KovemaN

To pull the shift boot without ripping the carpet, you will need to pull the seats, console and some other plastic bits. It's not too bad except for the little plastic screws in the door sills.

I thought we were talking about seat belts? WTF B?

I installed a stock stabilizer on my '95 and I never noticed a difference.

I've thought it was your ex all along.

It's hit or miss. I'm pretty sure that I was able to run the diagnostics on my '95 without pulling the seat. I believe I did that before I bought it.

I think I have some good news for you. Your check engine light is most likely due to your speedo not working correctly. The computer will throw a code 14 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) if the dash freaks out. You definitely need to read this page before you worry too much about the CEL.

You might as well Seafoam that beehotch after you have replaced the booster. It should clean out the brake fluid and you get to have the fun smoke show for the neighbors. I've got a spare for my truck that I'm willing to part with, but I'm not sure if the VG30E booster is the same as the KA24E.

I learned my lesson early and started reversing the LCA bolts. Sure makes the diff job easier the next time around. Funny thing is that I only had to grind them shorter on my WD21 and not on the D21. Both had the VG30. You guys are Edit: You don't really have to grind the bolts down. Extra washers on the front side of the bolt will do the trick. Seriously though, F*** pulling that front diff.

When changing the timing chain on the KA24 you WILL get water/coolant in the oil pan if you don't remove it. Do as Precise1 said and flush it after you get it running. There is a very good possibility that the distributor is not installed correctly and the timing is off. Have you tried rotating the distributor to see if it makes a difference in getting it to run?

Ha! They've had me up in the middle of the night with gun in hand on more than one occasion. I vote all except for mud. You can rock crawl and DD a trail rig. A mudder to me is purpose built just for mudding.

The shafts are nearly identical. The spline count and diameter are the same, but the length is very slightly different (disc are longer). I would pull used if possible, but all new disc components will bolt to a housing that was originally fitted with drum brakes. The thrust block is ONLY FOR DRUM BRAKES. The disc axles have a different bearing at the backing plate that allows them to operate as a full floater as opposed to a semi-float like the drum axles. Call me if you need any more clarification.

Pull the whole disc axle if possible. Otherwise, you can just unbolt the backing plates from the donor housing and pull the whole axle shaft out. Make sure to pull the third member and remove the thrust block if you're swapping disc axles into a drum housing or the axles won't seat fully.

There are two plastic bushings that affect shifter alignment. One is on the very end of the shift lever (control lever bushing - 32861) and the other is a plastic cup where the ball on the shift lever sits (control lever socket - 32850). There are various other springs in there that may also affect how tight the shifter feels. Be careful when removing the old control lever bushing. It is a serious PITA to remove and if you score the shift lever it will wear out the new bushing quickly. You could always just pull the entire lever/top plate from the good transmission and bolt it in place of yours.

Xterrafirma has scored a deal with Lokka (from AU) and now you can lock your R200a (29 spline) front diff for $299 shipped. It looks a lot like a Lock-Rite. Follow the link and use the code. It's only in effect for a short period and I'm not exactly sure what that is, but it's available at the sale price right now. They're trying to gauge US demand and this seems like a good way to do it. I'm not in any way affiliated with the deal or Lokka, other than ordering one for myself. http://xterrafirma.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=8742

The bearing race I used was LM67010 which is a Timken part #. To repair the hole I used a thin shim from Ace Hardware and welded that to the back of the bearing race. I'm not sure of the exact details on that though. Just make sure that it's thin or it will throw off your caster.

Me.

v6 and 4 banger stuff don't mix. That goes for transmission, diffs and rear axle.

Everything from the cab forward will swap. The biggest differences are body mount height and gas tank location. You could do links and coils in the back, but you will need to run a 3-link if you keep the stock gas tank. You can go to a 4-link if you fit the Pathfinder tank where the spare would normally be located. Either way you go you will need to fabricate coil buckets and link mounts.

I used Volvo clips to re-mount my DS front corner light. The Nissan parts guy didn't have any in stock so he snagged some from the Volvo bin since the two share the same parts counter. They actually fit better than the Nissan clips. Best part of all - No charge.

Replaced the upper radiator hose. Damn thing sprung a leak on the way in to work.

My runst are totally mad like they're from paper. Very mad.

I like the little brake check at the bottom of that first hill. If anyone has the urge to rent a jeep in Sedona, I would highly recommend Barlow Jeeps. The owner Nena is really cool and she is dedicated to the off road community.

You will need to get the later flares that have the provision for mounting the newer style mud flaps. Most likely 1994-95.

I use one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/steering/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-point-joint-separator-99849.html for ball joints and TREs. It's by far the best separator I've ever used. It's especially helpful when you don't want to destroy the ball joint or TRE boot with a pickle fork.

That's got to be at least $50 USD