adamzan

I don't believe they are adjustable. What problem are you having?

Here the emissions used to be an idle test and a 40kmh on a dyno...Now they've gone to a scan test for obd2 and for the older ones they do a 2 speed idle test, at idle and 2500 rpms...My old truck always came close to failing but this new to me 94 passes with flying colors.

This happened on my old truck, while I didn't see it myself, it is what the shop told me...And a new cat allowed me to pass my e-test and go on my cross america road trip . I had been having problems with misfiring and running rich...I was just a dumb kid back then who was too dumb to know cars needed tune ups lol

Yes they should fit, MM is the mile marker hubs. Make sure you grab the stuff behind the snap ring too.

Looks great, don't crank up the front end too high or you'll have a hard time aligning it.

That looks ok to me, I'd just throw the new parts on and call it a day.

Hopefully I am one of the other buddies dennis referred to lol. But I am running the amsoil fluid and the shifts are way too mushy when it's hot. It almost slides into gear.

Agreed. I've taken a few tanks out, including the one in my current truck and none had anything in the bottom. The "sock" or whatever it is on the pump was fairly clean on mine as well, there was actually a few dog hairs on it, how ever that got in there I don't know. But there was no sediment in the tank at all and by the looks of the bolts and build up on the edges, that tank was never pulled before. I will be changing my fuel filter soon and will post pics.

That front swaybar bushing is worn, there should not be a gap there like there is in the picture. Also, tie rods will not clunk unless they are REALLY bad, like on the verge of failure. If the wheel is loose at 9 and 3 and 6 and 12 check your wheel bearings. To check the ball joints put a prybar under the tire and try to lift up on it. I think your problem is bushings though.

It just means you probably won't pass emissions. If you care about having the light on, fix it, but it won't hurt anything.

I used to do donuts in 4wd on ice all the time, the center of teh truck becomes the pivot and you get dizzy real fast lol

Did you unhook and vacuum lines or the hoses at the intake? If it still has good power I doubt it is the timing.

I have had no issues with the bosch sensor in mine I got it at advance auto parts while I was in florida, it was half the price there, compared to here in Ottawa.

Easy, just change the sensor, not hard, just need a 22mm wrench.

There are 6 10mm bolts that hold the skid plate on, remove them and it will come off. After that you'll see 2 small hoses running to the radiator from some hardlines near the oil pan. There is a good change you just need to change or re attach one of those rubber hoses.

You might be able to free it by using a small torch, some pb blaster and a hammer. Other than that either a dealer or the JY is your best bet.

Look in the garage section there is a how to for checking the computer codes. Even if the light isn't on it will still have a code.

If the bearings still spin smooth, just tighten it til there is no play. Dont go past that though.

Check your throttle position sensor?

Mine does that too, and when you press the brakes. I think it has to do with the trailer wiring.

If you get some fans out of a maxima or altima they are almost a direct drop in other than the wiring Ive heard.

Here engines at the u pull yard are only 89.99! Very tempted to grab a vg33. But I've mainly seen the 3.5L r50s.

Sounds to me like a new or used trans is in order.

I have a cheap cardone shaft that will work fine at stock height but with my suspension lift causes a vibration that wasn't there before I put it in. Good thing I kept the stock ones.

There are aftermarket headlights for the wd21 that are plastic, and have a clear front with the beam pattern on the back, like the newer cars with halogen lights. You can also swap to hardbodie square lights, but you need to get a hardbody grille and corner lights.