adamzan

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/RE4R01A.html

Will they fit a 2000 r50? If you don't ruin them taking them off I might want them. Also mine did the same to the rear window. My solution was to get a bit more double sided tape and attach the one side that didn't come with tape, now my windows work perfectly.

235 75 15 is my stock size but run 31" AT's in the summer. Also have 2 other pathy's that came with 31"s

96-99 r50s came with 15 inch rims. 99.5+ can only take 16's unless you wanna grind part of the caliper off.

Any place that sells car stereos will have the proper adapter. Don't just hack up the wiring. You've already learned that lesson once, haven't you?

Here is the FSM version of the Coolant temp sensor specs.

Just hit 295,000 the other day. Having some issues but still mechanically strong.

Why is everyone so cheap just buy new ones lol.

Right hand closest to the firewall. But I will note that the passenger side ones were stripped on the threads that the nuts that hold the manifolds go.

I remember when I first got my truck there was a piece of cardboard between the exhaust and a crossmember, maybe you should put something in between there. But not cardboard!

Ok I changed my thermostat today, WOW what a difference. If your heat isn't as good as it used to be, like mine was, change it. I put a 170 degree motorad one in now my heat is so hot it hurts to hold your hand at the vents.

I took mine to a place called autotrendz. A bit pricey at 200 dollars, but they did an awesome job. Yours will probably be cheaper since my unit was an alarm and remote starter combo and they had to remove an old one that a PO had but didn't work. Autotrendz 135 Iber Road Stittsville, ON K2S 1E7 (613) 836-9238

To be honest if you want it done right take it somewhere because installing one of these things is a PITA especially with a factory alarm...Find the best auto electrics place in town and take it there.

If you really have to have one different tire I would put the mismatched pair on the front and keep the matching pair on the rear because it is hard on the rear diff. Not every 31 is exactly the same size.

That's because you suck.

I have three wd21s (also a parts path but thats gone) and all buy one had high mileage and no issues with the tcase. The only problem I've had with mine (the gray one you've seen it) is that the shifter linkage is really stiff. Probably because someone took off the rubber boots that go over the pivot points that are supposed to be greased.

It's definitely not the TC. The rpms don't move at all when it does it and the TC is locked.

I never said it was dark brown...

My original ones are still going strong. Though i don't open the hatch that much anyways.

Just to let everyone know, I have solved the issue finally! The switch that cancels the cruise failed. I removed the plug and tested the switch for continuity...There was none. So I jumped the plug with a piece of wire. Took her for a drive down an empty road and voila, cruise! I feel so dumb for not checking it before...But whatever. Also, when I went to cancel it I hit the brakes out of habit, and it cancelled! According to the wiring diagram, the brake light switch sends a signal to the cruise computer as a failsafe shut off. I'm gonna get a new switch but at least it works for now. But the vacuum hose must have a leak because the speed slooowly creeps down.

Well the tranny fluid and filter were done last weekend by a nissan tech and he said it looked normal in the pan, though the fluid was a little dark. This has been happening for a while before that anyway. My engine doesn't burn any oil and my plugs were a brownish color, apparently what it's supposed to be. Will do that. Will take it to my buddys shop so I don't have to lay in the snow. I'm gonna start with a dizzy cap and rotor, thing is that one of the heads of the screws is stripped so I can't get it off... I know, bad habit

For the last few months I've noticed that my truck will start to jerk almost as if the engine is stopping and starting again, but only when in over drive with the torque converter locked, and under 2k rpm. If your light on the gas it will be ok but as soon as you want to accelerate it will do this unless you make it kick out of the torque coverter lock. On the highway whent it's revving at 2400 to 3000 depending on how fast I go it is perfectly fine. The trans doesn't slip or anything so I'm really confused on what this could be. Gas mileage seems alright as well. But it has felt "down on power" lately. And you guys know what I mean since we only have 153 hp... Drove it to toronto and back last weekend and it didn't do it at all on the highway, only when below 2k rpm it seems. Only starting to do something about it now as I haven't really been driving it that much since the middle of summer.

Lighter steering feel? Man do you have twigs for arms? I've driven chevy, ford, dodge, and nissan trucks and I don't even notice a difference going from one to another, well maybe the ford, as it was leaking PS fluid.

You know you can adjust it. Look in the fsm