Dowser

Alright.... 2 months later I can get back at this project for a couple of days! hahaha. Ok So I took some measurements of the Moog Heavy Duty Rod Bushings and the hole in the Mount, and by my Calculations, the bushing sleeve would ride in the center of the Hole with a gap of 0.1675 of an inch. That seems reasonable to me in my mind when I think of things like shock loading from something. And if the Bushing is sitting inside a cup that fits just right I don't think there should be any slop. I'm thinking perhaps Adamzan that if I don't leave enough room I'm going to be wearing those sleeves prematurely and then the Rod. Here's the Pick. Tell me what you guys think. (*edit) Oh and the bottom left picture was just of the inside bushing to the Beginning of the Taper since I wanted to see how much of the bushing would be left after it was sitting flush with the mount hole. Which in this case would leave me 0.213 of the 0.3805 all the way around.

Man I love the work you 2 do together. That is a sick ass bumper and if I was stronger I would come over and steal it. In all honesty though, you guys make me drool. I know yous were sort of winging it on certan spots of this but you guys are nuts if you don't Market these.

Nice Nige. You guys need to start making templates, cause when its finally time for my vehicle to leave its garage, that's one of the very first things I want to tackle and exactly what I had in mind. In my own design in my head I was considering the exact same thing... Unfortunately, Im more of a dreamer then a doer since I've lost my life to children. And about the grip from princess auto... Please take my advise. I've been skateboarding for over 20 years, and competitively for about 7 of those and I can assure you. There's grip tape, and then there's Real Grip tape. Do yourself a favor and get it from a skate shop because anything else is worthless in short order.

Oh man. I'm sorry. I wasnt trying to kill the moment for ya. Truth be told if I was ever to buy a new vehicle it would most likely be a toyota as well. They've got an excellent track record even with that last little drive by wire issue. Don't get me wrong, I think you've chosen a great truck and will no doubt be super happy with your purchase, I was just expressing my discomfort about paying so much on something that depreciates so fast. But as you said, Toyota's do hold their value significantly so its much less a loss compared to something like a Dodge Caravan. Also, on another note, since your paying the same shop rate no matter what whether you get their guru mechanic or some 1st year do yourself a BIG favor and ask the service manager about the mechanics and how many licensed techs and their number of years certified. Shops LOVE to brag about who they have to persuade you to not go to another dealership. Find out who the star mechanic is, and for EVERY service, tell the service people you'd like to book with that mechanic, No other, no exception. That way you'll have the same tech for the life of the vehicle so long as he stays with that dealership. CONGRATULATIONS on the new purchase man. You're gonna LOVE IT!!!! (Redemption?) *edit* I went back to read this whole thread today pretending I wasn't me who wrote those comments....... Wow..... I'm an asshole. Sorry again man. Didn't mean to come off like that but it sure seems that way when you read it. I promifse that when it arrives and you post your Pictures My First words will be much more supportive.

On that note, one more quick comment. Remember that all feces travels downhill. The same system applies at the dealership. The only time you can expect a top mechanic to be working on your rig is if it's a job that pays. Stuff that the mechanic can blow thru in 30 minutes even though the job pays an hour. The dealership I worked at, Their magic man used to take work orders from his bin, look them over and say, I don't want this crap, or this or this. You can give those away to someone else. But then you wouldn't see him hurting for work after that cause the service manager wouldn't want to piss him off enough that he would be looking for work elsewhere. Sooooo all those crappy jobs would go to other licensed mechanics who would also bitch and complain about something and it would get handed off to an apprentice who may or may not know what the hell they are doing. Just mentioning this cause I can't tell you how many times they gave me work I was DEFINITELY not qualified to handle. I spent more time annoying the licensed guys asking them what the hell I should be doing with this diagnostics ghost issue then actually working on the vehicle. Which also I might add ends up having the customer having to come back for repeated visits to track down problems that were thought to be repaired. At any rate. They still are nice trucks and I'd love to have one if I had the excess cash to throw around after throwing all the other excess cash I need to buy everything else I need/want first. <---- Rambling.

Well congratulations on the new truck. Even if it mean's the moment you drive it off the lot is begins depreciating instantly and you're stuck paying ridiculous payments for the next 4-5 years for an overpriced hunk of metal that will need to constantly be brought back to the dealership for Flash updates. Not too mention the check engine light likes to come on for just about everything from forgetting to tighten your gas cap to complete and total engine failure with the inability to see or understand what a large majority of the codes are unless you bring it to a Authorized Toyota Dealership to plug into their diagnostics. I'd personally never buy any vehicle new since the depreciation is so nasty. If I wanted new I'd personally go with newer. like 2 years old and save about a 3rd my money. Although I refuse to buy new since every vehicle build in the last 10 years is so heavily reliant on computers to run everything and anything that its more of a pain in the ass to fix then anything else. Now that I've completely ruined your moment and made myself probably look like an ass to you, I'd also like to say that I've always liked the Tocoma's and if I wasn't always worried about where every cent is going, I'd love to splurge for one as well. Enjoy the new truck.

provided your tire size is correct with what the odometer is designed for. Keep that in mind if you need to make other calculations.

Been to www.Roninwheelers.com? A lot of SAS's Nissan Guru's hang out there. Could give you a hand if you find less info here on the subject. My advise is to listen to what some of these guys have to say and don't argue. Especially Ryan Gee. He's done some seriously amazing stuff.

That's what I was taught as well. Its not air rushing in as many believe it to be. In fact, If you take a long ass drive and empty your tank, then fill up and don't hear that WHOOOOOSH.... Then that's more of a problem.

Just a quick Blurp about the O2 sensor. I know you said its a direct replacement from Autozone, but is it the actual Nissan O2 sensor. I remember people mentioning that the many aftermarket options for O2 sensors sometimes don't work the way they are supposed too. I think I recall Alkorahil mentioning the same thing and if I recall correctly then it might warrant more investigation before spending more cash elsewhere.

Go buy a 4x4 Post and cut it into some smaller sections to use as bracing at the very least. I'm sure you've thought of that but just a reminder.

You don't have to take the half shaft right off the diff but you will have to take it out of the steering knuckle. Take the Tie Rod off at the knuckle to make it easier and some take the lower shock bolt off to give a little more room. Really you should just go and download the FSM so you can see the step by step procedure and can feel more confident and safe while doing it. When taking the old Inner Bearing Cup out, use either a Brass Drift, or a piece of a wooden broom stick handle. Tap on alternating sides until it goes out. Getting the new one in though it has to go in STRAIGHT. Don't try to put it in on one side then on the other etc. And to test if they are taking you for a ride or not you can jack up your front end from under the LCA since the vehicle needs to be tested under load. It doesnt have to be high off the ground. an inch is fine. The take one hand on top of the tire in the 12:00 position, the other at the bottom at the 6:00 position, then Push in at the top while pulling out at the bottom, then push in at the bottom and pull out at the top. You're looking for ANY play. There shouldn't be any. If there is then your Ball joints are worn. As for wheel bearings, Give them a visual and determine yourself. Clean them well in a parts cleaner or varsol and make sure you get all the grease and grime out of it. There should be nothing but beautiful smooth surface on the rollers and the Cup, check the Cage that holds the Rollers for any damage as well. If you aren't sure when you get them out if they are ok or not, post them with GOOD quality photo's and we can let you know. Good luck.

Adding to this thread again cause its the best on the subject. A bit ago I asked how large the hole should be and I'm finally getting a bit of time to work on things. Here is a Picture of the Hole on the mount for the Tension/Compression Rod bushing with the Bushing sleeve sitting in the hole. One side is resting on the base of the hole and I want to get an idea on what you guys think as to the size of it and if it needs to be smaller or not. With the vehicle sitting in the garage and myself without a welder or much experience to weld confidently, I need to evaluate some of my options. I know I need to weld in some cups, but before I get to that I need to sort this issue out first. To big? Your thoughts.

A word to the wise. Although the 95's and R50's differ, you can bet there will be a inner seal there and to get the wheel bearing and race out you'll have to remove the seal. Purchase a new seal for the re-installation. Its always good practice to not try and reuse the old ones hahaha. Seals can be pricey when purchased from a dealership. I had to buy a seal that was $64.00 Canadian for my Passenger side because my daughter that was helping me decided to put her bucket of sand from her sand box next to the component with the exposed seal and got a ton of sand in it.

Take a look at this thread here too. Can get a bit of info on some members experiences with what they've been using, and I've linked a ton of winch manufacturers at the bottom. Winch Extravaganza

Hey man. I know the R50's and WD21's are obviously different but as far as I know, the Tranny is the same, and the engine blocks are Almost identical. From what I've read on other posts here from guys doing their's it's easier to remove the tranny. Although if you're thinking you could do all the other work like, Timing Belt, Cam/Crank seals, Water Pump, blah blah blah, then maybe you'd be better off pulling the engine. Regardless, There's a couple threads talking about a RMS job. For the WD21's Nissan charges 8.5 hours to do a RMS job. Once again, I know they aren't the same rigs, but might give you some answers or more questions about what else you could do while doing this job. May want to talk to a few guys that have done them here. unccpathfinder slick TerranoNZ Cuong Nguyen to name a few. Best of Luck. and here's a fairly decent thread linking to TerranoNZ's job. Link 1

All good man. I'm in no hurry since I'm still on Jack Stands. Just one of a 1000 Pathfinder projects to complete.

This was an Easy one. Search brought up this one we just talked about in December and again a couple months ago with someone else. Here ya go. Link. *edit* I just went in there and read it again and noticed you actually have a POST in that thread... Did that not solve the problem?

That's what Happened to me Precise when I bought a After market no name brand meant for us. Everything was there but the electrical connector was in a place so that it wouldn't fit on the reservoir without some dinking around. they are NOT the same. which is the reason I've been looking for a factory one.

Take a look at Tex's Rig in the members rides area as well. Page 3. He redid the whole interior with Arctic Camo. May try PMing him for a little info.

Possible to snap a picture of the area you fixed up to give others an opportunity to look into this themselves if they have similar problems but lack the knowledge of where to look?

The wheel bearings are very simple and shouldn't pose you too much trouble. You'll want a FSM handy though so I suggest downloading it from the forums. Before you start, you'll want to have not only the wheel bearings you need, but also some new seals, a bit of wire, and pick up some wheel bearing grease. You'll have to remove your auto locking hubs, Calipers,(don't let the calipers just hang down by the brake lines, Tie the calipers up with the wire so there is no tension on the brake line. Unless you want to replace those too.) and since your removing your rotors, its wise to loosen the bolts that attach them to the hub while the calipers are still on and you can have someone step on the brakes to avoid the rotors from turning. When removing the bearing cups, remember to use a Brass drift/punch or a piece of wood like a broom handle and alternate around while hitting. Obviously clean everything up for reassembly. I know, a no brainer. When installing the bearing cups, you'll want something to use that will keep the cup centered while pushing it in. Also something that will not damage the surface that the rollers will be running on. If while hammering if goes in on an angle, you'll damage something so dont try and hammer one side then the other to get it in. I also suggest buying a dead blow hammer. Probably one of the BEST tools you can buy that wont damage your components. To fill the new bearings with grease, put a glob of grease in your palm, take the bearing in the other hand and grip it with a few fingers and thumb with your fingers going thru the center. The bearings are tapered and make sure the smaller side is facing knuckles up. Then what you want to do is dig the grease out of your palm into edge of the bearing rollers using a little grease at a time, repeating the motion until you see grease start coming out the top of bearing, then rotate it a bit more and continue until the WHOLE bearing is filled up. Once that's done add a little more to the outside of the bearing. Don't forget the seal if your doing the inner wheel bearings before putting everything back together. You'll also want to be putting some grease inside the hub area between the 2 bearings. The FSM will show you when you download it. When installing the new rotors back on get them as tight as you can by yourself, then once you get it back on the steering knuckle, and you have the caliper back on,(remember to be careful when pushing the caliper pistons back in that you don't push fluid out of the reservoir in the engine bay. Brake fluid eats paint quickly. you can use a C-Clamp for this) I would again have someone hold the brake so you can tighten them up to torque specs. I would suggest new pads as well if your machining your rotors or buying new ones because the pads will have grooves in them. When installing the outside bearing there is a preload procedure that needs to be done. Its basically Tighten the nut while rotating the rotor to a certain Torque spec, then backing it off about a 1/4 turn. Again FSM will have info on this. Lastly, when installing the locking mechanism for that nut you just torqued and backed off, if your trying to line up the holes to attach the screws to it and they don't line up, move the nut looser not tighter until they match. You'll obviously have to bleed the brakes as well. This covers the fronts.

Find another Manual Pathfinder to buy, test out the tranny on a test drive, if its good, buy the truck and you have a Parts vehicle to take everything out of to fix whatever repairs will be coming down the road. A lot of this stuff you can do yourself man. Most of this stuff is not hard to do once you try it. Newer vehicles are a whole different bag. You can't even pump your gas without a check engine light coming on making you need to go to the service department to see whats the matter. Once you have a Tranny to swap, I'm willing to bet, theres members on this forum willing to help you out for some beer and some good times. Perhaps get your wife's friends over for them too.

Wow. Excellent reply with an actual explanation. I think I'll book mark this thread to use for reference for any other exhaust question in the future, which will no doubt be in the next few days. Nice work 510.

NPORA saves the day again.