KovemaN

AFAIK, 94-95 were the only R200a diffs with the 4 pinion carrier. 87-93 D/WD-21 and D/WD22 were 2 pinion. I bought my lokka for a 4.9 WD22 diff.

The steering on my '95 feels light and nimble compared to my '91 with the same size tires. They beefed up the box and changed the valving on the pump. Not having to tear apart the box is enough for me to justify replacement. I went through the same seal ordeal years ago.

On top of the newer stuff working better, the rebuild is a major PITA. The seal kits don't always have what you need and the recirculating balls are going to be everywhere on your first try. If you do decide to rebuild, use some heavy grease to stick the bearings in place.

For the money, I would pull the steering box, pump and lines off of a 94-95. The response is so much better and AFAIK you only have to change the tie rod end at the pitman.

NOR

It might have been a bumper for a D21 pickup instead of a WD21 pathfinder. They sit 1.5" higher due to the different body mounts on the D21.

In order of ease of repair: Clutch master pin (connected to pedal under dash) Clutch slave cylinder (passenger side of transmission) Clutch master cylinder (driver side firewall) Release bearing (you're screwed) If it wasn't squealing like a pig, then it's probably not the release bearing. Can you shift the trans while the engine is off?

If it was, that has to be the worst wind tunnel in history

FYI http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/topic/25379-wd21-center-armrest-console/

It looks like you should be able to take your current armrest off and install the top console/armrest from a newer WD21. My old '92 had the taller console while my '91 just has the armrest so I would look at '92-95, but they may have had them earlier.

I don't think I've come across that particular style of console. It may be that all of mine have been manuals. On all of my WD21s the armrest/console portion would sit in the base and is screwed down through the base into the plastic grommets on the floor. I was even able to put the top portion from a '95 into the base of my '87 D21. There has never been a decent cup holder on any of the D/WD21s.

If you can provide a picture of what you have, I might be able to give you a bolt-on option.

The Dewalt 18v reciprocating saws can be found on craigslist or at a pawn shop pretty cheap. A lot of people have been upgrading to the 20v Lithium cordless stuff.

I use Redline MT90. Luckily, there is a shop here that carries it. The last time I bought it though was online by the case. Also, I had the drain plug problem and it turns out that the plug is a metric 13mm where a standard breaker is 1/2" (12.5mm). Harbor Freight sells a kit with the metric plug adapters. The only other option is heat.

HDR for the win? And...."*pending official boarder? Not to take anything from the beautiful truck and photo. Great win!

It would probably work, but it doesn't have all of the mounting hardware/brackets. They would bolt to the holes at the bottom of the brush guard and then to the front tow hook mounting points on the truck.

I use NGK G-Power for my Nissans. Champions for the Dodge.

Make sure they're not going to send you a bill for shipping from TNT after the fact.

Check/replace your tension rod bushings/cups. Drain the tranny and refill with Redline MT-90. Pull the rear sway bar. Install longer rear shocks and springs. Crank the T-bars. Switch to manual locking hubs. Adjust your parking brake cables. The MT-90, shocks, springs and hubs would be your only expenses. Skip the shocks and springs if you don't want any lift. No need for longer front shocks if you crank your T-bars. Don't skip the trans fluid if you plan on keeping it and don't use anything but MT-90.

In. It's about time!

After all of the Pathfinders that I have gone through, I would most certainly start with a 3" body lift, removing the rear sway bar and using longer rear shocks. From there it's a rear locker and then SAS. A body lift is pretty straight forward, allows for bigger tires, easier access to the starter (as stated by , space to remove broken exhaust studs (ugh!), better access to the transmission bolts, exhaust clearance, no adverse effects of stiffening or changing the suspension geometry. BL is a little easier with an automatic trans, but not terrible with a manual. 3" is not any more work than 2". I was always a big fan of the SL, but the suspension on the WD21 is about as good as it can get from the factory.

I swear (loudly) that I've covered this before, but I could not find it with the search. The bearing race is LM67010. This is from memory that replaced more important things like my father's birthday and Avogadro's number (6.022x1023).

I replaced my front tires since my old style MT/Rs were worn out. I think I scored the best tire deal ever. Two 100% tread, new style 32x11.50-15 MT/Rs mounted and balanced with disposal for $80. I wasn't about to complain about the fact that they mounted the new tires with the white letters in when the rears had the white out. It would usually cost $15 a tire just for dismount/mount/balance. The only bad part is that the tread on the new tires seems to be quite a bit wider. Fender trimming and a T-bar crank are in order.

I had BFG AT/KO 32x11.50 on those chrome rims. They cleared the body with no lift. I didn't ever abuse them though.

You could probably get something made locally for about half of the price of an ARB. The Hardbody bumper would require a 1.5" body lift or modification since the body sat higher off of the frame than the WD21.