Dowser

I think this is a no go. I checked into this a while ago because I was just going to swap to a manual rad because I thought it might be a bit thinner, but from what I was told at that time, they all came with the same rad. If you had a manual, you just got the rad with caps on the auto cooler ends. Well that's what I was told at any rate, perhaps our Parts Pimp can chime in if that is an incorrect statement.

Man, all of your how to video's are put together excellent! Great additions to the forum and much appreciated by me at least.

And the price to fix them is calculated exponentially.

Not sure if you've ever looked into this option or not But I'm a SCUBA diver and I know you can get some adapters for them to use a Air tool Quick connect. A steel tank can hold around 3000 psi. The only issue I'm not sure of is who fills it. Obviously if you were to want to fill it as a Diver you would just go to the dive shop and have them fill it but you need a dive license for that. I've never bothered to look anywhere else to see who can fill to that PSI. The reason they require filling at a dive shop is becaiues you don't use the same kind of air that a compressor usually puts out for diving. (incase you didnt know that)

Just thought I would Update this for you Precise. Here's Precise's Solution. He likes to make these for free to every Nissan Pathfinder owner world wide and sometimes pays you to take one of them. Hows that for a URL link.

Video No longer uploaded. Can we get this updated?

Mine was stuck in the ON position for about 3 years. Just noisy. I was driving it around in -40 degree Celsius weather as well without issue. Temp just took a little bit longer to get up. At any rate, As stated, better to have it stuck in the ON position then not engaging. Could be a great time to do a Electric Fan swap so you can turn it off when you wish too.

I'm going to have to call Rough Country and Complain. My set never came with that Wrench you got Precise.

Sure would be nice to see some.............. PHOTO'S!!!!

Ya that site has been around for a few years. It was posted here a few years back. I vaguely remember some members on here looking into this further at one point, but, like a lot of other things that happen on the boards, no follow up posts and then it slowly died into the past. I can't recall any of the specifics but I think someone showed concerns that there was no Front Driveshaft shown in the pictures. I'll try to find it but no promises. I'm glad this was brought back to light though. It will be nice to get some more info on the specifics.

It doesn't get any better then that folks.

I just noticed I used the term "Jesus" when talking about an Earthquake in Christchurch............ Is that considered bad karma? Lets just........."pray" that you guys can get into that new facility soon. I'm sure anything would be like "eden" compared to working in there.

Jesus man. What a tough break for sure. I've been thinking of you and your family down there since the media came out with the Aftershock headlines. Well I'm glad to hear you're physically doing fine, but I sure hope this doesn't kill you guys financially. Just as Simon said, whatever we can do to lend a hand man, let us know.

There is a wire schematic of this set up already on these boards with a write up form I think JJbigshoe. I'll see if I can find it and edit this post. *edit* Found it but sadly the pictures have disappeared. perhaps PM him and he may have them on his PC somewhere. Here's the link. Ta da.

It is an ABS sensor. They are on the Pathy Axles as well. My guess the other is for dealing with the speedometer.

I'm betting the problem is the 15x10 wheels with whatever backspacing they have. I had my 33x12.5's on a 15x8 with 3.75 backspacing, and never had an issue at all. I wouldn't be concerned with running 12.5 on a 8" wheel either since I ran mine at 10 psi thru pretty crappy environments and never ever lost a bead. Perhaps the only thing to be weary of is maybe getting some sidewall scrapes.

Whats the WMS, and Gearing on that axle? Open or LSD?

I think your going to start breaking other components due to the weight of the tires personally. Check the weight differences between tires, and let us know. I'm curious myself. If you're rubbing with 33's due to the width, perhaps it can be addressed with different backspacing on rims. You're tires do look a little wider then 12.5 really and they look to be sticking fairly far out of the fenders then when I had mine. I used 3.75 and the only placed WI rubbed was on the front frame rail cause I took the knuckle bump stops off. (not advisable for those thinking about it after reading this) And also, for the cost of tires, and what not, perhaps it would be better to buy a cheap set of different UCA's, the front diff drop down bushings, and ditch the Trailmaster lift altogether? Perhaps it would be a better option if belly clearance is the ultimate problem.

My list would be like typing out the PoHo thread so I'm going to just leave it at that.

I remember reading somewhere that the 90-92 m30 had a few issues with the ECU's. Like it would randomly stall, or not start. I can't recall where I read that now but has anyone else heard this before? Also, These ECU's are getting very difficult to find up here in Canada. Usually wreckers here toss out anything 15 years old now. Making it substantially harder to ind stuff for me. I checked Ebay for the ECU's as well and I got 2 hits, each being about $95-100. There was some differences in the serial numbers obviously but I've been curious what the numbers refer to. These were the numbers. A18-A09 K31 (1990 ECU) vs. A18-A08 K30 (1992 ECU) Just thought I would put that out there.

Congrats guys. I can only hope that the forums wont turn Pink now. And as for Simon I already thought of you as an admin anyway. Well..... Sort of.... My thinking is if you're legally shagging an Admin its as good as having the power yourself. Congrats on both!

Perhaps the import market makes more per sale on a vehicle then Domestics but I know at least with Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep there wasn't a huge markup on vehicle sales. They'd make about 3-6 grand on a sale depending on make an model. Our particular dealership was very busy with vehicle sales, but at the end of the month I remember the owner mentioned the service department made higher profits monthly. Perhaps he was referring to the profit margin and not gross profit. All I know is most of the service bills were pretty freaking brutal. Maybe that was due to the fact that a lot of the vehicles being serviced were work trucks for Oil Field related industry. Perhaps I made a generalization but in my limited experience that was what occurred.

So are you saying thats a way to eliminate the Torsion bars all together? I've never seen that sort of setup before. Would be interesting to see more on that whole setup.

I would also like to clarify that since I forgot to in my initial post, that I would much rather go to a dealership if I had to bring my vehicle into a shop. For all of the above reasons stated by Simon, and 5523Pathfinder. If you're going to take it into the dealership, then ask them that you would like them to have a certified licensed tech work on it and not an apprentice and that you will be willing to book it for a convenient time if necessary. Most licensed techs are fully booked since that is the dealers bread and butter and since they are getting paid the most, they keep them stocked. Find out which tech is working on it, and as said, see if you can perhaps talk with him/her briefly. Inform them that you are looking for a Technician to service your vehicle for the remainder of its life and you'll see right off from their body language or attitude whether or not they are interested in being that tech. Hell you may not even want them to be the one but its good to get a feel for what kind of tech they are. Some techs are all about Gravy work and anything they can do to cut a corner to make up time they'll do and that type of mechanic can be found at Any repair shop with a flat rate system. What you want is a Mechanic like 5523! hahaha One that takes pride in the dealership, his work, and is willing to communicate with the client to explain things when necessary. Not to say that some apprentices aren't excellent mechanics, but some aren't and with a license you do get some degree of a guarantee. Once you find one, when its time to book it in, make sure you specify that you would like the specific tech to work on it otherwise the front desk will book whoever is not busy at the earliest available time slot.

The only time I would take my vehicle to a dealership is for things that are diagnostic related in NEWER vehicles. The industry is moving in a direction that is making it substantially harder for independent repair facilities to diagnose the problem with scanning equipment. By law, the manufacturer only has to release information dealing with certain areas and all else is covered under a privacy law that allows them to keep there technological secrets. so to speak. As the industry progresses you will see more and more private repair shops slowly dwindling away. Even now there are lots of issues that they will have to send your vehicle off to the manufacturer dealership just to gain access to the full diagnosis and repair process. Newer vehicles are so Computer reliant for EVERYTHING that without access to the manufacturer diagnostic computers you're going to have a harder time repairing problems properly in the future. One small example of this. When I was living in Northern Alberta, our small town of 3400 had a Chrysler/Dodge/Jeep dealer, and a GMC dealer. Nothing else. The closest Ford Dealership was an hour away. The Town also had a satellite campus for NAIT (Northern Alberta Institute for Technology) and was very well equipped with various diagnostic equipment that was leading edge and current. While I attended there, One of the students had a 2008 Ford F150 and sometimes when we finished all there was to do, we were allowed to work on our own vehicles to kill the time. He decided to do a brake job and picked himself up some new pads and we machined his rotors. After putting it all back together, and bleeding the brakes his vehicle was pulsating so badly and there was hardly any braking action whatsoever. The reasoning was that the vehicles ABS sensors needed to be cleared and readjusted and no other diagnostic equipment but Ford's would allow you access to that area since they had some patent on the special technology that their vehicles utilized. So he ended up having to drive an hour with virtually no brakes to have them hook up their computer, clear everything, and then following the computer's commands, you bleed them accordingly. The computer does its thing to the ECU while you're bleeding and voila..... you have brakes again. He shoveled out a fee and off he went. At any rate. You can see what I mean. The bulk of the money that goes into automotive is not in Vehicle purchase. They make very little on vehicle sales. Its on Repair work and there is no better way to secure your company's future then to make sure that the only way they can fix their vehicle, is to bring it back to a Dealership for repairs. As for us older WD21's. Do EVERYTHING you can by yourself until you cant anymore. That's the beauty of owning older vehicles now. ya you have more repairs cause they are older, but you can do almost everything yourself.