Dowser

Welcome. Sorry to hear you're having a bit of trouble. Those senders have a bad reputation on many a pathfinder. Just out of curiosity, after putting that much time into in, something as small as a sender is going to get you to put it up for sale? Just wondering. Also, Mind putting up a picture of the center console swap you did? Like to see how it turned out.

Thanks for the save Adamzan. Ya I meant to type manifold but I'm a zombie right now. Been sick for a week with no end in sight, and my kids keep me utterly exhausted. At any rate, I meant the manifolds tend to warp if left for long periods of time with broken studs. Once you determine whether or not you have a manifold leak, you could always just play it by year. Get whatever broken studs out that are broken, if any are broken at all, then take the manifolds and run a straight edge on them to see if they are still true. If they are warped, get a price quote to machine, go to a wreckers and see if you have luck there, etc, and weight those options against getting the headers. If the price is within a couple hundred bucks I'd opt for the headers myself. If the manifold is still, fine, then reuse it and call it good. I just figured if you were doing exhaust anyway it could be a good time for an upgrade.

Thorely's aren't that expensive. Although they are more expensive then Pace Setters, You'll find not as many favorable reviews from the Pace setters brand. Stevo from Rugged Rocks is a member here that provides many products for our rigs and according to this link, the price is $469.95 and being a member here gets you a 5% Discount. That's a savings of $23.50 bringing the total to $446.45 before applicable taxes. Keep in mind that depending on how bad an exhaust leak is your manifold may be warped and need to be machined. Which may be an expensive requirement to keep your old manifolds. The Studs from nissan are quite expensive for what they are really. Everyone here will agree with that. I suggest speaking with our Nissan Parts Pimp, Alkorahil, in the Services area to get a quote. He can provide you with the best prices for Nissan replacement pieces hands down. If that is still too rich for your blood you can also get bolts like some other on here have down. I believe they have needed to tighten them after the fact at some point if I remember correctly. Once again, Pace Setters are considerably cheaper then Thorelys which may be another route.

Well if the exhaust is off and it hasn't been repaired yet, you should just look into Thorley Headers, or Pace setter's if no thorelys are available, replace the manifold with those, and however many broken studs you find, (I've never known a Pathfinder without a broken stud) replace with the much stronger grade nissan studs for the 300Z or go with bolts as some other have done. You'll be doing the Muffler and piping anyway so a little more can't hurt, and you'll get a bit more power out of the deal.

I'll make sure to clean any stains I might get on it before installation. ........ .................

Nice man. The only issue I can see is that the Pictures of the Tranny and transfer case weren't taken in your kitchen or living room. Can't wait to see how it turns out either.

Welcome Ian. Seeing how you're in Denver and want to maybe put a supercharger in your Pathy, You may want to take a look at the Ronin Wheelers forum as well. They are all a bunch of Nissan enthusiasts based out of Colorado and more then a few are very capable of doing anything you can think of with a Nissan. There's a gentleman that goes by the Username AK9849cy on these boards and Ryan Gee on the Ronin Boards that is planning on a supercharger install on his newest Pathfinder Project and there have been some developments in the past by a company that used to go by L&P performance. You guys should talk, you might be able to help each other and the rest of us to get something more developed out there. More information on this forum then any place else on the planet having to do with pathfinders in general. Your best friend will be learning how the search function works cause its almost a guarantee its already been discussed at length. Enjoy the new ride.

I can't take all the glory I'm afraid. its a topic that's been talked about numerous times over the years, I just went ahead and sent you a PM since your back in a Pathfinder Project. And for everyone out there, AK9849cy didn't mess around for a minute. No sooner did I send him a PM about the issue and linking the thread I had started a while back about paying someone with fab skills to make a bracket, he got back to me with 4 replies, the 1st one being 7 and 1/2 hours later acknowledging me, and the 4th reply 14 hours after my PM to him with a 1st draft welded product. He's sent me a lot of great material on the changes to that design to improve upon and to make it truly a "Bolt On" application without any messing around. Right down to the tapered washers to deal with the misaligned holes the bolt goes thru. This Whole process from initial PM, reply, 1st draft to 4th was 8 days and he doesn't even have a rig that can benefit from this since his is a low COG moderate wheeler with 1" lift. On behalf of the Community I say thanks for taking the initiative and making it happen so FAST. I'll be providing a Step by Step along with a review for this application once it arrives.

Those bumpers are available to purchase.

Voltmeter, Transmission Temp, Engine Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Differentials Front and Rear temp, Fuel Pressure, etc There's lots of things to play around with.

I was thinking about those Tweeters too when I originally posted thinking I would be happy with a design with 2 pods, but thinking more clearer on the subject I could care less if those tweeters work or not so I'd be more then happy with a 3 pod design. I'm thinking if anything once we gather 20 people we could put it to a vote and go with the final decision based on that.

So this will be the Official Update Page for this project. If any of you are interested in seeing the most current status, this will be the place to find it. The price quote for the 3 gauge, no tweeter design is $54.99 The unit comes in standard black with the option for interior color matching for an additional $7.99 The Minimum order number is 20 and additional orders will not bring the price down. We have 23 people who have Committed to purchase and a total of 24 orders. Legend Orange - Members who have received their purchase, everything perfect. Green - Members waiting for their purchase to arrive. Purple - Members who have received their purchase but with problems. (wrong color, damage, etc.) Here are the 23 people who have Committed to purchase out of 28 original. A total of 24 orders. Project Contributors Precise - 2 (NPORA) - Products received Dowser - 1 (NPORA) Adamzan - 1 (NPORA) sewebster - 1 (NPORA) puckstoper9 - 1 (NPORA) alabama_lowlife - 1 (Infamous Nissan) tmoore4512 - 1 (NPORA) RedPath88 - 1 (NPORA) theexbrit (vegabond) - 1 (NPORA) scoobysmak - 1 (Infamous Nissan) dvdswan - 1 (Infamous Nissan) KENDIG (Infamous Nissan) SnailPowered - 1 (NPORA) Koveman - 1 (NPORA) teixeira - 1 (NPORA) lower byhalia - 1 (Infamous Nissan) calicraig - 1 (Infamous Nissan) Inyourface1650 - 1 (Nissan4wheelers) Bucket-List - 1 (Infamous Nissan) snowboard419 - 1 (NPORA) 4EyedTurd - 1 (Infamous Nissan) edicer2 - 1 (NPORA) Harbinger - 1 (NPORA) Interior Color Options Red - Already sent courtesy of alabama_lowlife from Infamous Nissan Light Grey - Already sent - courtesy of David29 from Infamous Nissan Dark Grey - Already sent - courtesy of alabama_lowlife from Infamous Nissan Dark Brownish Grey - Already sent - courtesy of David29 from Infamous Nissan Brownish Grey - Already sent - courtesy of David29 from Infamous Nissan Tan - Already sent - courtesy of David29 from Infamous Nissan Blue - Already sent - courtesy of alabama_lowlife from Infamous Nissan Light Blue - Already sent - courtesy of David29 from Infamous Nissan Black - Not needed, company makes in standard black The sample A-pillar piece for them to use for a mock up and to give us a more accurate quote has been sent in. (alabama_lowlife) Color Samples have been sent in. (alabama_lowlife and David29) Photos of the interior with the Pillar in place have been sent. (Dowser) Mock up trim piece with Pods attached has been sent to me for test fitting. It's been tweaked for proper positioning and angles and is packed up for return shipping. (Dowser) Money has been collected, payment sent to the company. (Dowser) Product is finished and being sent out to project contributors. (All of you! Nice work everyone We're all finished! Before you know it, a 3 Gauge Pod A-Pillar will show up at your door. Thanks again to the crews at NPORA, Infamous Nissan, and Nissan4wheelers for helping to make this a reality. It couldn't have been done without everyone's support, trust, and influence.

Where do I sign....

Happy Birthday Guys! Hope you had a good one Adam.

*raises hand* I KNOW! But I'm not telling.

You didn't read the whole thread did you........................ Second link I posted, Post #5 mentions what their company provides for which springs, And if you do a little bit of and study you will be more informed then having someone just tell you everything. Good luck.

Yes. That, combined with the 2" suspension lift will give you 6 inches of lift overall. Which at this time, is the best option available without compromising too much of the vehicles reliability. Again, you must understand the whole picture as well. Adding the suspension and sfd lifts and utilizing larger tires, you will also be in need of changing out other components as changes to one thing affect other things. Its a snowball effect so make sure you do your homework before just jumping in. To get a reliable ride, with that much lift, it can get a bit pricey. Start asking some of the other members here with the SFD lifts what the total cost has been from them, take all of their answers, and average it out. that will give you a ballpark.

Here you go. All this can be found on the site. You just need to spend some time with the Search function. This is from the Vendors section. Link

Read this thread. Yes I know its long. Yes I know it will take you forever to get thru it. But when You're done, if you still have questions you will have more understanding as to what we are saying. Link

*edit* Phanotm01Pathfinder beat me to the Post button while I was typing. No. Not exactly. You don't have a frame to lift the body up off of. Your Pathfinder is a Unibody construction, meaning the frame is part of the body. What that kit is, is a Sub Frame Drop kit. It allows you to lower the subframe, Which is what is used to hold your front differential and suspension in place, By lowering the Front subframe, you allow yourself more clearance for Tires, a bit more front suspension travel, and a bit better belly clearance. IFS (independent front suspension) rarely yields more then 2-3 inches of lift due to the fact that other components, mainly CV's, are outside of their operable limitations. This is about the best thing you can do without swapping a Solid axle under your rig, which is highly technical, expensive and requires a lot of custom fabrication.

How did you determine the direction of the mounts when welding the final section to the frame. In the final picture you've got it so they are facing what looks like straight down. I haven't got the Pathfinder here right now to go and take a look at the factory mount to see if you just mounted it the same way as factory, or if you are mounting it that way to maximize down travel, or for some other reason I haven't a clue about. One other question. Once you get it all sorted out, and get a feel for it, could you give us some feedback on how it feels driving as a daily driver. How it responds with the changes vs stock, and how it compares to your original Red 4 door design with the Raised spring mount and long arm system. I've been planning to do something like that since your original write up with the only worry being highway handling. I thought I read somewhere that you said that it was always more comfortable at 5 mph then 55. I'd be happy with less travel so long as I could get my family around in it safely. Kick ass work as always, and great write ups.

If you buy another stock centerlink, and do even moderate wheeling, you have a good chance of damaging the new one as well. Especially with larger tires. The stock design is terrible and uses a balljoint style system on both the Idler/pitman arms, and tie rods. The issue is that it allows for a large degree of twisting and ends up messing up the centerlink. Grassroots, as you can see replaces the Idler/Pitman arm side to take a bolt, and I have not heard of any issues with the new design ever having a problem once being replaced. With less torsional twisting in the steering, It basically moves the weak point to another area. In this case it would most likely be the Idler Arm. That can be strengthened with an Idler arm brace, and adding some metal bracing to the Idler arm itself. This can be applied to the Pitman arm as well.(there are lots of topics here on that, search) Doing that shifts the weakest link to the Tie Rods where it should be. Bring spares already set to the exact lengths of the currents for both sides, and You wont have a huge issue out on the trail. Don't waste your money on the factory centerlinks.

How dare you post all this information without even a single photo! That's just criminal! Sounds like a great rig! I haven't got any info on the intercooler I'm afraid since being from North America they aren't too common, but I just couldn't let this thread go by without yelling at you for Pictures. Good luck with the future mods.

Oh Tungston........ I'm gonna buy you a shirt somewhere that has a picture of a foot in a mouth. Perhaps you've never seen anything that Ryan has ever built before. He's a Family man, Well versed in making anything and everything work and work better then most actual manufacturers come up with. His designs change as function needs, and lastly...... Do you really think that he would just pop a handle like that on a stock a pillar of a Totally built up 4x4 truck without thinking perhaps that it wouldn't be safe? Nevermind.... not my argument..... just thought I'd mention that it would have been better to ask if its going to secure enough then claim he's doing it wrong. Just sayin. By the way.... kick ass handle. Love the addition of the cap opener for the Passenger to use.

To be honest? For the extra cost, and it is excessive for studs, I'd go with the dealer Z studs. Its tested, proven to work, right size, and you'll have piece of mind later that the new ones wont break. Just my