KovemaN

Using a VG30 with the longer crank snout is fine. I bought a reman 300zx engine and it had the long snout. Nissan makes a spacer for the pulley/damper so it will seat correctly. You will also need a new crank bolt and washer. Spacer: 12308-V5321 Bolt: 12309-16V00 Washer: 12308-77A00

There is a big round rubber boot where the engine harness enters the cab. It is on the passenger side of the firewall. When I run wires back I cut a slit in that boot and push the wire through to the cab. It will come out behind the dash by the passenger side foot well. Since it's a small wire you might want to attatch it to a piece of firm wire (coat hanger) and use that to guide it through. I can show you when you come by tomorrow.

N4W would probably be a good place for that question.

Where are you trying to place the sender? I'm pretty sure that the sender provided with the kit is 1/8" NPT. Most, if not all threads on a Pathfinder are metric.

Hard shifting, dumping the clutch and engine braking. I think it may have been the pilot bushing wearing out that really brought on the failure. It was severely trashed. The springs in the friction plate appeared to have been rubbing on something before it failed. I don't recall if it was the flywheel bolts or the pressure plate. I think it happened because the whole assembly was not staying centered with the worn out pilot bushing. It was a freak incident in terms of Nissan quality. BTW, it was the original Nissan clutch and it had 120k miles on it.

What is the absolute worst that could happen if he were to put some JB Weld in the hole and then replace the stud? The seal could eventually fail and then a small amount of coolant would leak out gradually. That would be the easiest and cheapest option. A welder is obviously the best solution, but cost could be prohibitive. So it seems there are three options: Cheap = Seal the hole and put the new stud in with fingers crossed. Moderate = Hire a welder Expensive = Replace the head

I have seen a Nissan clutch fail. One of the springs in the friction plate broke and lodged in the fingers of the pressure plate. The clutch wouldn't disengage. That was a first for me, but was probably caused by abuse. I would still go with the Nissan OE unit though. I believe most of the Nissan clutches that I have seen were Exedy branded. 1 failure out of 11 Nissan clutches isn't bad.

I had my flywheel machined at NAPA for something like $30. While you have the flywheel off you should probably replace the rear main seal as well. I installed the Centerforce stage 2 clutch and popped my slave cylinder within two weeks. This was probably due to the stronger pressure plate. I have since replaced the slave and I am planning to change the rubber clutch line over to braided stainless for reliability. I got my Centerforce clutch set on Ebay for $130. Over OEM, the Centerforce is definitely not worth the premium price that Rugged Rocks is asking. I don't know why the price is so high on RR. $500 difference? WTF?

They did for me. On my other Pathfinder they mounted 33x12.5" BFGs on 15x8 black steelies with a 4" offset. That was a pretty nice combo. That truck had BL and SL and it still needed trimming in the front though. A sawzall will make quick work of the front corner of the front fender.

My old Pathy had the stock chrome wheels with 32" BFG A/Ts. That's the way I bought her and I never bothered to buy new rims. I never had a problem with the bead or tread wear. I can't believe that Wal-Mart mounted them for the PO in the first place.

32s will definitely fit on the stock chrome 15x6 rims. Most won't recommend it, but when you air down a narrow rim will hold the bead better. I only had to trim a little off of the front corner of the front fender flare. The only rubbing was at full lock on the side of the PS box. Definitely not a big deal especially since you can adjust the stops to prevent that rubbing. If you are going to lift I would suggest picking up the 15x8 steelies from Summit. They have good prices and shipping is cheap too. If you have a Discount Tire shop near you they will match online prices.

Vortex is a gimmick. If you want to chip, you can get an idea of what it takes HERE. Adding headers and freeing up the exhaust is the most common route around here. The only other reasonable option is to change your gearing. At least you will get the illusion of more power. More chipping info: http://www.z31.com/prom/ http://www.zx-files.com/ http://cherrypicker.tripod.com/id10.html

I find the search function on this board to be quite lacking. You would probably be better off using google and adding "site:npora.ipbhost.com" to your search string. I've used the search here looking for specific threads and get no results even though I know exactly what I am looking for. Yes I have learned the intricacies of this board's search and it still omits valid search results. As for the switch, the only permanent fix is to unplug the factory switch and replace it with a quality pin switch on the hatch.

The FSM calls for a bead of sealant. I used black RTV with no gasket on the last two that I did with no leaks. It seemed to work better than the gray.

The 180* thermostat sits at 1/2 for me with the AC on.

Bushing Thread There really isn't much to it unless your cups are trashed. Release the tension on the t-bars and jack up the suspension so the compression rod is level. You can probably leave the t-bars cranked, but it's easier with no tension. Unbolt the rod from the arm and the frame. Replace the bushings and re-assemble.

My temp guage has been hitting the 1/2 mark here in Phoenix with the AC on. 110* does suck, even in the shade. I wouldn't worry unless it gets near 2/3. As for the stalling I would seriously consider the coolant temp sensor to be suspect. If the ECU doesn't get the proper reading from the sensor the air/fuel mixture will be off. I had similar idle issues on my last pathy and replacing the sensor fixed it. If the ecu doesn't like the signal it will return a code 13 in diagnostic mode III.

I guess I missed the part about no codes. He didn't ever say he tried pulling them. There definitely is a pressure switch in the PS system that tells the computer to kick up the idle when the pump is working hard. Same goes for the AC. The AC clutch trigger wire also signals the ECU to bump up the idle. Either of those could be disconnected and it could cause the vehicle to stall.

Since your fan ripped off violently you could have severed one or more wires. Does your idle kick up when you turn the AC on? Without the AC does your idle kick up when you turn the steering wheel? The power steering pressure sensor wiring would be vulnerable to a flying fan blade. Also, did you happen to replace your thermostat when you fixed everything? My temp guage is centered at 180 which is the standard thermostat temp. With the the 170 degree thermostat (standard in hot climates) my truck sits at about 1/4 - 1/3 on the guage. You may also benefit from replacing the coolant temp sensor. It should throw a code if it's not working properly though. Any codes?

Brushes in the alternator will wear out more quickly under heavier loads. They are basically just electric motors in reverse.

Yeah, I totally forgot about the MPG crap. Cars: New car must get at least 22mpg (weak for new car). $3500 for a +4mpg improvement and $4500 for +10mpg. Light Truck: New vehicle must get 18mpg. $3500 for +2mpg (seriously!) and $4500 for +5mpg Full Size Trucks: New one only needs to get 15mpg. $3500 for +1mpg and +$4500 for +2mpg Those numbers make this whole thing seem that much more retarded.

The vehicle has to have been registered and insured by the owner for at least one year preceding the trade in. There is no $3500 check in the mail. The dealer discounts their inflated price and then the government sends the dealer $3500. The dealer will be allowed to part out all but the engine and transmission and keep the proceeds. It's a very flawed piece of cr@p that only serves as the dealer portion of the auto industry bailout. Most people that can afford to buy a new vehicle are probably driving something worth more than $3500 anyway. Smoke and mirrors gentlemen.

Find a pair of cheap locking pliers and clamp them on the strut. It's cheap and installation is simple. Extra locking pliers can also come in handy for other chores. Luckily for me the struts on my new Pathy actually work.

Mine is a 1995 SE. Loaded with leather, heated seats, heated mirrors, sport package (LSD & rear disc) and moon roof. It even has the power antenna which does not work. Technically it should be an LE, but it's definitely marked SE. After doing some research I have determined that the LE was indroduced in 1994. It is a fully optioned SE. LEs only came with auto transmissions. SE was 4x4 only while the LE was available in 2wd. If it doesn't have leather then it is not the LE.

Is there a different VIN code for the LE model?