KovemaN

Ummm, maybe you should have waited until you woke up to post :coffee!: I like being able to completely remove the glass. It's almost like having a convertible

If you've already buggered it up you can weld in a 1/2" socket extension into the plug and then back it out with a breaker. I had to do this the last time I changed transmission juice.

You will need to swap the front diff as well if you go to 4.6s.

Two words: Scrap - Practice

The mileage difference is only a trick. If you don't change the speedo gear you will actually be going faster and farther than your instruments are reading. If you change the actual gearing you can get back to more normal readings. I don't think a gear change will actually give you better mileage since the engine has to do the same amount of work either way. The bigger/heavier tires will drop your mileage some.

Here is what happens to a Silverado on a tough trail. At this point the truck is completely disabled. Smashed cross member and broken tailshaft = ATF all over the trail and an hour of tugging to get the heap out of the way. My Pathfinder made it over the same obstacle relatively easily. My Pathy in action.

You definitely don't want to get your feet wet when you are welding Kidding aside, I bought a used Lincoln 155 amp for $250 and I couldn't be happier. It's a 230 volt, but it came with a 40' extension cable so I can plug it into my dryer outlet. I used to have a 120v Lincoln. That was nice since I could plug it in anywhere that had a 20 amp circuit. If you end up liking welding which is highly likely, you will really want the 230 volt unit. Close. The voltage is the rated voltage which is usually around 20-25v DC. With the 230v welder I have noticed that the arc is much more stable thus making the welding easier and cleaner. It also has a higher duty cycle. Since most welders have similar output voltages the only way to get more penetration is to go with more amps.

The stock rims aren't neutral. 4" BS on an 8" wide wheel gives a neutral or 0 offset. 3.75" BS on an 8" wide wheel will give you a negative (towards the outside) 12mm offset. I believe the legos had a positive offset and therefore the centerline of the wheel is biased towards the inside of the vehicle. If you look on the inside of one of the legos there will be a number cast into the wheel and that is the offset. I believe it's 20 or 25mm. Either way, 4" or 3.75" backspacing is fine.

Not really easy. You have to make sleeves for the bushings. I used 1" diameter nylon rod, cut them to length and drilled them big enough for the bolts.

Those certainly are Ranchos. Nice find.

Here is my '97 D21. There is hardly any bulge in the fenders or the bed. By that logic my gutless 2wd D21 should have massive fenders

The 2wd D21 fender will bolt up, but the wheel bulge won't match the rear bulge on the WD21. The 4wd/WD21 fender swap is pretty common among the low-rider crowd since you can tuck the big wheels in there a little easier.

The 4wd fenders definitely stick out more. Trust me, I own 4 Nissan trucks.

Ditch the IFS and put a D44 or D60 up front and put longer arms on the rear. The rear Nissan axle and t-case are strong enough for 35s. Oh yeah, welcome to the site.

47850-92G00 is the ABS module.

There is a magnetic fluid in the shocks and when you switch it to "Sport" the viscosity of the fluid is increased making the shock stiffer like Nige said.

MY1PATH - I have a spare set of cams from my old VG30i. From what I have been able to gather, they should be identical to the VG30e cams. If that's the case, would you recommend the Schneider 256h grind for those? I'm asking since I know how much research you did for your cams.

I have killed a Nissan clutch in my 2wd D21 with the KA24E. It was the original Exedy branded stock clutch and one of the springs in the clutch plate broke and lodged in the fingers of the pressure plate. That is my only Nissan clutch failure and I have driven a lot of them.

Rough Country UCAs - Directly from RC OR used UCAs - $100-150 Crank torsion bars - Free JGC coils and longer shocks in the rear - $100 Idler arm brace ($20-50) and upgraded center link (hoohaa) ($229) OR Calmini HD steering upgrade ($650)

Regearing and gear setup alone can end up running you over $800. H233b gears are ridiculously expensive and it will cost you at least a couple hundred dollars to get front and rear gears setup by a professional. Most SAS builds that I have followed ended up running $1500-2000 and take anywhere from a month to forever to complete.

Why don't you pick up a 3" lift and sell the 2" after the swap? You're going to spend a bit on the longer hardware and pucks anyway. I'm sure there would be plenty of takers if you decided to go that route. You should be able to get $100 for it.

That makes sense. I guess they would be stronger with shorter legs.

Why not cut or hammer the pinch seam?

Different from what? Didn't you just get this truck?

There are no sensors after the cat so the computer won't know if it's bad or not. It shouldn't cost you too much to get a hi-flow cat installed. Make sure to recycle the old one. It could net you $75-100 at a recycler.