KovemaN

I have this one ^^^^ and I've been using it for about two months. It does suck, but it holds my cell phone perfectly. It actually work better than a lot of those slide out in-dash cup holders, but it blocks the stereo.

I was originally going to call out the single post OP for being a cory74700 imposter. Post 3 almost cemented that position, but then I kept reading only to find out it was our own MY1PATH. You could have dragged this one out a little more for fun.

I know for a fact that the gas tank skid can be doubled up and bolted in place with no modifications. I would assume the same would apply for the front skid. The transfer skid might be too thick and the mounting in an inopportune location.

I also use the main harness boot to pass power through to the cab. The wire comes out nicely in the passenger kick panel. After that I ran the power cable through the rocker panel after covering the wire with a section of split loom. To bring it back out of the rocker there is a grommet in the body near the outside of the rear seats. I drilled a hole in the body back a little further and used the grommet access to help fish the wire up and out. This worked for 4ga so it should work for 8. The split loom made it stiff enough and slick enough to push through the rocker panel.

You'll need to look at the image full size to see where it's been (poorly) edited.

I'm officially calling Shenanigans. Get your brooms. Being a stickler for numbers has brought me back to this retarded thread one too many times. I went over everything and there are some glaring discrepancies. Here is the first: http://www.hdforums.com/forum/blowers-turbos-nitrous-oxide/663959-120r-turbo.html Look familiar? That's the exact same image that Cory posted as "proof" that his VG30i can put down 190hp to the wheels. If you look closely at "his" other dyno sheet, you will notice that the date has been altered to read "5/24/2012" while the file path clearly shows that the run was actually on 05/21/2010. He also altered a few other places on the image. Aside from the pictures he states in one post that he was at 2600 RPM in 5th @75 MPH (post #24) which could be correct depending on a few factors, but he later states that he was running 1000-1100 RPM @75 in 5th and 2600 RPM in 4th (Post #68). His gear ratios that he listed for the transmission were in line with stock gearing, but he stated that he had custom gears cut @ 2.42:1. In order to achieve 1000-1100 RPM @ 75MPH with stock transmission gearing you would need to have 1.5:1 gears. I can just see the R&P set now. 16 tooth pinion with a 24 tooth ring gear Let's just admit that this was a great troll job and leave it at that. Hell, this guy puts Tungsten to shame Mods: Please honor Cory's request and delete him.

You forgot about the other guy that likes to race his on the street by himself. http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/23923-wiredwrong/?hl=wiredwrong

I've been looking into this. I haven't figured out the quick release hinges. For the wiring you could use an ATX computer power supply extender. Cut it in half, use two conductors for each of the window motor leads and the rest for mirrors and locks. They are super cheap (less than $3) and will give you 20-24 pins to work with. These also work great for standardizing your car stereo wiring across makes. The next owner will probably hate you though if they have to work on the stereo.

I like my 33x12.50s. They wheel great and I only get a little rubbing at full stuff in the rear, but I don't have any bump stops at all. Installing 4.6 gears in place of the 4.3s made a noticeable difference.

The max recommended width for 33x10.5 is 9". You don't want to look like those guys that spend big bucks on rims and didn't bother to wrap them with the correct rubber. You either need to go with a wider tire or find a new home for your wheels. Another option would be 32x11.5. They should stuff just fine and they will perform better on road.

The t-case will take GL-4 or ATF. Manual trans guys usually use GL-4 in the rare case of a seal failure between the two.

Heated mirrors aren't that big of a deal around Phoenix, but I have used them when I head out to snow country. The heated seats are pretty nice when it's below 50* in the morning. They are not so nice when the dog switches them on and it's 110*

I never said they weren't for wheeling, but I do believe that when Nissan updated the interior they were trying to position the Pathfinder more in the luxury market segment. I'm a firm believer in the off road capabilities of all WD21s. I've put my '95 through hell and I still get to have heated seats/mirrors and a 7" in dash navigation system.

I don't think Nissan ever took wheeling into account when building the 93.5+ WD21s. There had to either be a cost or supply issue at stake. Personally, I prefer the I-beams over the tube lowers. The kind of hit it takes to break the I-beam is pretty extreme whereas the tube lowers are easily bent with only minimal contact. Trust me. I'm the PO from the OP's post. When I rebuild my rear suspension I'll follow GrandpaX's route and build extended uppers. I've got 2-3/8" greasable poly bushings for the frame side and 2-3/8" flex joints for the axle. That should provide reasonable road manners with decent longevity. Flexing out the factory bushings is what really kills them.

You would need custom inner shafts. This axle was built by "The King" for his Nissan powered rock buggy. Here is the build thread over on Rugged Rocks. http://forum.ruggedrocksoffroad.com/index.php/topic,1640.0.html

It's been done. The axle was flipped and had D44 inners welded on. It was on a buggy so the pumpkin was left in the center.

That's SteeevO's from Rugged Rocks. It's currently being rebuilt.

The metal plate is supposed to sit on a plastic ramp that is bolted to the body. The rubber bumpers should be pushing against the latch plate on the gate. They shouldn't touch the bumper.

$8 for title $27.50 for emissions $50 for two years registration

Yeppers. It can be a biatch, but I've never had a Pathy fail for anything other than a gas cap or loose evap line.

PB Blaster or Kroil are good for getting things un-stuck, but you shouldn't have too much trouble with the bolts.

I just swapped a starter on a '94 with an auto trans yesterday. No body lift and I didn't pull the filter. It's tight, but doable. You can unbolt the motor assembly from the gear drive and that will cut the size of the starter in half.

Yes.

I thought you unibody guys could mount them under the rear seats? I could never get a 48" hi-lift to fit there in my WD21.