KovemaN

I don't get it

You can try using some diff juice that doesn't have LSD additives. Drain your diff, fill with new NON-LSD juice(I used Redline 75-90ns), drive figure eights in a parking lot and try to determine if it's locking up enough. If it's too aggressive add some LSD additive a little at a time. If your tires don't chirp at all then replace the LSD clutch pack. A junk yard pull would be your best bet to start off with. I pulled a LSD third member in the correct ratio here for $40. If that doesn't work you can replace the friction discs, but that can get expensive.

RockAuto.com carries a kit from Monroe for under $50 that mounts to the OEM location. I added that to mine, but I didn't notice much of a difference.

Here in AZ we are allowed to carry firearms out in the open. I have a leg holster that works great when riding on or off road. That may be one reason that I never had a problem like yours when riding here in Phoenix. Not that guns are the answer, but there are a lot fewer questions when you carry openly.

The part for the Warn is called a hub fuse (#60863). $20-25 for two so about a $50 initial investment with spares. Much cheaper and easier than replacing CVs.

I seem to get shocked by just about everything no matter where I go. When I get out of the truck I touch the back of my hand to the body before trying to shut the door. If I don't, ZAP! The same goes for metal doors including freezer cases in the supermarket and just about any electronic equipment. My ex would make fun of me for it until I started zapping her instead of other grounded items. She didn't seem to find it funny after that.

They want to re-surface them so the new pads will seat better and any warpage will be removed. They just don't want to have to go back and fix it if they squeak. I know some brake techs that will even have brand new rotors machined so that there is no possibility of warpage. I have done plenty of brake jobs and I don't bother having the rotors machined unless there was pulsing in the brake pedal. Even then rotors are so cheap I usually just go with new ones.

Forget the one I mentioned. I went to buy it and found salt residue on the carpet up under the dash. The thing got dipped in the ocean at one point and I'm not going to subject myself to that can of worms. I wouldn't suggest it for anyone else either.

I decided to check out the $1k pathy and it's in pretty nice shape for that price. It's a '95 SE with LSD and rear disc. It has an upper intake manifold leak and needs some TLC. Then engine and tranny have been replaced, but the maintenance history is completely unknown. The interior is really clean and it even has the moon roof sun shade. It will certainly need a paint job if you care about that kind of thing.

I would check out this one first if I were you. http://phoenix.craigslist.org/nph/cto/1665449590.html

I have the Superlift UCAs on my pathfinder and AC on my pickup. Maybe I have an older pair of AC arms, but they didn't seem to have any ball joint correction built into them. I don't really care though since upper BJs are super easy and cheap to replace. I also have a pair of Calmini UCAs sitting in my shop. I think I would rather sell them than swap out the AC arms. Any takers?

I will give you an "E" for effort

Try removing the grill and drilling through or cutting away the inside of the hood and then hammer it out with a wooden dowel. On my truck I would probably just leave it. It's a beauty mark. Reminds me of the time I was pulling Beastpath out of the snow and his truck kept sliding until his spare kissed my hood and dented it. He was all upset about it and offered to replace it, but I simply told him "It's not that kind of truck". Is your truck "that kind of truck"?

I also went with a new converter and cat-back exhaust when I installed the headers. Throttle response was definitely improved. Mileage was hard to tell since the sound made my right foot heavier. What I liked the best was how the truck seemed to snarl and growl with little blips of the throttle.

No problems with them on my '92. Still waiting to install a new set on my '95. Not looking forward to the stud extraction.

The right angle adapter was still a giant PITA for me. What I did ended up being extremely effective and allowed me to remove 6 broken studs rather easily. First and foremost you will need some good cobalt drill bits and a high quality extractor. Next you will need to pick up a quick change keyless chuck and a 12" quick change extension. You should be able to figure out the rest. If you can hammer in the extractor after drilling the hole in your stud it will grab easier.

I think you would be ok with the tow hook mounting points and a solid mount to the top bumper mounting hole. I wouldn't bother with the bottom part of the bumper mounting bracket unless you can tie into it from under the body after the lift.

I had the X wheels on my D21 pickup and I didn't like the backspacing (too much). If you use spacers they will look better. The hub hole is big enough for manual hubs and they use plastic center caps just like the SC wheels pictured. Actually I think the center caps are identical.

I made my own bumper and mounts to replace the stock bumper that my girlfriend trashed. I used 2x2x1/4" angle bolted to the tow hook points. I haven't tied it into the original bumper mounts yet since they still need to be "adjusted". Once I do that I will be adding D-rings and I have no doubt that it will hold up to some abuse. I also plan on adding a skid plate between the angle brackets, but I haven't settled on a design.

It's just some scrap metal that his friends welded onto the truck when he wasn't looking (notice the partial axle shaft). It doesn't serve any function at all other than to make people say WTF.

That Pathfinder is VERY abused. You should see it in person. It's a true testament to the durability of the WD21.

That's Flipper's truck from N4W. Notice the satellite dish mount on the roof and the other crap welded to the tire carrier. The grill is on a bracket that folds out from the carrier too.

The older TREs had a smaller tapered hole at the pitman. That I know for sure.

Sounds like fuel delivery. Pump, relay or fuse could be culprits. Can you hear the pump running when you turn the key on?

Most of the length of the splines on the t-bar should engage the anchor. It was probably installed improperly at some point. I would check the other side as well. You should be able to pick up an anchor from Nissan for around $30 if you don't have a JY near by.