Dowser

Well I think that's pretty ingenious if you ask me. I think its great to have options since everyones conditions and uses are different. To have all these varying options gives someone with no idea what to do for their situation the ability to work with ideas that would have been beyond their scope. Awesome work on the research man. And just in case that Summit Racing listing doesn't stay in that URL spot, the A/C Condenser that he found that was 18"(L)x 14"(H)x0.830"(THICK) was made by a company called Vintage Air. Manufacturer's Part# 03260-VUC. Vintage Air SuperFlow Horizontal Condensers I will no doubt grab the 11" x 11" x 1-1/2" with the 29200 btu and stuff it between the condenser and the Rad. I should still get more than adequate cooling. Now back to the RE4 Tranny a sec. Could the 2001+ version make use of the shift kits that are available for the earlier models or is that the issue they fixed?

hahaha I know its not necessary for me, but it was an idea none the less. Perhaps not for someone in my area of the world but there are others who may be looking for a solution that live in Hot climates and perhaps this could be a possible solution for their issues. Just exploring a possibility.

That's what I thought too but I couldn't for the life of me find anything to confirm it here. I'm sure I read it here and its been talked about several times I think in the past. So technically if you had a Tranny issue, instead of just rebuilding what you have you'd be better off looking for a Wreck from a R50, Xttera, or Frontier with the RE4 transmissions? Did they redesign or improve them at a specific point for all RE4 tranny's after that making them all better due to new engine HP, or we're they more vehicle/option specific. Meaning are there variations of the RE4 to look for in the wrecking yards. Can't wait to see what you've come up with. Keep me posted.

Hey Everyone. I've been searching for a few days now thru every Transmission related Topic I can find for a for something I remembered seeing and reading but have had no luck finding. Was hoping someone may be able to confirm, post a link, or educate me on the correct answer. Also a completely different question about The AC Condenser as well. First off. I remember at one time on this forum of someone saying that there was are Auto Transmission with upgraded internal components that came as a option in R50 models that would still bolt up to a VG30 Block. Something about it being a HD model Tranny perhaps a tow package or something along those lines. I cannot find the topic for my life and was wondering if anyone can post it or confirm. Second, I've been looking at the Tranny Coolers lately and although I am fully aware that a 29200 btu model is most likely overkill but that is besides the point. The one I was looking at was the B&M 70274 Model and as you can see from that link it has dimensions of 11" x 11" x 1-1/2". Now I'm sure it can fit in between the Condenser and the Rad but I was wanting to install it in front of the Condenser and as we all know that gets to be a bit harder since there is the brace in the middle to contend with as well as the depth issue between the condenser and the grill. The whole thing got me thinking that would it not be possible to get a Condenser that is perhaps Thicker, but takes up less real estate in the front of the Pathy. Or perhaps 2 that would take up the space of Half the the front but daisy chain them together back to back sitting them infront of the Rad. From my measurements theres about a 1-1/2" to about an 1-5/8's between the Rad and Condenser and about an 1-1/4 infront of the condenser to the Grill. Just speculating but do you think that the 2 smaller condensers would do as good a job to provide just as cold AC? My gut is saying no since there is less surface area for outside air to contact fins so even though capacity would be the same or perhaps a little bigger, the cooling properties would not be quite as good. I don't know much about anything other then making babies though so let me know what you think. My thoughts were if you could get half our front space free you could get a big tranny cooler with a fan on the front to not only cool the tranny but help the rad as well without space being an issue. Thoughts? Am I being ridiculous?

Not sure I want to know what you got STORED in there.

Going to Double post because I thought of something last night and thought I would hear what the you all may know. Now since my last post was referring to the Auto Tranny and how the Manual Jeep Grand Cherokee Center Console,(93-98) wont fit due to the location of our Auto's Shift lever, It got me thinking that perhaps the Pathfinder Auto tranny Shifter could be changed with another vehicle. I know that you can buy aftermarket shift kits for Automatics for racing and such, but I don't really see why you couldn't change over the shifter of an auto to some other vehicle manufacturer. If it's a wiring thing and connector issue, could that not be spliced appropriately to ours to function normally? Perhaps all one would need to do is not only pick up the Center Console, but the Auto Tranny Shifter as well and voila? Am I thinking too simple? Is it possible I could be paying myself $30.00 Dollars via paypal? *edit* Well upon further review and asking an expert, this is definitely a no go. This can't be done. My guess would be it's probably easier to fabricate an adapter to mate the 42RE & 44RE Transmissions from the JGC to our engines then it would be to what I was thinking might work. I suppose thats not worth a couple of cupholders is it. Oh well. On to the next theory when it pops in my head.

LMAO nice call man. I sat here for a while staring at the screen before I hit the POST button and was thinking.... "Dowser.... I think you're still high from the Tylenol 3's you've been taking because I'm pretty sure unengaging is not a word. Hmmmmmmm what the *my "vocabulary" is so small* is the word I'm looking for. Screw it... whats the chance someones gonna call ya on it. And besides I'll just put a little Bracket in there that shows people you are intelligent enough that you know." At any rate, I couldn't for the life of me remember DISengaging.

I'm with Pezzy on the wheel size issue as well. Price our 16" and 17" for the same wheels, and price out the same tires for a 16" and 17" rim. Then Multiply everything you just found out by 5 and check out your total difference. 16" would be your better option for not only performance for offroad, but for your pocket book hands down. Use the money you just saved for other upgrades like a Fluery's Skidplate.

I had a noise similar to that once a while ago. It was Awful sounding. I had the hardest time pinpointing the cause because it was pretty random when it would happen. For me it was the auto hub same as you but it turned out it was because it wasn't fully unengaging,(if that's a word) after I would take it out of 4x4. To get it to go away for me I would always have to take it out of 4x4, then back the vehicle up about 4-5 feet to be sure then go about my business. It would happen 90% of the time if i did not do this. I never went to a Manual Hub as you did, but what Nunya asked is what my thoughts were too. Perhaps the Manual hubs are still locked?

No..... Just paper weights. Sorry couldn't help myself.

Well. I thought I'd resurrect this kick ass thread because not only is absolutely brilliant for a manual, but ALSO because I want to offer the community a cash prize reward. I am personally willing to donate $30.00 via Paypal to anyone who can find a center console that will fit as nice as this one did on the manual tranny, but for the automatic owners out there. Obviously some minor tweaking will no doubt be needed just as the Manual version that JJ Big Shoe discovered. Perhaps a little cash may motivate some more then others. I'm attempting to REALLY eliminate the cup holder issue for Automatics once and for all. If any other members care to chip in to the pot, I bet in no time you are gonna see some real results. Thanks again JJ for your Ingenuity on the project.

perhaps because ring and pinion, lockers, chromoly axles, etc are cheaper for those more common axles. Perhaps the Dana they swapped in the front was a 5 bolt and instead of swapping knuckles like some do they just swapped whole rear ends. I'm thinking it was a combination of a lot of reasons but definitely sponsor parts going on for sure.

I haven't tried this. But if you replaced the ECU keep in mind that the ECU's for a Automatic and a Manual are different.

Today I remembered I have one sitting on 3 wheels in the garage.

I'd also like to mention that regardless if you've done some repairs over the last 4 years, you only paid $2000.00 for a quality vehicle that is as you stated, built like a tank. Real world prices for a comparable alternative is going to likely cost at least that much, plus safeties and additional repairs if they are needed. These vehicles are reliable and tough if they are taken care of,(key words) and there have been many who have gotten over 500000 miles on the engine. Most of your worries are cheap fixes with the exception of the timing belt, which is only expensive if you have someone else do the work since it is labor intensive. But with the tutorials and posts on this forum anyone could do it, not to mention the community of here with vast amounts of knowledge in all things Pathfinder Related. Even if the tranny does go as you husband suspects will be the next issue, that too can be replaced at a reasonable amount. The best thing about owning a older vehicle is that a lot of stuff can be repaired right were it stands and isn't obligated to be go to the dealership to be plugged into a computer. I had little to no experience with anything mechanical when I bought my First Pathfinder, a 91, but thru these forums I managed to do all the repairs to it that were necessary on my own. Go to the wrecking yard with some basic tools, take some door handles, find the door locking mechanism from the link provided above and follow the direction to solder the board. Buy the parts for a timing belt, thermostat, and whatever else it is you may need do to the rad leak after you are sure what it is and get your husband and kids to take it apart. Get both your kids to help so they get a basic understanding of how a vehicle operates cause later in life they may know enough to not get taken advantage of by garages with false quotes. Front end shimmy at speed may be the Lower Control Arm Tension/compression Rod Bushings that attach to the frame. The cups that they sit in are known to rust or break off. And finally, Download the Factory SERVICE manual from this site. It is KEY to understanding everything and simple to follow if you know how to read. Keep it alive. It just needs a bit of love. If you are uncertain about the Rad leak and what it is or where it is coming from, give us more details on here and we may be able to help diagnose the problem area more effectively and its free. Good luck. Keep us posted, and You really should give us a proper introduction. Let us get to know, and you us a little bit in the future. This community is the best out there for anything concerning Pathfinders and some of the nicest people I have ever met. I've received parts from all over this continent and even as far as New Zealand in an effort to aid with some of my repairs over the years.

Are we talking about the same hose? The little small 90 degree hose that sits between the cam gears, on the back side of the timing cover, to the left of and below the distributor? With all that crap in the way I don't see how you could get to the bottom hose clamp or to even break the old hose free effectively. Perhaps it can be done as I've never tried it and I'd be VERY impressed if all you need is a pair of Long extension needle nose pliers. Good luck with that. I'd be swearing a constant stream of obscenities Trying to do it that method I think. Definitely try that method first for sure.

As I stated in my very last post. That is one HELL OF A NICE TRUCK! It looks like it would be a hell of a lot of fun to drive. I'm Jealous of the truck but not of the 100 hour work weeks.

I dated a girl with that much slop before. I ended up trading her in for a better model. Glad to see you got on top of that. That looked like it must have been fun to drive.... if you're into bull riding.

That coolant bypass Hose is a Bear to get at. Basically have to tear it down in the same way that you do when you do the timing belt. While you got all that crap off and out you should do the timing belt, waterpump, cam and crank seals at the same time otherwise it will end up costing you more in the end. If you haven't done the timing belt yet then I would just get quotes for the timing belt, and then add the bypass hose cause the price is going to be similar anyway since there will be a fair deal of labor involved. Unless someone else knows of some miraculous trick of replacing the bypass hose without tearing things down. I'd love to hear of one if there is.

How bad are the boots split? A lot of grime and stuff in there? If not then I'd Do this yourself. Its easy. Buy some good quality boots from Rockford Constant Velocity get yourself the bearings and seals and do it yourself. Its really not that big a deal. You'll need a 12 point socket to take off the CV. Mark orientation on everything as you take it apart so everything goes back together exactly. Take the Whole CV assembly apart as much as you can to clean out he old grease. Check of damage or wear on the components. If they've gone to hell then You'll have to buy a CV new or used, but the boots themselves are like 11 bucks each or something like that so I'm thinking go with the cheapest option first. Just use the FSM its got everything you need to know about the CV stuff in it and bearings and seals. Once again, If you've done the timing belt job, most things are a piece of cake after that. Don't be intimidated. And a note on the Money pit thought. All cars need maintenance. Even new vehicles. Your Vehicle is 15 years old. Rubber wears out, components start to fail. and as far as paying $1000 bucks for a car and being stressed about an additional 3500 to put in..... How much do you think a monthly payment would be for a new 35000 vehicle Each and every single month if say all you put down was $1000 to purchase? 3 months goes by and I bet your at $1000. And that's not including Standard Maintenance. Over the course of the 4-5 years of purchasing the vehicle the 35000 dollar price tag is a lot more then that as well. If it were up to me, I'd buy a $1000 dollar vehicle and dump $34000 dollars into it to make EXACTLY the way I wanted it and drive it everyday knowing its custom for me and my lifestyle instead of purchasing the standard model and then being disappointed with all the crap I would' love to change about it.

On both my previous pathfinders I've owned,(a 91 and 92) the EGR's were stuck. I ended up replacing them both and that particular problem went away.

I also got quoted $900.00 from the dealership in Grande Prairie Alberta when I lived there. For 200 bucks I would have paid for it to get done instead of having to bother with it. So long as he's reputable and will stand by his work.

Well A bit of progress this weekend. Got some Cups machined for the bushings to match the Exact diameter of the bushings while under the torqued spec. Not only that but also Beveled to match the same angle of the Moog Bushings I purchased. While I was there I got him to ream out some Washers to a bit larger a size but I think I'm going to see how it rides as they are now with the holes as they are. Got a nice Price on these from a Machinist for a whopping $20.00 each side. Funny Story actually but I'll post all about that in my Own Build thread when I update it once these get welded in.

I bow down to your superior knowledge of everything search related. Thanks for this Amazing trick. You just saved me a lot of time.