KovemaN

http://utilities.coverking.com/costco/Default.aspx?costco_sku=CK12n It still appears to be working even though the product is no longer on their site.

No. You have to order them online. I would probably call CoverKing first to verify that the material used is in fact CR Neoprene. When I went through the order process it definitely says "Genuine CR Neoprene". I saw on another forum where some vendor was swearing up and down that the Costco CoverKing seat covers were the cheaper Neosupreme. He was trying to sell another seat cover though.

The set I was considering for purchase from Costco was the Genuine CR grade neoprene and not the Neosupreme. The cost was $160 or $170

If you have a Costco membership you can get the CoverKing custom-fit neoprene covers. Supposedly the same quality as the Wet Okole, but through Costco they are about half the price.

I got a steal on a cone filter at Pep Boys ($10) and bought the rest at Autozone for under $20. The sound was great and the performance increase was noticeable.

It looks like you should be able to get a kit for the front and back seats that replaces the oem covers for around $800. Have you checked with any upholstery shops to see how much it would cost for custom leather? http://www.shopsar.com/nissan-pathfinder-katzkin-leather-kit-p/katzkin-nispth.htm

The side gears need to be from the same type of diff (open or LSD). The ring and pinion can be from any type of 3rd member.

So what do you mean by "snapped" on you? Does the cylinder just spin when you turn the key or did the key break off in the lock? I have fixed a few Nissan locks and all it took was replacing a cheap ($0.79) plastic tab on the lock mechanism.

Good post. The same method also works for LCA, front differential, and leaf spring bushings. I would say it's the only reliable way since the metal sleeve on the outside of the bushing will not budge with any type of press.

It's hidden on the page with the lift springs. Part Number - NP12633 $75.95 + $25 shipping.

The drop would be 70mm in that drawing. I thought that would be about right for a 3" lift after it has settled. That can be changed to accommodate any lift though. The top of the bracket would lie inside the original mount instead of around the outside. There is a lip on the outside of the stock mount and this would not require modification of that bracket. This is basically a copy of the Calmini bracket. The only difference is the tube between the sides instead of a strap along the back.

I have seen many people asking for this so I made a simple drawing to guide someone if they are interested in building their own panhard bar drop bracket. It should probably be built from 3/16" steel plate or cold roll flat bar. It's basically two pieces of steel with a few holes separated by a plate at the top and a piece of tubing supporting the original bolt hole.

Here is the best explanation that I have ever heard for stuff like this: The engineer is married to a mechanic so when they argue the engineer just puts something in an asinine location for revenge.

From my experiences there are no access panels for removing the top bolts on the tranny. I have always used a combination of wobble extensions and a u-joint for getting to those. That is except for the time that I cut the floor out with a sawzall when helping Beastpath pull a tranny. You will need about 2 feet of extensions to make the job easier. A second pair of hands could save you a couple of hours on this project. Depending on how you plan on lowering the tranny it may be beneficial to remove the transfer case before trying to drop it. That will greatly reduce the weight that you have to lower to the ground. I have also found that putting the tranny on a piece of thick cardboard will make it easy to slide out from under the truck. I'm sure I'm forgetting some other helpful hints, but learning is half of the fun right?

A simple (first order) high pass crossover with a capacitor will only reduce the low frequencies by a small amount (-6db). You should probably try to find some cheap pre-built second order (-12db) crossovers or if you are handy with electronics you can build your own. Below is a simple diagram for a second order high pass filter. +_______ Cap ___________Speaker + | Coil | -_______________________Speaker - Personally I am more concerned with the sub and enclosure that you have. Using the wrong box is the biggest mistake you can make when installing a sub. What amp are you running? If you want the best sound possible you should pick up a separate 4-channel amp to power your regular speakers. It will make a world of difference and most have a crossover built in so you could save some money there to offset the cost.

I think there is. I saw it at the top of a window once.

It gives me a warm fuzzy feeling knowing that a Pathfinder with a dead auto tranny can be resurrected and converted to a 5-speed without having to spend a fortune. I just so happen to have a new spare clutch slave that I got from RockAuto for $5.74. I'm sure that the bleed screw can be extracted from yours without too much hassle. I'm sure I have some silicon hose laying around for a breather too. I can't wait to see that truck now that she's running again.

Using your hi-lift as a floor jack again?

I try not to hammer the brakes on slippery roads. It makes driving much less exciting which is not necessarily a bad thing.

Catalytic converters don't have chambers. If it says three-way that means it reduces hydrocarbons, CO, and NOx. That is the kind you want. I would recommend the Magnaflow 22760. It's a direct bolt on, high flow converter. They can be had on ebay for around $100 or closer to $70 if you are patient.

Firestone and PepBoys were the only shops open around here. Firestone was outrageously expensive for mounting and balancing. PepBoys cut me a super deal and had me out the door quickly. I couldn't have been happier. I've had mixed results with Discount. They are usually pretty good at matching prices though.

Ah! I didn't bother to look and see that they're called Discount out here. I was pretty damn sure that there wasn't a major tire chain here that I didn't know about. Have you ever tried to get tire work done on a Sunday? You'll go through all of the tire shops pretty fast around here before you find one that's open. PITA

Oh yeah, I forgot you guys were getting dumped on. Must be nice. The pitch is M8x1.25mm

We don't have them here. Only Checker(Kragen), Vatozone and Napa. I picked up a set of tuner locks pretty cheap. That should be a slight deterrent.

It goes from the BPT to the egr and it WILL fail on all D21/WD21s eventually. Nearly every single one I have worked on (KA24 and VG30) has had a hole in that hose. It's a schitty rubber tube that has to handle hot exhaust gas. WTF were they thinking? (edited so I could say schitty)