KovemaN

I was pretty miffed when I found out my ratcheting wrench set included an 18mm and not a 19mm. I have never used the 18mm. WTF is 18mm used for anyway? If it helps 16mm should match up to 5/8"

PB Blaster and long wrenches. Sometimes those lock washers dig into the nuts much more than you would expect.

You can run 5.25" or 6.5". With the 6.5" speakers you will need a trim ring to raise the speaker so the magnet will clear the window.

I have that exact same wheel in my 1987 D21 except the color is blue. I think that 240s, 280s, 510s and 610s use the same wheel. Check out the MOMO steering wheel adapter hub cross reference. You might be able to figure out what is interchangeable by the part numbers for different applications.

If the axle housing is the same width you might be able to swap in some 31 spline axle shafts and 31 spline side gears. That would allow you to use the Lock Right 3220. Since you have to crack the differential case to install the Lock Right, swapping the side gears will be cake. Many H233b axle parts are interchangeable. When I'm done with the rear on my truck (D21) I will have a real Frankenstein. LSD third member from a Xterra, LSD clutch pack from a 1995 WD21 Pathfinder, 31 spline side gears from a 1990 WD21 and 31 spline disc axles from a WD21.

It seems like the dash mounted brake would make the most sense. If you retain the floor mounted brake, the cable would have to be extended and the lever would need a new position. With the transfer lever and shift lever in their normal places, the brake lever would have to be moved drastically.

For the speedo it's most likely the voltage regulator on the back of the gauge cluster. The only other places it could go bad would be at the sender (transfer case) or in the wiring between the sender and the cluster. Do your fuel and temp gauges work correctly? P.S. - I like my Pacesetters (third set for my Nissans).

I am absolutely positive that the bench will fit. I have swapped bench for buckets and buckets for bench on a D21. The seats and mounting positions are exactly the same from D21 to WD21. The only problem I had was with headers. I put headers on a D21 (4 cyl KA24E) with the dash mounted e-brake and the heat from the headers melted the inner cable liner and locked up the cable. The floor mounted e-brake cable dumps far away from the exhaust so it's not an issue. I have since replaced the cable and used insulated heat shielding to protect the cable. It's been working for just under a year now with no problems. The previous cable melted within a week. Make sure to post pics.

Sure. I'll get right on that. Right after I ask them to give everyone free health care while raising my insurance bill. Talk about impoverishing citizens. The CFC program was a blatant handout to the auto manufacturers, not an environmental policy move. I'm not sure if you noticed, but Canada has some of the richest reserves of natural resources of any country in the world. Somehow your elected officials have managed to keep those resources from making Canada a more prosperous nation. It's no secret that you cannot tax the citizenry into prosperity.

You need to get some kind of membership to that JY. How many times have you been there in the last month? BTW, I will be making a trip back there soon if you need me to grab anything.

I can't wait for you to post the pictures of the floor of the tranny donor. That was fun.

They're 30s too so even less of a chance of picking something up Have you ever used the screwdriver-through-the-filter trick to remove a stubborn one? They are not that easy to puncture even with the "proper" tools. Where the hell are you all driving anyway? Sticks can't bust that filter. The only thing that would is barbed or bailing wire, but they will also take a lot more with them. If you hit something that may puncture the filter, you will know and you should get out of the truck to check out WTF just happened. I think that MY1PATH should show us some pictures of where his filter is mounted. That cross-member sounds like a safe and convenient place.

The residual effects are mosly mental. I don't trust people at stop signs and I don't go through that intersection anymore. My neck still bothers me at times, but I've been hit a few other times. That was actually the second total loss for that truck. Driving in Phoenix can be bad for your health.

There is quite a bit of clearance and I've never had problems. The filter in that location even survived the front-ender that killed my last Pathy. It's also really easy to get to for oil and filter changes. If you are worried about puncturing the filter you could put a simple sheet metal shield over it. Most of the people I run over are too soft to puncture the filter anyway.

I put mine under the fender just behind the headlight.

I've got that damn whistle on my 95 too. I never heard it from my 92 though. It only kicks in around 3k and is most noticeable in the lower gears. I thought it might be the A/C tensioner pulley bearing.

My mistake then. I thought all of the VG30E ECUs had the high octane map.

Sad news indeed. I hope you and your nephew don't have any lingering consequences from the accident. I hope your lawyer rips that b@tch a new one. Having been there I know how bad it is to lose a big metal friend. It's been almost 18 months since I lost my Shakira. I'm in my third Pathfinder since then and I still miss that truck. Every time I see one in the same color I'm tempted to ask the owner if it's for sale.

The Nissans with knock sensors actually have multiple timing maps. When I use 91 on a regular basis I get better gas mileage from my trucks. In my D21 I get at least 10% better fuel economy from premium. The ECU will try to use the high octane map, but if it detects knock it will revert to the regular map. If no knock is detected the ECU will automatically advance the timing. That is the whole point of the knock sensor.

It supposedly reduces chatter or feedback from the clutch. Kind of like a shock absorber for the clutch line. It's more for comfort than performance. If you bypass it you will be able to "feel" the clutch better. They can wear out over time.

If the leak appears to be coming from the bottom of the tranny on the engine side I would say it's a rear main seal. That has been a consistent oil weeper on all of the Nissan D21/WD21s that I have replaced clutches on. It can probably wait until you need a clutch unless it's leaking profusely. The leak can shorten the life of the clutch though.

If you decide to cut the headers and have them welded back together you might consider having your exhust shop put a two-bolt flange in the middle. I did that before I installed my last set of Pacesetters and it made installation much easier.

I tested the spiral removers on my Nissan OEM locks and the smaller of the two worked fine. It was seated pretty deep though. It probably wouldn't work on my alloys, but it did on my Nissan chromies.

Precise1 has it right. Bleed the slave and then the damper. You can bypass the damper completely if you don't want to buy a new one.

If you have a Harbor Freight near by they sell a set of two "stripped" lug nut removers for around $5. They have a spiral cut on the inside that grips the outside of the lug nut or lock. Then there is the Gator Grip sockets. They have a bunch of pins on the inside so you only have to have a few sockets instead of a real set. They are kind of expensive though. An auto parts store may also carry the stripped lug removers.