KovemaN

If you're good with computers and a soldering iron you can chip your own. Programmers and blank chips are cheap on ebay. You will need to desolder and remove the old chip then solder in a ZIF or DIP socket. I would recommend the ZIF since you will likely be experimenting a bit. The only other option is to drop big coin on the JWT.

I just happened to have this on my desk: Lower = 21", Upper = 10.5" (eye to eye, WD21). 2x2" 6061 should be 4.6-4.7 lb/ft. A pair of good joints will weigh more than the link.

For the best shots you need a co-pilot to get out and take action shots as you spank an obstacle.

I just installed a front LSD in my Pathfinder and I wheeled the piss out of it last week. Everything worked great and no CV breakage. It probably helped that I also installed drop bushings in the diff before I put it back in. I was able to climb everything with no slippage and I didn't really notice a huge difference in the steering response. LSD FTW!

Koveman

My upper links seem to be limiting my down travel. When I had the truck up on the rack I could see that the rubber was being twisted pretty hard. Of course 20 year old rubber bushings are probably ready for replacement.

Speaking of limiting straps, I just installed a pair in the rear so I won't bind the links or lose a coil at full droop. I guess a new thread is in order. The straps coupled with this mod will address all of the rear suspension problems with stock links. Longer links will require modification to that cross member.

Great write-up and documentation of a serious problem. Thanks.

I had my Pathy up on the rack yesterday and the e-brake cable was a big concern with the body lift. I too am considering the axle flip, but I think I will be leaving the cables connected to the backing plates and swapping them. The mount will spin around the cable and the spot where they mount to the body is pretty much the same on each side.

The '91 SE shouldn't have anything under the driver seat unless it had the factory alarm. You will probably need to source aftermarket seats to get them to sit lower.

The '91 SE shouldn't have anything under the seat unless it had the factory alarm. You will probably need to source aftermarket seats to get them to sit lower.

And you would know this because you finally installed your lock-right?

Yep, class III 2". I have the same hitch on one of my Pathfinders.

A 1995 Pathfinder with a 4.3l Vortec swap, twin stick D300, full width 60s, ARB front and rear, double triangulated 4-link front and rear with 14-16" coilovers, full hydro steering, sitting on 42" Pitbull Rockers, full exo and half doors. A Honda S2000 and a Suzuki DR-Z400 would also be nice.

Yes. Don't do that though. Your suspension will not be happy.

Sorry, I fixed it. In that case the WMS is 1/2" towards the inside of the wheel. Less backspacing = sticking out farther and a negative change in offset. Any wheel that doesn't have the WMS in the center has negative offset. Front wheel drive cars generally have a lot of backspacing and positive offset.

Less backspacing = further out. Negative offset = further out. All of the numbers can get confusing. For example: A 15x8 wheel with 4" backspacing is actually 8.5" wide, that puts the wheel mounting surface (WMS) 0.5" towards the INSIDE of the wheel and that roughly equates to -13mm offset. Confused yet? - edited because I am dumb sometimes

FYI - The torsion bar anchor bolts are M12x1.25x175mm 10.9 grade. You could snatch some from a JY. They should be the same for just about any Nissan truck. I took my measurements from a 4x4 Hardbody. Courtesy Parts has them listed for under $8 or you could go to your local Nissan parts counter and ask nicely for the wholesale pricing discount.

Very cool and congrats on getting her running. Keep up the good work.

Sorry for stirring the pot B. (Insert justification here) Nunya - I was making the judgement based on the pictures of Pathfinder rollovers that I could dig up quickly. I have never rolled one and hopefully never will. I would really like to have a well executed exo. I will gladly sacrifice ergonomics and fuel economy for the safety. My family is priceless to me.

Dude chops his top and wants to show off his work and all that comes out is a bunch of pissing and moaning about it. It's not my style, but seriously, get a f-ing life. It's not like the original sheet metal is going to protect you in a serious rollover anyway.

Neither truck had recovery points with d-rings so the hooks were the only option. I put a heavy blanket on the strap just in case something let loose. Since I now have proper recovery points and gear I won't be using that hooked strap any more. I don't know if the blanket would really save your bacon, but it's a common practice with straps and winches. Sometimes you just have to use what is available.

I've used the HF 2"x20' strap numerous times without problem. The hooks aren't really that great, but it's better than nothing. It even held up when I had to get a run and jerk someone out of the snow.

If I can fit them in a small USPS flat rate box it's $12. I went to the metal supply shop yesterday to pick up some stock. These will be done by the middle of March. If you guys don't mind cutting off or flattening the flared section on the bottom of the original bracket I will build them like the one in the picture in the first post. They could be done much quicker if that is the case. Otherwise there will be more pieces and a few more welding steps.

Here are the rough dimensions for a WD21 panhard drop bracket. The measurements were taken from the Calmini bracket. I will be making one for myself and one for Beastpath within the next few weeks. I will probably just go ahead and make 3 or 4. I was planning on selling them for $40-50.