KovemaN

Judging by the pics I would think that they would rip off at the frame before bending. I like the idea of them being removable, but I would have welded the frame side tubes to some plate, gusset the tube to the plate and then weld the plate to the frame. This is how I wanted to make mine removable, but I like the tube mounts better now that I have seen it done.

Put a wood block between the arm and the bumpstop before you drop the truck back on the ground after removing the t-bars. It will make moving it much easier.

Sorry it took so long, but here are the pics of the two IA braces. The Calmini brace has a notch cut out of it so it could be bent to fit correctly. Calmini A/C

Very nice! Now it's time to go get her dirty.

I believe all 31 spline h233b axles had the thrust block. The 33 spline axles did not have a thrust block. The stock thrust block should work just fine with the lock right. Whoever installed the lock right may have just forgotten to put it back in.

If you ever have to use reverse in 4wd you will truly appreciate manual locking hubs. The autos do not give you 4wd in reverse.

I would go for custom as well. Find a local off-road fabricator and then ask to see their portfolio. If they don't have one either move on or negotiate a very low price and hope for the best. I went with a relatively unknown fabricator for a rear bumper and sliders and I was very pleased with the work. Just make sure you know what you want before you go shopping. Also, make sure to get the fabricator to give you a solid price quote.

The USPS tracking is not up to date like UPS or FedEx. I have bought parts from Pathrider with no problems. I wouldn't worry about getting stiffed. We seriously need some kind of feedback system though.

You should take the line off of your truck and down to the parts store so they can match the length and fittings. You can bend it to match yours by hand. No special tools are required.

I used to drive a D21 with manual steering and it wasn't that big of a deal. I know for a fact that a D21 without PS is faster than one with it. If you plan on running tires bigger than a 26-27" I wouldn't recommend it though. Especially if you are performing low speed maneuvers off road.

Look at the comments at the bottom of the article. Apparently she is still bitter that MrJim got his truck back. I am happy to have been around at just the right time to help out. It's a great story.

Because of an evil woman.

What's wrong with drunks? You can see from the backside that the hole isn't even close to lining up.

Reading the title of the topic I got a laugh. If you have the bracket you probably have problems. I used a piece of 3/8 mild steel rod for the top bolt. First I made a 90 degree bend with a .75" leg into one end and then I threaded the other end to accept a nylon lock nut that I had laying around. The 3/8" rod is small enough to account for the poor tolerances of the bracket and frame. I will copy mine and send you one for free if you want. DO NOT drive without it.

If there are any fence-sitters out there, I would totally recommend these. The price + shipping is unbeatable. Any decent exhaust shop should be able to mount these up if you order the gusset kit along with the sliders. The only mod that I would suggest would be to trim the pinch seam above the legs if you don't have any body lift. A BFH should do the trick as well.

I have a set of these waiting to be installed on my truck right now. The legs come with the sliders and everything looks really nice. The price was pretty low as well. The plate and gusset kit is optional, but you will need to fab your own if you don't buy the kit. You shouldn't weld the legs directly to the frame unless you only want them for looks.

Get the truck up as high as possible. Drain the tranny and t-case fluids. Pull both seats and the front carpet. Remove the entire shift and t-case levers and cover the opening into the tranny well. Drop the t-bars and exhaust crossover pipe. Plan on fighting the top tranny to engine bolts. Very long extensions will be needed. A couple of wobble extensions in there won't hurt either. If you have a body lift the job will be easier. The tranny with the t-case connected is extremely heavy. Use a good tranny jack and pay close attention to how the tranny is balanced on the jack. Plan on pulling the flywheel to have it surfaced. You should also consider the rear main seal since you're in there. Having some heavy cardboard or thin plywood to drag the tranny on will help you get it out from under the truck if you are so inclined. I'm sure I'm forgetting something, but if you still want to do it yourself then you'll figure it out.

The thing that's odd to me is that the few that I have seen are acutally XEs. You would think that they would be SEs right?

Leave it to a bleeding heart Canuck to reach out to the under-educated. In all actuality I really hate the search function on this board. I considered a "Search Nazi" logo, but I thought better of it. I learned the hard way. Buying way too many Pathfinders. The middle ground is murky. Search Nazis do have their place. When searching don't forget to ask yourself this:

Does your VIN # start with 5N1? I believe it's one of 300 WD21 Pathfinders that were made in the US.

Sounds like air in the system. It should work its way out. The floating feeling could be from the toe being out of adjustment. If you set it neutral the steering will wander. It needs just under 1/4" toe in.

You can try using some diff juice that doesn't have LSD additives. Drain your diff, fill with new NON-LSD juice(I used Redline 75-90ns), drive figure eights in a parking lot and try to determine if it's locking up enough. If it's too aggressive add some LSD additive a little at a time. If your tires don't chirp at all then replace the LSD clutch pack. A junk yard pull would be your best bet to start off with. I pulled a LSD third member in the correct ratio here for $40. If that doesn't work you can replace the friction discs, but that can get expensive.

RockAuto.com carries a kit from Monroe for under $50 that mounts to the OEM location. I added that to mine, but I didn't notice much of a difference.

The part for the Warn is called a hub fuse (#60863). $20-25 for two so about a $50 initial investment with spares. Much cheaper and easier than replacing CVs.