Dowser

Jesus Rob. That's brutal. I can't get over how much damage occurred through out. I don't know how you're feeling these days, and I'm sure you probably can't talk too much about that if you're still in legal matters but I sure hope you have or will recover well. I'd have probably been up for murder charges if someone hit me that hard.

Well that's Great! Looking forward to that.

It fits..... Not well, but it fits. Changing Filters is going to piss you off now.

Ah, I wasn't aware it wasn't necessary if the importation isn't from the US. As you said, most likely terra2imports takes care of all the legal regulations pertaining to importation.

Don't forget to get your RIV done by Canadian tire as well. I had a Nissan Dealership install my DRL module so it would be a factory install, but to be honest I wish I would have done it myself since I would have done a MUCH cleaner job.

I'd love to see the console. CAD, and skeleton versions. Thats something I've wanted to attempt for years.

Always great videos man! Keep them coming!

I'd be questioning the Coils then. I'm using Nige's AC springs that he installed YEARS ago. These have got plenty of miles on them. I also mentioned I have the Energy Suspension Isolator seats and they provide about 1/2 to about 3/4" of lift as well. Regardless though, that's not going to make up that much of a difference. In that photo I took I didn't have the Carrier on yet, but the back of the Pathy was FULL of tools, a jack, parts, basically about 150-200lbs of weight. Probably the weight of a carrier and a tire. I'm not the only one who's had the rear end lift that high either. Might be something to look into.

I should have known better then to post a picture of something chrome on these offroad forums eh? Look, what I was saying is that I prefer the look of some chrome on a rig, even while beating the living piss out of it on a trail. "In my opinion", It adds a little CLASS to the whole thing. At any rate. Nunya. I've never had any experience with spacers what so ever and agree with spacers being a bad idea. I can understand the physics behind it as well but I always thought it applied more to the big 1" spacers and not so much the small 1/4 inch ones. I guess my thinking was that perhaps because the shims were so small it wouldn't be a problem. Could you elaborate on why you have such distaste the thinner ones that slide on? I'd just like to get more understanding.

Hey its not for everyone, but I like chrome. Well, the extra 6mm effects turning radius. 4" gives for less of it cause you start rubbing the frame. When I had my 3.75's before, I didn't have this issue as much. 6mm doesn't seem like much i know but it does make a difference. I may end up settling for something else, but right now I'm probably trying to convince myself that its a great idea hahaha

Hey everyone. I've been looking into purchasing a new set of wheels for awhile. I've been pretty stoked about a particular set, which is a 15x8 wheel that I plan to put 33x12.5's on. The only issue is that it only comes in an offset of -12. Now doing a bit of research on that, and finding a cross reference for backspacing it comes out to being 4" backspacing. Now... That's not really the optimal backspacing I was looking for. I wanted a 3.75 backspacing wheel. So here's what I'm wondering. What are your opinions on using a 0.25 wheel spacer to bring the 4" backspacing to a 3.75" I would probably need longer wheel studs I'm guessing but that's more of a minor nuisance then an issue. Think this is a bad idea? I sure do love the wheels. Helo HE791's

Anything ever come around for the fronts?

HAHA! Jesus Ryan.... How long was this project? Trogdor636 didn't even suggest to PM you until 9:20pm and then you have photos posted of the finished product 2 hours 5 minutes later. Freaking miracle man. Too funny!

You know, I VAGUELY remember someone fixing their rear defrost by soldering wires i think... it was like 4 or 5 years ago I think. I'll see if I can find it.

No rear Coils yet? Its not often you get your fronts higher then the rears with a lift. Id lower the fronts to match the rear as well.

Ya. I generally Clean things up and restore what I can if I'll be working on an area. I was putting in the Coils and shocks in a few weeks back so that's when that took place. And about his ebay account, I dont know if they are listed up there yet or not, I just know that will be his Ebay account name. You can just PM him personally and see how long till things are listed or if you're interested in a purchase right now, I'd just PM him and work out the details. He was Very prompt on shipping and made sure I got it with a follow up.

Lift the Panhard Bar up into its new mount location, again using the Pry Bar to wedge it up and into position, then slide the other bolt in. Tighten up the top 2 nuts that secure the bracket in place and provide enough tension that it will not come loose. The bolt with the beveled washers will require the 18mm Wrench on the backside while tightening. Locktite is probably a good idea but I didn’t have any handy. As for the other 2 nuts, I tightened them to torque spec according to the FSM. Passenger side - 100 ft/lbs using 22mm socket and 13/16 wrench on the back side. Drivers side - 110 ft/lbs using 19mm or 3/4" socket. And that’s it. Completed. Fast and easy. Perfect bolt on with no fuss. And here are the before and after photo’s. Keep in mind I’m using AC’s 3” springs and I haven’t got my Spare Tire Carrier installed. Before After All in all the Panhard Bar is at a MUCH better angle. As I mentioned, AK9849cy’s quality is great, installation was a breeze, the product is cheaper then Calmini’s version, and I highly recommend the product. You can find his products online at Ebay under his name “Grandpa X”.

So here is the write up I promised I would write for the installation of AK9849cy’s Panhard Dropdown Bracket. This unit is Completely and totally “Bolt On”. There’s no messing around with drilling or any other modifications to install. The whole installation took about 20-30 minutes. Alright, lets get into it. First things first, here is a list of the tools you will need to complete the Installation. Tools Required - Club Hammer - 18mm Wrench - 13/16” Wrench - 3/4“ or 19mm Socket - 22mm Socket - Ratchet - Pry Bar - Torque Wrench - Impact or Breaker Bar Here are a couple of pictures of the product with the hardware that is “Included” with the bracket. The bracket is burly, the welds clean and excellent quality. First thing to do is take the 3/4” or 19mm Socket and Impact/Breaker Bar and “Loosen” the Drivers Side Panhard Bar Mount. There’s no need to take this nut off. From here take your 22mm Socket and Impact/Breaker Bar and take off the nut connected to the Passenger Side Panhard Bar Mount, remove the bolt and lower the pan hard bar to the floor. Next take the AK9849cy Drop Down Bracket and slide it up into the factory mount. Line up the holes of the bracket with the original mount using the end of your Pry Bar and slide the factory bolt back into its same hole it came from, put the nut back on but don’t tighten. Then line up the upper bolt holes using your Pry Bar once again and install the 10.9 M12-1.75x80mm bolt that came with the bevelled washers. Position the beveled washers so that bolt will be flush with the washers when tightened. At this point I did not use the lock washer that was provided as I felt there wouldn’t be quite enough room for my liking.

Is that some sort of Nebraska dialect talk ? Good thing I speak enough of this language to understand what ya meant. At any rate, it really is easy to get at. It you can hold a ratchet in one hand you can do it.

End up costing you more headaches and money in the end. Better to hold out and wait a bit longer till you can afford the better set in my opinion.

What I'm saying is that if you have a set amount of cash, I "Personally" think it is safer and more advisable to do the steering before the Suspension lift. I know lots of people run lifts with stock steering and that's fine. But you never know what the future holds, and you can count on having cash later to upgrade the steering but lets say something else happens, life takes you in a different direction, and you no longer have a bit of cash to throw into it. At that Point... I think its safer to have done the steering first. That's all I'm saying. It could be you end up driving around with a sloppy steering system for who knows how long on a lifted rig waiting on cash, instead of having a bomb proof steering set up waiting on some cash for a lift. Just my

Alright, I'll try and cover most of the questions you have with what I know from my experience. If you would eventually like to drive on 33's first thing I would do is check what your gearing is now. If your rig has 4.3 gears I would most likely stay away from 33's since in my experience you lose a lot of low end power. I'm guessing this is what my issue was with my First pathfinder when I lifted it before I knew anything about anything mechanical. I never even bothered to check the gear ratios and it was gutless on 33's. This 3rd Pathfinder I have has 4.6 gears, and I've just recently driven a rig with 33's and 4.6 gears in it and theres is plenty of pick up and go and thats with an Auto. So as far as I'm concerned, 33's are fine with the 4.6 gearing. You could also grab an xterra 3rd member with 4.9's and the front diff Ring and Pinion with 4.9's and have those installed as well on the cheaper side down the road. It doesn't matter which you install first. The wont affect each other during installation. The situation I was referring to, is the weak centerlink, and Idler arm. As you may have read elsewhere, the idler arm bends if not properly braced, but seeing as you have the brace already that doesn't need to be talked about, the centerlink is the other problem area and its due to the design. If you aren't sure what it looks like, think of a Cartoon Dog bone. On the ends, it uses a ball joint system for both the idler arm connection and the TRE connection on the passender side, and again the ball joint style for the Pitman arm, and TRE on the driver side. What ends up happening is when the steering gets shocked, like hitting a rock offroad or perhaps even hitting a curb very hard in a non offroad situation, the centerlink creates a great deal of torsional strain on the centerlink because it is allowed to move due to the ball joint connections. This excessive twisting eventually messes with your centerlink and makes your steering out of whack and more unpredictable. The Grassroots modified Centerlink does away with one of the ball joint connections on each end, the Idler/pitman arm side and adds grade 8, 5/8 bolts in its place. There is much less torsional forces with this design and the weak points become either the Idler arm itself, or the TRE's. Ultimately you'd like the weakest link to be the TRE's since they are the easiest and cheapest to repair on the trail. Before doing any Lift modifications, I would think about what you'd like to be doing as the end result, and tackle the steering accordingly. From personal experience now, I can tell you it is MUCH safer and better to go that route. From my lesson I'm just lucky I never lost control on snowy roads and killed myself, or someone else. For shocks, No it is not necessary. For TRE's, Ball joints and UCA installation, absolutely. You will absolutely need shims and most likely quite a few of them behind the spindles when lifting the front end. The T-Bars are easy to crank up and there is a lot of info on these boards on that, so after you install the UCA's, I would crank them yourself to the height you wish to have them at. Remember to leave some room between your bump stops and UCA's or you will have no uptravel, It will feel BRUTALLY jarring while going over even pot holes, and you will be putting your CV's at a strained operating angle. Once you have these adjusted, Go to the alignment shop, and tell them 2 things, 1) Do not touch the Torsion bars to adjust the alignment, do it all through the UCA spindles, and 2) Use Washer style shims that WONT fall out as soon as you go up a curb. It is advised to get longer spindle bolts and there is a write up about that on here too. I can't recall the exact measurements but grade 10.9, 14?x60mm comes to mind? Don't take my word on that. Hope that helps. And if I'm forgetting anything or have anything wrong, someone correct me please. I don't like to give bad advise.

I thought at first maybe it was a diesel because I've seen those go for outrageous amounts but an Gas powered XE...... that's funny.

Ball joint wear wont really be affected so long as you get some UCA's that correct the balljoint angle. The Centerlink wont be any more of an issue if you don't put bigger meats on your wheels and if you avoid offroading it too hard you shouldn't have an issue there with the factory steering system. The TRE's will be the only thing that may see more wear due to the more pronounced angle but I doubt it will be enough to start causing failure unless you are being harsh on the trails. You wont have a problem getting the new bushings on the spindles. A little bit of grease on them and they pop right in and right out again if need be. The reason you cant get the old ones out is because they are most likely ceased in do to age and wear. Its easiest to disconnect the Upper balljoint, the shock, and th8e spindle nuts and take the whole UCA assembly with the spindle attached out, and burn them out that way. They stink so make sure you have an area well ventilated. Once the Spindle is out, make sure no one puts it in water to cool it down for you to touch. That could possibly change the metallurgic properties, so it is a good idea to just let it cool down on its own naturally. Now....... If it were me, I'd address the steering situation first before putting bigger tires and lift on. Its just the more safer route to go in my opinion. Once your steering is out of whack, its like wrestling a bull ALL the time.