Dowser

Hey right on Bama. Nice score. Something I forgot to mention about the color options samples. They want them labeled with whatever color the Factory calls them so that people ordering them later will know what to ask for. I was thinking about the whole K color thing and how it labeled the same but differs in the 94-95 stock. Did the company ever have actual Names for the colors, I'm gonna go out on a limb here and say they didn't call the interior Rapist Red. Updated main list for you Nefarious.

Added you to the list. This makes 20 officially due to my counting issue earlier. Alright. So I spoke with the company again yesterday to get an idea of how to proceed from here. Here's what was said and proposed by the company. Basically we can go ahead and send the A-Pillar piece to the company without all the color samples at this point. They wont be needed for quite some time and it was expressed by them that its alright if it comes s from 5 different people from all over the country so long is they are labeled with the Project Leader name/email address, Vehicle Make model and the vehicle year range the A-Pillar covers. Now, Bama, they also require you to do one other thing before sending the A-Pillar They want you to Mark a line on the trim piece to show the Lowest point the bottom Pod can be mounted without hitting the dash. and write down what this line represents. Also, we need to get several pictures of the interior Pillar IN the vehicle, since the don't have a vehicle to reference from. I'll be able to get those and send them this weekend. After the sample A-pillar is delivered to them, along with the Pictures, they put something together, then give me some Real numbers within a Business week. Alright.... so here we go.

Was away for the weekend. Alright then. Bama..... That would be great! Thanks a ton. Before sending though there are a few other things required. We need a color sample from all available stock colors as well. They say a 4" x 4" piece so I was thinking the removable panels in the storage area. There's the basic 5 I believe. - Rapist Red - Blue - Actual Grey (newer dash color) - Brownish Grey - Brown That's it right? So lets just give it a second before sending off the piece till we have everything together. Might be a nuisance if we have a few packages with random color samples coming from different places at different times so lets get that together as well. I'll give them a call tomorrow and see how they would feel about that. Sure would be nice to not have to mess around with paint and just be able to install it. Damn it...... Good catch. There was a lot of cut an paste going on that night and I was pretty tired. Editing that tonight. Alright.... Comments concerns so far?

*Updated Page 1, Post #10 for contributors, We're at 20! See if I can get some more interest on some other boards, that will bring down the initial price. Updated January 21, 2012.* There will be a bit of a delay with getting my spare A-Piller off to the company till after next weekend. I was scheduled to make a trip up to get my spare this weekend but its been bumped to next weekend. Sorry for the delay all. If anyone else has a spare with the tweeter that they can either grab from the wreckers for next to nothing, or own one already and doesn't mind please feel free to get this started but let me know so I can contact them about the findings and get us some solid figures. Thanks all. I'm going to get this started on a few other Boards tonight I hope if don't fall asleep at the PC.

offtourRoadie96, be careful with buying those off ebay. They aren't the original Safari and are made from a completely different material. From what I've heard, it's not nearly as durable and doesn't stand up to UV radiation very well either. Do some more searching on this subject before commiting. Just a heads up. And PaMountainbiker, Nice work. The gaps everyone has commented on the fender are going to be just wide enough to fit something to cover it with which is what I'm assuming you were going for. Looks great.

Hey man. I lived up in Northern Alberta where it got to -54C a couple of times and worse with windchill and I can tell you this is what I did. First things first, Tick these off your list if you have them and acquire them if you do not. - Block heater - Battery Blanket - Transmission Pan heater pad - Power steering heating pad. - Front Grill wind block With those, and use either 0 or 5 weight oil for the worst of the year and you'll be running like a top, The power steering one is a choice but I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Got to love that high pitch whine you hear as you pump tries to force that cold oil thru. It's just screaming for warmth. Also I got to see what diff oil looks like on one of the coldest days when wwe removed a diff cover outside without draining it. It just sat there like an ice cube . Pretty interesting. Good luck with the cold.

Ya, I have a space here, its just a matter of getting time to get it since its 30 minutes from me and then dealing with this retarded Canadian Postal Service now. Such a rip off. That's nice of you to offer up the spare to save me on shipping but I think its best to go with the one with a tweeter on it because he mentioned that he may be able to have 3 pods, AND still make use of a factory tweeter spot so we'll have to see. Well, that's really nice of you to offer for sure, but if its 2 hours away, that's a lot of gas money on you. a lot more then me just sending one out for sure.

As discussed initially, this project needed a leader to organize and handle from start to finish or it doesn't get done. No one was taking the job and I'm personally interested in seeing this completed so took the position. I've been around a long time here on the forums and have had many dealings with many members here. I'm reliable to deal with as many can vouch for and the whopping $40-60 dollars each will be required to deposit, when we get to that stage, would be safe. That part wont be until I have confirmation from the company for a go ahead anyway. At this stage, its just about trying to get a minimum of 20 orders together first. Hey thanks! That's an honorable thing to do right there for the Pathfinder/hardbody enthusiasts out there. This is about the only chance we're going to have to get something like this available for aftermarket now. No one is going to make a product for such a small market anymore on their own. Yes. I spoke with them today and after the mold is made, its no big deal for them to put one unit out after that for anyone interested. Basically our order makes the mold making process worth their while. After the mold has been made, its golden. Also while on the phone with them I asked about the difficulty in perhaps making a mold for the 2 gauge pod to utilize the tweeters for those still interested, then seeing if after the mold is made if they could just add another pod and make a second mold to keep everyone happy and get 2 molds made at the same time. He said there's no way because its a entirely different process and would have to be a separate mold. So before we start we'll have to take a vote and see how many members are still interested after that point. Secondly, I'm going to take an A-piller and sent it to him to get a more realistic price and to see if he can put 3 gauge pods in and still utilize a space for a tweeter, so that's still an option maybe. I'll be sending that off maybe sometime this week, unless someone near Durham, North Carolina wants to go to the company to let them see what they are working with. I'll get this out to other boards as I have time. Things are a little hectic as usual at them moment.

It would have space for 2-3 gauges on it depending on what the majority wants in the end. At any rate, I posted up a thread at the Infamous Nissan.com forum about this. Not sure if anyone will be able to read this withouta registration but here's the link to the Thread. Only 10 more to go, HALF WAY THERE! Again, I'm surprised not more are interested from here really.

Uh oh. I've heard that before. This is either going to be really Cool...... Or I'm going to cry like the day the old red got abandoned. Seriously though. Can't wait to see some updates.

Thanks for the video upload except for the porno style moaning now and then. I know you love your truck and everything, but..... Did any hardbody's come with rear disk brakes? You look like you have drum style brakes and perhaps there's a difference with setups. I always thought they had a foot activation by the hood release. I never knew it was along ass handle next to the center console. Interesting.

I just went to my local yard for the same thing. for a 94-95 its a 1"5/8 or a 41MM Socket. I'll tell you what else. They don't like to come off. I brought a 2' Breaker Bar, A can of PB, a BFG, a deep impact socket that fits the handle of my breaker bar and a 1 foot extension for it for extra leverage as a cheater bar. After all that, and no luck, I used the closed side of a wrench on the end of my extension to give it another foot of extension. basically a 4' bar and pulled like hell. All I was going to accomplish was bending the breaker bar. I tried shocking it with the BFG on the bar as well to no avail. My yard charges $50.00 if you need air from one of the drivers driving around. I opted to use my own and haven't gone back to break it loose yet. Don't forget a Pitman arm puller and good luck. *edit* The socket information was handed to me from Precise when I asked about 2 weeks ago. Just a shout out for you B.

Really? I've never had them ever engage while stuck on the previous 2 pathy's I owned while stuck stationary. If the vehicle had a little bit of movement forward to back and you're careful on the pedal as you mentioned, then I could get it to engage, but when I've been stuck without any movement, I've never been able to get them to engage. Just rear wheel spin digging. I even used a high lift to get my front wheel off the ground and rotated each of them manually to engage them. Then got it out on its own power. I was told it was necessary to have the tire rotation to engage them and that made sense to me from my experience.

If you got it stuck in 2 wheel drive THEN switched to 4wd then they would not be able to engage. Autos need a full wheel rotation to lock in, so if your front tires aren't moving because your stuck, you're not in 4wd. A lot of people forget this and drive until stuck then think they can just get out with 4wd. its better to engage 4wd before getting stuck. OR, switch to manual hubs and never have this problem again. Just thought I'd mention that in case that was what happened.

MY1PATH discussed having issues with his drive shaft running on the crossmember after swapping his axles from left to right to deal with the tight parking brake cables. from what I recall from that thread you could either notch the crossmember, which I would think unwise unless you reinforce it some other way, limiting straps, or put shim in between the tranny and the cross member effectively raising the tranny a small amount to give more clearance at the drive shaft. Here's a link to that conversation. BOOYA. About the panhard rod, if you pick up a panhard rod drop down bracket, that problem and others, solved. A few Links, Conception, Product, Install Hope that helps.

Just bumping this cause we've had quite a few new members lately and perhaps some may be interested. Also.... Anyone follow the D21 Truck lowering scene? perhaps theres a forum out there that someone knows about that they could post up here. We can get in touch with them and see if there is any takers from the D21 side of things. I never thought finding 20 people for this would be an issue but apparently not as many people want this after all. Post up if your interested and I'll add you to the master list and any party's no longer interested inform me to take you off........ And knock you out.

That's funny. I JUST started a conversation about swapping a parking brake from a hardbody to a pathy in November. Here was the actual link to it cause I didn't know the particulars involved. Blam. Think you can give us a bit more of what actually needs to be done to make this a straight forward swap? I want cup holders as well and I see no reason to have an e-brake taking up such VALUABLE real estate. Perhaps in that other thread so as not to take away from this one. Once again..... envious.

I read that and my first thought after reading, BEFORE reading the comments was, "WHAT? 90 points to WARN for labeling and remote? Talk about taking care of advertisers." I'd also like to point out the products MSRP was not posted for these tests. WARN would have got some low scores in that department. WARN makes good quality stuff, that goes without saying, but I'm with the people who commented on that site.

Thought about modifying the Front diff support? Theres a guy on here, cant recall the name offhand, who cut and rewelded the support brace so the mounts to the frame are the same but the Diff support sits about... 1/2" to 1" lower. Corrects the CV angle more and it's just high enough that the bottom of the CV's don't make contact with the LCA. That can allow for a little more lift in the front. Not anything close to 4 inches mind you. Here's a pic. Also, I say a picture on here of a Terrano from Japan or Indonesia I think...... But they had a completely unique LCA lowering arm so that you keep the Torsion bars still at factory levels, tucked up nice and safe. It's really hard to describe to say the least and Try as I may, I cannot find where I put that photo, but its on here. SOMEWHERE..... It was really cool. Perhaps someone else will remember and have the image saved.

It's easy enough to test. Undo the Panhard Mount on the Body side, and loosen the axle side so it wont be under a ton of stress when you try to lower it out. Jounce the vehicle to settle everything then remeasure. Might take you 30 minutes to an hour. If its not that, then no harm done right? Just tryind process of elimination. Thats a hell of a lot cheaper then buying new springs, and less time consuming then trying to adjust the ones in there right now.

Or want his insurance to increase with a claim.

To be perfectly honest, why do you have your heart set on that lift? From everything I've read on them it's actually the worst lift kit available due to the fact that it lowers the T-Bar Anchors so low. You belly clearance becomes an issue and its way more susceptible to damage. I believe it's the more expensive way to lift as well. Yes it offers 4" list, but not without its own issues. Have you thought about any other methods?

The main price difference between the Canadian and US prices are as Adamzan said. The cost of Glass. You need to remember we live in Glorious Canada where we don't make Anything but rather export raw materials and import finished goods. The glass you are buying is probably the very same glass the US shop is going to use. The difference is going to be the fact that the shop here is going to be buying that same glass at US pricing, so currency conversion applies, then Shipping, then duty/importation fees, then mark up for his business. So the end result is always much higher for the same goods here. I live in a border town and I can tell you that its absolutely retarded that the severity of pricing from one side of the bridge to the other for the exact same product can be so different. Free Trade my Ass..... Thanks a TON Brian Mulroney.

Just to Clarify, I suggested Panhard Bar because when you lift the rear end, and the Panhard bar is no longer level, you usually have a harder time lining it back up without exerting some force to line it up, (ie raising the axle to the body, compressing the suspension) Once its back on and sitting unlevel, there is some force at work here since the suspension is working against the only link that is keeping it compressed. the link on the body side if removed, would relieve some of that pressure. Yes the Panhard will effect this slightly if it is not set up to its proper geometry.

Undo the Panhard Bar and see if that takes up some of the issue. it tend to pull the Pass Side down a little if you haven't got a drop down bracket.