KovemaN

Not really easy. You have to make sleeves for the bushings. I used 1" diameter nylon rod, cut them to length and drilled them big enough for the bolts.

Those certainly are Ranchos. Nice find.

Those stripes come off easily with some acetone.

Here is my '97 D21. There is hardly any bulge in the fenders or the bed. By that logic my gutless 2wd D21 should have massive fenders

The 2wd D21 fender will bolt up, but the wheel bulge won't match the rear bulge on the WD21. The 4wd/WD21 fender swap is pretty common among the low-rider crowd since you can tuck the big wheels in there a little easier.

The 4wd fenders definitely stick out more. Trust me, I own 4 Nissan trucks.

Ditch the IFS and put a D44 or D60 up front and put longer arms on the rear. The rear Nissan axle and t-case are strong enough for 35s. Oh yeah, welcome to the site.

47850-92G00 is the ABS module.

There is a magnetic fluid in the shocks and when you switch it to "Sport" the viscosity of the fluid is increased making the shock stiffer like Nige said.

MY1PATH - I have a spare set of cams from my old VG30i. From what I have been able to gather, they should be identical to the VG30e cams. If that's the case, would you recommend the Schneider 256h grind for those? I'm asking since I know how much research you did for your cams.

That truck is definitely IFS and those tires would rub like mad.

I have killed a Nissan clutch in my 2wd D21 with the KA24E. It was the original Exedy branded stock clutch and one of the springs in the clutch plate broke and lodged in the fingers of the pressure plate. That is my only Nissan clutch failure and I have driven a lot of them.

Rough Country UCAs - Directly from RC OR used UCAs - $100-150 Crank torsion bars - Free JGC coils and longer shocks in the rear - $100 Idler arm brace ($20-50) and upgraded center link (hoohaa) ($229) OR Calmini HD steering upgrade ($650)

Regearing and gear setup alone can end up running you over $800. H233b gears are ridiculously expensive and it will cost you at least a couple hundred dollars to get front and rear gears setup by a professional. Most SAS builds that I have followed ended up running $1500-2000 and take anywhere from a month to forever to complete.

Why don't you pick up a 3" lift and sell the 2" after the swap? You're going to spend a bit on the longer hardware and pucks anyway. I'm sure there would be plenty of takers if you decided to go that route. You should be able to get $100 for it.

That makes sense. I guess they would be stronger with shorter legs.

Why not cut or hammer the pinch seam?

Different from what? Didn't you just get this truck?

There are no sensors after the cat so the computer won't know if it's bad or not. It shouldn't cost you too much to get a hi-flow cat installed. Make sure to recycle the old one. It could net you $75-100 at a recycler.

Judging by the pics I would think that they would rip off at the frame before bending. I like the idea of them being removable, but I would have welded the frame side tubes to some plate, gusset the tube to the plate and then weld the plate to the frame. This is how I wanted to make mine removable, but I like the tube mounts better now that I have seen it done.

Thanks Bonez. I just pulled up the info I had handy. I'm pretty sure it's 59". If you went with a new axle you're adding a lot of unnecessary fab work to keep the 5-link or go with a 4-link triangulated. RuggedRocksOffRoad.com is also a good place to shop for parts. Oh yeah, Welcome to NPORA.

You need to find something like this little rock garden I ran across this weekend. I am pretty sure I would have destroyed my steering if it were still stock.

The Pathfinder is a steal compared to 4runner in similar condition and it should be just as capable and reliable. You would be well served to keep the h233b in the rear and swap in a d44 up front. You can get a Nissan h233b with disc brakes and a decent LSD or you can throw in a Lock Right, Detroit or ARB if you need a real locker. The most popular axle for the front would be from a 80-85 Jeep Grand Wagoneer. Make sure to grab one that does not have the vacuum disconnect. The cheapest route for gears would be to find a third member with 4.9 gears from a 00-02 Xterra or Frontier. You will only need to swap the side gears and spider gears to make it work with the older axle shafts (31 spline). If you need deeper gearing 5.14-5.88s for the h233b can be had for around $450-500. Matching gears for the d44 should be around $200.

Shouldn't that be NEWBraska? Welcome to Pathfinder land!

Put a wood block between the arm and the bumpstop before you drop the truck back on the ground after removing the t-bars. It will make moving it much easier.