I'm guessing. Though my truck has 180k, so is that expected or what.

It's actually supposed to be black, just faded over the years.

Wonder if that could be installed on one our NA wd21s

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=how+a+torque+converter+works

My 93 came with a nissan carphone

I would suggest you leave your truck as it is.

I was looking around at coolers last week, and the guy in the shop said to me "I could sell you the biggest cooler I have but to be fair you only really need an 18-24k and that is if you're hauling big loads". I don't know if he's right but he said defintely remove the stock cooler. Which I know is right. I should really do a gauge too but that is a lot of work right now in these frigid temps.

I think I need to change my tstat too. You have to drive around for well over an hour to get really really hot heat. Otherwise you have a choice, defrosted windows, OR warm feet. The mix setting will not warm your feet and the fog starts to encroach around the windshield

If the engine runs well don't fsck with it.

I've had mine at 160 km/h and it felt perfectly fine. This was just after I had my whole steering/suspension replaced and alignment done. Also it was revving just below 4k with the 31's. With 235 75 15 tires the brakes work pretty damn good at highway speeds actually.

I'm pretty sure he's stated around here that he has 31s

I would say check the wiring to your MAF sensor, and clean the sensor itself. Also check the o2 sensor, cylinder head temp sensor. Did you read the sticky in the garage on how to read the codes? Even if the CEL isn't on but it has been before the code will still be there unless you removed it.

Crap. I meant the abs valve. Sorry!

Throttle position sensor maybe?

Yeah this is the "code" for dead alternator. If you have an AT it will be brake, battery, and AT TEMP lights.

Try bleeding the proportioning valve again, if you didn't already do it a couple times. Its a bitch to bleed.

try hitting the blower motor, its under the dash on the passenger side, you'll see it. just give it a few hits with your hand. If it does come on then something is keeping it from turning or the motor is dying. I managed to fix mine by cleaning the brushes though.

I wonder if the Quebec version says LE Pathfinder

The LE pathfinders have that. I like it. And the avatar is awesome. To hell with the gray area.

It happens on wd21s often as well, mine included.

What brand of filter do you use. I have a purolator premium plus on right now but I usually use motomaster (Canadian tire house brand)