KovemaN

It looks like you should be able to take your current armrest off and install the top console/armrest from a newer WD21. My old '92 had the taller console while my '91 just has the armrest so I would look at '92-95, but they may have had them earlier.

I don't think I've come across that particular style of console. It may be that all of mine have been manuals. On all of my WD21s the armrest/console portion would sit in the base and is screwed down through the base into the plastic grommets on the floor. I was even able to put the top portion from a '95 into the base of my '87 D21. There has never been a decent cup holder on any of the D/WD21s.

If you can provide a picture of what you have, I might be able to give you a bolt-on option.

The Dewalt 18v reciprocating saws can be found on craigslist or at a pawn shop pretty cheap. A lot of people have been upgrading to the 20v Lithium cordless stuff.

I use Redline MT90. Luckily, there is a shop here that carries it. The last time I bought it though was online by the case. Also, I had the drain plug problem and it turns out that the plug is a metric 13mm where a standard breaker is 1/2" (12.5mm). Harbor Freight sells a kit with the metric plug adapters. The only other option is heat.

It would probably work, but it doesn't have all of the mounting hardware/brackets. They would bolt to the holes at the bottom of the brush guard and then to the front tow hook mounting points on the truck.

I use NGK G-Power for my Nissans. Champions for the Dodge.

Make sure they're not going to send you a bill for shipping from TNT after the fact.

Check/replace your tension rod bushings/cups. Drain the tranny and refill with Redline MT-90. Pull the rear sway bar. Install longer rear shocks and springs. Crank the T-bars. Switch to manual locking hubs. Adjust your parking brake cables. The MT-90, shocks, springs and hubs would be your only expenses. Skip the shocks and springs if you don't want any lift. No need for longer front shocks if you crank your T-bars. Don't skip the trans fluid if you plan on keeping it and don't use anything but MT-90.

After all of the Pathfinders that I have gone through, I would most certainly start with a 3" body lift, removing the rear sway bar and using longer rear shocks. From there it's a rear locker and then SAS. A body lift is pretty straight forward, allows for bigger tires, easier access to the starter (as stated by , space to remove broken exhaust studs (ugh!), better access to the transmission bolts, exhaust clearance, no adverse effects of stiffening or changing the suspension geometry. BL is a little easier with an automatic trans, but not terrible with a manual. 3" is not any more work than 2". I was always a big fan of the SL, but the suspension on the WD21 is about as good as it can get from the factory.

I swear (loudly) that I've covered this before, but I could not find it with the search. The bearing race is LM67010. This is from memory that replaced more important things like my father's birthday and Avogadro's number (6.022x1023).

I replaced my front tires since my old style MT/Rs were worn out. I think I scored the best tire deal ever. Two 100% tread, new style 32x11.50-15 MT/Rs mounted and balanced with disposal for $80. I wasn't about to complain about the fact that they mounted the new tires with the white letters in when the rears had the white out. It would usually cost $15 a tire just for dismount/mount/balance. The only bad part is that the tread on the new tires seems to be quite a bit wider. Fender trimming and a T-bar crank are in order.

I had BFG AT/KO 32x11.50 on those chrome rims. They cleared the body with no lift. I didn't ever abuse them though.

You could probably get something made locally for about half of the price of an ARB. The Hardbody bumper would require a 1.5" body lift or modification since the body sat higher off of the frame than the WD21.

I'm not sure what the R50 skid looks like, but I was able to squeeze two together on my WD21 and bolt them into place with the original hardware. I'm pretty confident in that setup.

You're welcome.

I'd be surprised if the front lower arms are bent. They seem a little too beefy for that.

Tested my front bumper. Someone backed into me while I was waiting in a parking lot. I felt bad for the guy and his plastic bumper.

Almost everything is interchangeable. If both have the same drivetrain (auto or manual) the only differences should be the dash, rear speakers, tie rod ends and the steering gearbox/pitman arm.

I'm glad the pistons worked out. Those were mine . I still have a VG33 long block sitting in storage

FYI - In my last A/T Pathfinder, I had to wiggle the shift control in park to get the key to come out.

Bartlett is full so you're not going to make it very far past HB cove unless you like driving underwater.

The good thing about this type of extractor (the last type I used) is that once you have the stud drilled (PITA) you can tap the extractor into the stud with a hammer to seat it before you try to back it out. I would say it's the only type I would ever use or recommend again. My set was nearly identical, but I know it wasn't matco.

I bought my last 4wd Pathfinder with a rear locker, sliders, TJM bull bar, headers, 138K miles and 6 BFG 33x12.5 muds for $1000. A little bit of work and I let her go for $1600. Definitely a beat up trail rig, but $1600 is still super cheap. Sell the 2wd to someone who wants a DD and buy a built truck. They're out there and can be had cheaper than a nice looker. I only gave $3200 for the truck in my sig. I added a Lockright, 4.6 gears, front LSD and a complete set of new tires for another $1200. It was nice and shiny when I bought it, but if you want to wheel you shouldn't worry about that. I have AZ pinstriping up and down and all around. I also have a nice reminder of why I bought the locker. It's a 2' gouge down the driver door that could have been prevented with a traction aid.

The cuts would be in the carpet so you can access the screws that hold the boot retainer to the floor pan. That way you don't have to pull the seats/carpet to access the top of the transmission.