Dowser

BOOOOO! I thought this was a thread with pictures of a woman mounting a Compression rod. I'm so disappointed. Although I recall others on here talking about it in the past I've not yet seen pictures or heard confirmation of it being done. Something about it though doesn't sit well with me. If you look at how the Compression rod sits on the underside of the LCA, it seems to me that the outside edge of the LCA may help soak up energy associated with shock. The rod sits right up against it partially and I can't help but think it helps in some way with bracing. If it were mounted from the top, it would have nothing on the sides and all forces would be through the bolts. Maybe I'm completely off base here, but its food for thought if nothing else.

You got it. PM sent. Thanks B. I suppose I should have let everyone know you sent me an email days and days ago after all my shenanagains. I still got you up for 2 so let me know if that changes. Post #10 on Page 1 Updated. Also. I think I'll ask all you Committed members out there, (and I'm referring to the "committed" term in a non mental health sort of way. ) when would be a good time to RE-remind those members that PM's have been sent to, that they have not responded yet. I don't want to seem too pushy. But I don't want people to lose interest either and technically nothing can go forward with what we have currently since we haven't got enough Committed members yet. Let me know. Cheers.

Alright..... SOooooooooooooo This is a reminder to all of you out there that have not yet sent out a Response Email to the PM I sent all of you back on March 20th. I'd like to get this started so those of us waiting, who are committed can see some results so, those that have not done so yet, I'm sure you know who you are, and if you don't I have taken the liberty of making it obvious on Post #10 of Page 1,, I'd appreciate any kind of response so we can move forward with the project at this time. If you are no longer interested, send me an email telling me to go F*** myself. I'm fine with that, just send it out. Thank you for your time. Oh, and additionally, I'd like to add that Precise1 eats one HELL of a lot of bacon. It's been 7 days since he started his perpetual bacon diet. I don't want to seem naggish, but since I've decided to take this on so that we may all benefit, I need people to work with me. Hope this is colourful enough for you Bastages. *edit* One final note, The design of 2 pods and a tweeter vs 3 pods no tweeter,is still something that can be changed depending on what the majority of the COMMITTED buyers want. What we originally sent was the trim piece with the tweeter so we could see if 3 pods could affectively be made WITH the tweeter. not necessarily written in stone that it has to be 2 pods and a tweeter. I'll send out a mass email to all Committed buyers asking your preference and we'll go from there.

On the 94-95 models I'm possitive the nut size is 41mm or 1-5/8". If you are looking to get something from a wrecking yard in Ontario, bring HEAT, a LARGE PIPE WRENCH, and a LONG ASS CHEATER BAR. I just got a second pitman arm from my local wrecker and I had to go back 3 times. I brought penetraiting fluid and a 1-5/8" socket with a 2 foot breaker bar the first time and I used a cheater on it. I broke the breaker bar. 2nd time I Hauled my own air compressor thru the damn yard to avoid the $50.00 air charge they impose, only to find that my HD impact good for 600 ft lb wasn't good enough even with heat, and the last trip I brought a huge pipe wrench and a 6 foot long Pipe that fit the handle, and some heat. Finally after wedging myself on another vehicle at the end of the bar I was able to break it loose but not before bending the handle on the pipe wrench. all that for a $10.00 Pitman arm. Spent way more in time then it would have cost me to just buy an aftermarket one. Rust is an awful thing.

Nothing wrong with a little bling. Theres no reason one can't hit the trails in style. I like chrome so works for me.

This is where proper grammar is a MUST. With the accidental mistype of one extra letter, like so... It could make you look a little different in the eyes of the internets! Can't wait to see how this turns out! I already have my hardbody parking brake waiting for pick up at an American freight yard.

You still fail to see his point. a) The actual IMPACT zone where the Tie rod meets the Centerlink is still going to take abuse before the stabilizer even receives the shock energy. Obviously the centerlink is not the problem that will fail in this scenario which is what he is referring to when he says you are just moving the problem to another area. b ) What he means by steering systems work best in straight lines is that when you take a factory spec Pathfinder the TRE's are as close to parallel with the Centerlink. This allows the force to be spread over the actual Joint and not the stem. When we lift our rigs and the angle changes from straight to, "45 degrees" as you state, the forces work on the stem more and ultimately bend the TRE's. It's not just because it has a maximum travel distance of 45 degrees that is the problem. From your explanation, you're saying that the side mounted TRE offers 90 degrees of movement, but in reality, once you travel past the 45 degree point, the leverage of it all is going to be on the bend in the inner TRE. Thats the point he's making. That is where the failure is most likely to occur. Its not a steering fix, its a steering damage relocation. And on your second comment about pitman arms and Idler arms being bent from factory so there are bends in the steering system already. Seriously..... a) the Pitman arm is the beefiest component in the steering system next to the box itself, and secondly, idler arms bend frequently, even on Stock units. It was just a poor design hands down.

Page 1 Post #10 updated. Check to see who has committed and who still needs to reply to their PM's. *cough* Mail Bag Boy *cough*

I'm pretty sure what he's getting at is that the shock loads are still present and hit the components with just as much force, the difference is that the stabilizer soaks up that shock AFTER it has already hit the components and lessens the effect at that point. The driver feels less because it has dampened it that is not the question. he's saying it masks the possible problems your steering may have because they will still wear out at the same rate because the shock hits those main steering components in question before the damper soaks the force. which he is correct about. he's talking about shock loading which is not to be confused with continual force. Think of it like taking a large stick and whacking it against a tree hard. The shock load of it will cause it to snap, vs applying pressure on both ends of the stick and trying to bend it until it breaks. He's right that the shock forces will still affect the steering components the same as they would without the stabilizer. The Dampener is not needed until that force is initially applied.

Might be best to PM him since he's not always keeping an eye on everything out there on all forums. He's a busy guy and unless he's alerted of a new message, he may over look this and it will come across to you that he's being a dick that doesn't want business. Try either his GrandpaX or AK9849cy logins.

Alright everyone, For those who are interested to see this become a reality, and wish to purchase the product, here's what has to happen next. I'll be sending each and every person that showed interest on the list a PM with a link to this Thread so you can catch up if you haven't done so yet, additionally, you will need to provide me with a yes or no response, your height in foot/inches, you full name, Your username here so I know who's who, a shipping address and a personal Email address so I can keep you informed easier to make this whole process easier to follow and to not have everyone feel like they don't know what's going on. Please send all replies to my E-MAIL address I will provide you so I don't get a crap load of messages to both my email and here. Once I verify that I have 20 potential buyers, we can proceed with dealing with transfer of payment so that the company will start the production of the prototype. The prototype will be sent to me for fitment, and to verify the gauges are pointed at the optimal height level for the majority of the buyers. (Yes, I'm not just going to set them up perfectly for me and send it back with the thumbs up.) Alright, expect a PM if you've been involved with this thread and please get back to me promptly. I'm sure everyone would like to see this started sooner rather than later. *edit* My email in no way can be used by anyone for spam and junk chain letters of any kind. Other than this project, or questions pertaining to it, consider it non existent. thank you and have a wonderful day. *edit #2* PLEASE MAKE ROOM IN YOUR MAIL BAG TO RECEIVE NEW MESSAGES! SOME OF YOU ARE FULL AND I CANNOT SEND YOU DETAILS.

Just for clarification, I believe what he meant was that they will design it for use with the factory tweeter, and cover, it will come pre cut, but the customer will have to provide the Factory Tweeter cover as they will not be supplying them. The price of the units are close to the price for other units with 2 pods they have for sale for more common vehicles. Paint is optional from what I understand with black being the choice as standard no color. It's too bad they don't think 3 pods would fit nicely, I was rather looking forward to 3 pods as well. I'm still interested myself although I agree the the price is getting up there.

Alrighty, So we have an Update. Return E-mail was sent to me so I in turn will post it up here for you guys and gals to see where we're at. Sooooo, now we need to get some opinions on this... I know some of you had your hearts set on 3 pods, so lets discuss from here to see who is still interested with those numbers and specs. I need some yes or no's so I can Update the list if need be.

Hey Scott. Haven't seen you around for a while, Although I never go to the PoHo so that could be it. Hope all is well. At any rate, I added you to the list and thanks for contributing. Well, we're not out of the woods yet. Still just starting. I'll be a lot more optimistic when I get a reply from my E-mail I sent 2 days ago. They told me they'd get back to me within about a week or so when I spoke to them on the phone. I'll add you to the list as well. This is great news. the more there are, the cheaper it will be for everyone. Updated Post #10 on First Page.

manual steering box mod with Pitman arm would be better suited for you.

Just an update. Alright. Bama has gotten the A-pillar and 3 color samples packed up and possibly already shipped. I spoke with him on Thursday last week and it was ready to go. I've emailed the company with Pictures of the interior with the A-pillar installed to get a better representation of how it is mounted in vehicle. We'll still need to collect more color samples to send off to the company, but at this point its not a priority. So far we've got the colors Dark Grey, Dark Blue and Rapist Red. We'll still need everything else remaining. I'll update on whats been sent and our progress on Post #10 on the First Page. You'll hear more as soon as I do.

Check the CV boots. Generally when you ride on the bump stops too much it puts those front CV's at too much an angle and 17 the year old rubber gives. If your going to get some UCA's try and find some that correct the ball joint angle when you lift the front a little. like the Rough country or Super lift style UCA's. Otherwise, you'll be doing Ball joints more then you'd like. New bushing all around is a good place to start. Loving it.

I forgot to add this before. I thought I did. Pics from another site.

Thats a stock option. Just not in North America. The come up on Ebay all the time.

The switch is to inform the cluster that the rear hatch is open.

Man. That's a beauty right there. Smart move on picking one up in Cali to avoid the Rust. Very nice. I've read some reviews on those tires as well and they had great things to say about them. Even in the 4x4 Petersons Rag they mentioned they are cheap, and work great in many environments. I'm Looking forward to seeing the progress on this since you've got some amazing work already behind you from working on the Hardbody's. About the temp gauge. There is some threads here on the subject somewhere, but basically it comes down to this. Universal temp sensors are obviously cheaper then OEM. I believe some of them have different operating temps. I can't recall the numbers but I do recall reading that some aftermarket ones were opening up on the cooler side then the factory ones. Someone may chime in with an actual link, but as usual, its somewhere in this Vast library of Pathfinder information. Finding it has always been the hardest part. A word to the wise, start making folders for bookmarks that are like the FSM. Anything that you find here that's super useful, book it and park it in the appropriate folder for reference later for when someone else asks the question, you'll be able to refer to it quickly. Beautiful ride man. You're gonna love it.

So far, that looks GREAT! Not just clean but CLEAN. Can't wait to see some more pics.

Take a look over at Ronin. Ryan Gee there, who is AK9849cy here, has done more Solid axle swaps then anyone else in the biz I think, even more then Barry,(NissanNut) or The King even. I think that is... He's done them in a SLEW of different Nissans. Hardbody's, Pathy's, Xterra's. He's been doing quality stuff. Read all you can on there pertaining to it. I think they even have a Diff Thread about how to find what you want in a axle at the wreckers. I'd link it, but don't have time to be scouring for ya man. So many forums, so many threads. This one was an older one so search, search and search some more. It's been discussed a lot there I can tell ya that. There's a specific year range that is best from what I know.

There would be no reason for them to open up the Diff to change the CV axle. take a look at the FA part of the manual. the first few pages shows the picture of the CV shafts on the Front Diff. You can see how they bolt up without the diff having to be opened up. As Precise said, better the spend the small amount to change the fluids to keep things proper.

Ya that's the issue we're talking about. a lot of products offer GL-4 and GL-5 oil. You don't want to put anything that rated GL-5 in any way into our tranny's. Its got detergents in it that destroy the bronze components in it. You need to find yourself a GL-4 Oil ONLY. pass on anything rated for both. I know.... a lot more annoying, but better for you to do it right. I know they are claiming its ok, but to me, I'm not interested in taking a chance on it.