KovemaN

Fairly common just as long as you're not looking for aftermarket wheel locks. On that note, I guess you could use an open ended lug nut if you had to for the anchor bolt.

The bolts that came with my Thorleys are grade 10.8 and 30mm in length. I know this because my truck is still torn apart awaiting some power steering lines from some guy in Cali

The flange on the cat should bolt up to the gibson system. I was just giving you a heads up on the rusty converter bolt issue. Hopefully they will come right out for you.

In order of ease: 1 - Steering stops. They are curved and may hit lock under compression when not locked on flat ground. The plastic covers are probably worn off. Solution - apply grease to the stops and test. If that fixes the creak, replace the plastic covers or keep them greased. If the creak doesn't go away proceed to step 2. 2 - Cross-member bolts. 4 bolts hold the front differential cross-member to the frame. They will develop a creak over time in both the 2wd and 4wd WD21 Pathfinders and D21 pickups. Spray some lube on the cross-member and tighten down the 4 bolts. If you still have a creak proceed to step 3. 3 - Compression rod bushings. There is a short rod going from the rear of the lower control arm to the frame. The rubber bushings wear out over time and the rod begins to rub the frame. Spray with lube and if the squeak stops it's time to replace them.

LSD or locker? Mine gives me some strange thuds when backing out of the driveway cold. I have just attributed it to the LSD action. I seriously need to check the diff juice.

I ordered the Bandit4x4 bushings this morning and already got a tracking number. It's $55/set + $12 for shipping or $95 for two sets. They also make bushings for stock idler arms. The products look good and I can't wait to get the bushings installed.

I was told that it was to compensate for lift since the mounting points on the LCAs is lower than stock when lifted. I can see that being the case, but I am surprised that it's the default. It may also be to enhance the effect of the sway bar. Maybe you should call ES

Calmini service blows and you can't trust a word they say. I had a used steering kit lined up, but it didn't have the pitman arm since the PO used that for his SAS. I called Calmini, told them the deal and they gave me a price on the arm. Great! I paid the guy, got the kit and called Calmini again to order the arm. This time they tell me that they don't sell individual parts and they have no idea who I talked to when I called. This was after they took my credit card info for the arm. I don't know what's up with that company, but be prepared to get the run-around if you are trying to get customer service. In the end I bought another used kit with trashed idler arm bushings just to get the pitman. I am now going to rebuild that kit with bushings from Bandit4x4 and have a local fabrication shop build up a pitman arm from a stock arm. This may not be everyone's experience with them, but I wouldn't take my chances unless they have something you just can't live without.

Try this one for $15.90 shipped. Ebay Pitman Arm I bought one for another project. I am pretty sure that the spline count and taper are the same as the 92.5+ Pathfinder. I can take some measurements, count the splines and compare the drop to my '95 tonight if you want.

I would soak the bolts with some kind of penetrating lube like PB Blaster. Smack them with a hammer a few times and soak them some more. Then try to remove them. If they are stuck the heads will break off anyway. You might get lucky and coax them out without breaking. Once you have the entire cat out you can grind the broken stud flat with the flange and then drill it out. That's your only option if you want to keep the original cat. You should be able to get a direct fit replacement for a decent price on ebay. The Magnaflow part number is 22760 and should be under $100.

I don't think there is an actual back pressure spec. Too much will not allow the engine to rev and too little will lower the engine's ability to produce adequate torque at low revs. I believe that the Magnaflow converter has flow characteristics similar to stock and that the part on the downpipe is a resonator and not an actual converter. The setup you listed sounds good except for the exit. I would keep it as far back as possible to prevent CO from entering the cab.

I just meant between the header and the hoses. Sure wouldn't want to cover up some shiny $400 headers.

I haven't heard of that happening to anyone. I have used this same kit with both Thorleys and Pacesetters and the hoses have never showed any signs of heat damage. A heat shield probably wouldn't hurt though.

Aren't you going to replace your rear main seal? If there ever was a time this is it and yours is already leaking. You need to press the bearing off of the sleeve. I think I just rested the outside of the release bearing on the jaws of my vise and used a socket to drive the sleeve out. I would suggest wood blocks, but you don't have those either

I would keep the transfer case. You will save a bunch of work and a fair amount of money and you will still have 2-low. If you decide to drop the t-case you would be best off pulling a tranny and driveshaft from a 2wd truck. Otherwise you will have to replace the extension housing, output shaft, and driveshaft. Probably the transmission mount too. 2wd trucks had the two piece drive shaft so you would have to add a center bearing as well. One of you obstacles will also be the fact that your truck is a 1988. Many parts changed after '89 and I am sure you will run into some of them.

31x10.5-15" tires fit nicely on those wheels. They shouldn't rub and there are a lot of different makes/models to choose from. I personally prefer BFG A/Ts. You should be able to find a decent used set locally so long as mounting and balancing doesn't kill the deal. If you happen to find a wheel/tire combo for a good price the wheels are 6 lug on 5.5"(139.7mm) and you will need at least a 4" center bore to clear the hubs. Backspacing should be no more than 4" for a rub-free fit.

I just ordered a bunch of crap for next to nothing prices. Thanks for the heads up!

Why is everyone so scared of something hitting the filter up there? It's still at least a foot away from the tire. Filters are not easy to puncture either. Getting wrapped up in a ball of barbed wire might be an issue, but I think the filter could withstand that as well. The best part about that location is oil change time. Zero mess.

Trans-Dapt or Perma-Cool. Like Precise1 mentioned they are all basically the same. If you wait for the header install the job will be much easier. The only real issue is figuring out where to put the filter. I put mine up under the fender behind the headlight. My1path mounted his on a frame crossmember. I would try to avoid mounting it in the engine compartment since you will still make a mess with oil changes. Search is nobody's friend.

Sandbag over at N4W used that technique on his Frontier. It looks pretty cool. Linky

If you want really good camo you should get a vinyl wrap like 87pathymossyoak/beckylynn420

I sincerely hope that comment was directed towards me. My redneck girlfriend talked me into buying that truck with that paint job. I actually replaced the original doors and repainted the new ones to match. I don't think the previous owner used any stencils. Probably lots of drugs. I did the new doors and touch it up occasionally freehand. Posterboard stencils would probably look much better. Just lay down your base color and add shapes from there. She's my trail rig and I love her, but it takes a certain type of person to run around in a rattle canned 4x4. Children are by far the most appreciative gawkers. I can post some more pictures if you really want, but I think this picture says it all.

Worried about shiny paint and clear coat on a 20 year old 4x4? You all must have spent too much time painting in an enclosed space.

I have 32x11.5 BFG A/T tires on 15x6" stock chrome Pathy wheels. A narrow wheel will hold a bead better when aired down. I have had normal tire wear and handling on that setup. I guess what really matters is the sidewall and number of radial plies.