KovemaN

I'm putting my mud tires on. The trail to Horsethief Basin will not defeat me this time. I was up there two years ago and had to turn around half way in because the ruts were too deep and my 32" A/Ts were too warn.

That's the spot I was thinking of. If there is anyone that can't get a CB in time, I have a pair of handheld units that I will be bringing so we won't have to have a relay operator between FRS/GMRS and CB. After the storms this weekend the trail should be less dusty than usual.

5 miles - 8 to 25 minutes depending on the surrounding stupidity

Both sets are 28 spline which should be correct for a '91. Sending you a PM.

I have a set of MMs for $40 if you want them. I also have a spare set of Warn hubs, but I'll need to check their condition before I give you a price.

It's a ton of work. I've seen THIS truck in person and the changes to the frame rails and firewall are pretty drastic.

I was planning on renting a cabin from Bear Creek. HERE is a directory for everything in CK.

Any chance that you would move it to the 24th? I'm already planning on heading up that weekend, but I'm not sure about making the trip twice in two weeks.

The King

I think he was referring to his own reading comprehension

Welcome. Shoot me a PM with what you are looking to spend. I am thinking about selling my '95.

Linky

I am aware of that problem on nearly every vehicle driven in places where they salt the roads. Not too much of that going on here in AZ. Paint sure takes a beating though.

Table Mesa - Lower Terminator

I'll vote for the first one to put a frame under the caR50.

I could use two. Having voltage, oil pressure and coolant temp would be nice.

KovemaN:

No. You smack the forward facing part of the arm. The shock helps to loosen arm especially when there is tension on it from the puller.

I have the puller from Harbor Freight (#1752) and it has pulled three Nissan pitmans for me with no problem. Her are the steps I take. 1. Soak overnight with PB Blaster or your favorite penetrating lubricant. 2. Loosen the sector shaft nut, but don't remove it completely. 3. Keep the puller aligned with the arm while tightening. Maintain as much surface contact as possible while keeping it even on both sides of the arm. 4. Tighten gradually and hit the end of the arm with a BFH. 5. Repeat until the arm pops.

I have a 1997 2wd king cab D21 and that setup should work. The setup is nearly identical to the Pathfinder. If you have headers you will want to make a heat shield though. The cable routes fairly close to the exhaust and it will melt if not protected.

Gotta love the Z.A.V.

The member map is showing 8 in AZ, but I have two Pathfinders so does that make it 9? 9 1/2 if you count all the spare crap I have.

The plastic cutting boards are usually made of textured HDPE. Just like the large food prep surfaces in restaurants and fast food places. Sometimes it's impregnated with an antimicrobial agent for obvious reasons. I believe that HDPE is FDA certified while UHMW is not.

When we meet up for the sway bar you can have a look at my skid plates. I have the AC front skid and diff skid, custom oil pan skid and I have two stock gas tank skids bolted into the factory mounting spot. My '91 also has the stock t-case skid, but my '95 does not. I suppose it could have been removed or rattled loose somewhere along the line. It should be a pretty easy find at the JY along with the extra tank skid. If I were going to do a custom one I would probably go with HDPE for weight and ease of cutting. I have a plasma cutter though so cutting out a new steel one wouldn't be too bad.