KovemaN

If I can fit them in a small USPS flat rate box it's $12. I went to the metal supply shop yesterday to pick up some stock. These will be done by the middle of March. If you guys don't mind cutting off or flattening the flared section on the bottom of the original bracket I will build them like the one in the picture in the first post. They could be done much quicker if that is the case. Otherwise there will be more pieces and a few more welding steps.

Here are the rough dimensions for a WD21 panhard drop bracket. The measurements were taken from the Calmini bracket. I will be making one for myself and one for Beastpath within the next few weeks. I will probably just go ahead and make 3 or 4. I was planning on selling them for $40-50.

RustyButt: The only place to disconnect the antenna is at the stereo.

Currently switching mine to the windshield only. I have broken my fender antenna too many times.

I usually cut a slit in the rubber boot where the wiring harness comes through the firewall and then pull the wire under the dash.

The body mounts on the 4wd D21 are about 1.5" taller than the 2wd D21 and the WD21. A 3" BL on a 4wd D21 is the equivalent of a 4.5" BL on a WD21.

HERE is what you need.

I have one I'll let go for $100 + shipping. I had it on my old D21.

I have seen the VH45 in a WD21 swap and I would strongly recommend against anything like it. You're looking at having to build new frame rails, relocate the firewall and swap out the entire harness and fuel pump. That is after you get all of the drivetrain stuff to mount up which is an adventure in itself. I would personally like to have the VG33ER. Shaping or cutting the hood is much easier than building a new frame.

I'm pretty sure that ALL of the D21/WD21 DRUM h233s had the thrust block. The thrust block from the ARB cannot be shorter than the stock unit or the preload would be off. You could get lucky, but I would just grind off 1/8" (I said 1/4" before, but 1/8 will be sufficient) from each shaft and not worry about the block unless you are pulling the diff apart. All three drum third members that I have taken apart had the thrust block. One open from an '87, one lsd '91 and one was an open from a '91. The only third member that I have disassembled from a disc equipped vehicle did not have a thrust block.

When you swap in the disc axles don't forget you will need to remove the thrust block from the inside of your carrier. If you don't feel like ripping into it you can get away with grinding down the ends of the axle about 1/4" on each side. The disc axles don't need the thrust block for preload since they have two bearings on the outer end of the shaft.

I really like the Felpro gasket for this application. It should be nearly identical to OEM and it might be cheaper at your local auto parts store. I also like the copper RTV, but the good metal gaskets shouldn't need it. Paper exhaust gaskets are crap.

I have at least one spare stock CL if you are interested. I could ship it straight to Grassroots if we worked something out.

The CVs are not all interchangeable. The older 27 spline CVs bolted to the front diff with 6 bolts in a 3x2 pattern. The newer 28 spline CVs are attached by 5 bolts in a 5x1 pattern. Sometime after 1995 Nissan went back to the 3x2 pattern and 28 splines.

What would be the most important attribute for off-road abuse? I am suspecting that heat caused by slippage would be the first culprit. In that respect, a ceramic clutch sounds like a great idea. Even if a clutch can lock up 400lbs of torque that doesn't mean that it can operate smoothly when revved and slowly released while crawling up an obstacle. In that situation, control trumps brute clamping force. I would think that a stock-ish pressure plate with an upgraded friction disc would be ideal. Not so much pressure that it gets grippy, but durable enough for torturing it while crawling. Where did you get that puck Slash? PS. - The Centerforce stage 2 clutch that I put in my D21 immediately popped my slave cylinder so replace it while you're in there.

I picked up a case of Redline on ebay for around $100.

For all of us SE owners that have ditched the factory adjustable shocks, we could run some rock lights off of that circuit. I'm sure I can figure out the current draw for each shock. It seems like it should be enough to power some LEDs. I know the thought had popped into my head before, but I failed to write it down. I you still have the original shocks you could cut off the pigtail to wire into the lights.

You can lay it down and it won't leak.

Say it with me: "Alcohol impairs your judgement!"

I heard that the Hella's are hella bright.

Open the hatch and remove the access panel on the side. There are three nuts holding the whole assembly in place.

The sleeve is only going to fail after the bushing. I had to mess around with my replacement cups (bearing cups) to get the right thickness behind them. Washers were too thick. I ended up using a thin shim welded under the cup. The top and bottom pics are a washer that was ground down. The middle is the thinner shim that I didn't have to grind.

My keyboard has a key dedicated to this question. I just type it in and hit the Backspace key until the question is gone. Too bad there isn't an A-hole key to remove my comments.

1991 SE - 231,000 Miles

If he did the other side with joints it looks like the weak point would be shifted back to the IA or the steering box.