KovemaN

Welcome.

When I'm done I still want to be able to drive the truck to work or across the state for camping. I will be doing a 3-link up front with 12" coilovers. I was planning on having 4" uptravel, but keeping everything as low as possible while still being able to clear 35s. The rear will have longer arms, but I haven't decided whether to go with a triangulated or panhard setup. I was just wondering what numbers you used for total mass, front/rear unsprung mass (with d44 front, h233 rear and 35s) and CG height (stock). Of course I will have to adjust for CG height when I figure out exactly how high she will be sitting. I will probably stretch the WB a little too so I will have to take that into account.

Would you mind sharing your vehicle specification numbers for the link calculator? I know my 4-door will be a little different, but I need a good starting place.

Why don't you just flip the shocks? I know it will be harder to reach the adjuster, but I believe that's how they are supposed to be mounted. The body on those 9000s is exceptionally large as well.

It was graded from Senator Highway down to the creek crossing at Oro Belle. The rest was pretty much the same. We made a day out of it and did a loop back down through Minnehaha. I highly recommend checking that out if you get a chance.

I lurk NOR mostly for ONAZ stuff. I was running Crown King that day or else I would have made it out.

Yep. Damn near identical to the one I have now. I kicked myself for a while after selling that. Ted was on that run. There were a lot of Titan guys out that day. A couple of Frontiers and Xs. T-Ray met up with us near the Verde. Everybody was affiliated with ONAZ one way or another.

ME! You probably know Beastpath. He as a 2-tone WD21. Did you happen to be on the Sheep Crossing run last year? Maybe the TM cleanup? Welcome to NPORA!

It's possible that they would fit, but I wouldn't count on it unless you have good measurements of each.

Nice cans They are a little pricey, but they are getting harder to find. I haven't run across new ones like that for a while.

Make sure to put those cross member bolts in with the bolt head towards the front of the truck. That way you won't have to pull the t-bars to drop the diff if you ever need to.

It will fit nicely. I was considering doing that so that I could remove the original tank and 4-link the rear of my D21. I already have my spare, can holders and hi-lift on a custom tailgate/bumper.

To change the rear springs you will need a floor jack and two stands. Jack up the rear of the truck under the pumpkin, put the stands under the frame, disconnect the rear sway bar, unbolt and disconnect one end of the panhard and shocks, unbolt the parking brake guides from the lower control arms and then lower the floor jack. The springs should be ready to fall out. Getting the new springs in might be a little more difficult, but I've never had an issue getting them in. You may have to loosen the parking brake cable to get the axle to drop far enough to install the longer springs.

That drawing looks familiar I'm glad someone got around to building it. I was never really satisfied with the way mine came out.

Looks like the OP hasn't been back so why would anyone else try to tell you what was going on? When he does come back he will probably provide the whole world with useful information regarding the project. His other video mentions being in 2wd so just make an assumer of yourself and assume that this was the case this time. Isn't it obvious that this was in 2wd? Dude is bragging about putting two blowers on his VG30 and stuffing that into a Pathfinder. I am all for that type of bravado. He did a good write-up and is following up with videos of the machine in service. I'm much more concerned with how much it will cost me to do the same thing to my rig.

Isn't this what a BOV is for: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbNxugO-uf0 I'm sure that's where this project is going. He couldn't actually be taking this seriously.

An 8" wide wheel is actually 9" wide when it comes to backspacing. 4" backspacing on a 15x8 wheel gives a -12.5mm offset. It's usually stated -12 or -13. Centered would be 4.5" BS on a 15x8. Confusing @!*%e.

I believe that the 87-95 H233 LSD units were in the 260-280 lb range. Each iteration after that had progressively weaker breakaway torque until it got all the way down below 100 lbs in the later Frontiers. That turned out to be practically useless. I have lifted a rear wheel with both the good LSD and a Lock-Right and even though the LSD is practically locked, the mechanical locker was much better. I could have avoided some body damage if I had just gone with the locker in the first place. PS. - B, I have a home for your Lock-Right if you have finally given up on it

The "core" of the LSD diff is smaller in diameter than the open diff. I think that Richmond made the right decision to use the open diff for the locker. The LSD diff would have a much smaller locking engagement surface.

Replaced the window motor on the driver window. The motor was actually working fine, but the rubber damper that couples the gear to the drive shaft was destroyed. Luckily I had a spare rear door to pull the motor from. I also used the opportunity to replace the speaker in that door. I replaced the other side over a year ago, but never got around to the driver side. FYI - the motor from the rear driver door has the correct mounting and connector, but the polarity is reversed.

90-97 D21s, 89-90 S13s and 90-92 U12s (Stanza) had the MPFI KA24E.

Harbor freight sells the lug nut removers that Nunya linked to. They have worked well for me too. I bought them specifically for this purpose.

To completely remomve the shaft you will need to remove the bolt from the clamp at the steering box and remove two bolts from the rag joint (by the firewall) to separate it. Slide the steering shaft off of the input shaft on the steering box and that's it.

Idiot. You can also find your key code on a sticker in the glove box. That is if your glove box is the original.

So sayeth Tierod!