Dowser

Or Buy a Frame rotten Pathy with the engine and tranny still intact. You can find them for relatively cheap and the engine could be just swapped in, or rebuilt while you have something to drive around and when cash permits. And you'd have a parts vehicle.

Thats the Idler Pully. They are a common issue for noise. you can pick up a new pully, or the bearing on its own.

Are you sure its those components that need replacement First? Have you checked for play or anything? Have you tried just getting an alignment first? Usually if its pulling to one side thats an alignment issue and not necessarily front end components. You'd be getting things like wandering and vibrations for worn out front end parts. You can check to see if these components are worn out fairly easily.

As the Title states, Rancho is offering another promotion for all their stuff. It was the same Promotion they ran when I bought mine. Here's the website. Rancho. When I bought my 9000xls I got a $100.00 rebate check in the mail. With that rebate it made the purchase of my Shocks $25.00 cheaper each shock. If I recall correctly when adding the rebate, I paid about $62-63 dollars a shock for the 9 way adjustables. Just thought I'd throw this out there incase someone was about to go shopping. 4wheelparts gave me the cheapest price hands down and will price beat other online competitors as well. And since this is a rebate that goes thru Rancho and not 4wheel parts, wait until 4wheelsparts has some promotion of their own like free shipping, or whatever. Hope someone gets some use out of this.

Dollar for Dollar you can do more with the WD21. 3 major things to look for, Rust on the frame. And don't forget to check the inside of it at the rear wheel wells. Poke your fingers in there and feel around. Find out if the timing belt has been done, unlikely if only 89k but sometimes the Odometers can stop on these rides. Check out if the manifold bolts are F***ed and lastly, check the transmission if auto through all gears and feel for the shift quality. If its got a trailer hitch on it be weary and pay extra attention to the tranny. Good luck.

I think it would be cheaper for you to source things out yourself. I got my Rough Country UCA's for $50.00 each side and the total shipped to the US address I provided was $126.00. Those type also correct for improper ball joint angles once lifted. You can buy the rear coils and brace from AC as I've heard good things about AC's 3" lift coils being a smoother ride then the cheaper JGC or Ford coils people get from the wreckers. And as for Ranchos, there's plenty of deals out there man. Rancho puts out a TON of different deals all the time. I got my Rancho 9000xls for $63.19 a shock due to a 100 dollar rebate they offered on the purchase of 4 shocks. I think you could do better on your own personally.

Well I'm happy to hear the general consensus is that its no biggie because I wasn't looking forward to taking it all apart again. Looks Like I'll just call it good then. Unless someone else chimes in screaming I'm going to kill myself in a vehicle wreak if I don't put one in.

Hey. So after I redid my CV boots, replaced wheel bearings and seals and installed my Manual Hubs on the passenger side there was a point that I felt like I was missing something during the installation. But when I went thru every component I had, there was nothing missing. So on I went. Then when I tore down the Drivers side, I noticed something that was not on the Passenger side. It was the Piece that I initially thought I should have had. It was a beveled Spacer that goes between the Wheel Side of the CV and the Back side of the Spindle on the Steering Knuckle where the Needle bearings are. It looks like this. Now my question is this. This piece was NOT present on the Passenger side. I'm sure of this. I'm thinking it should be though. CV lateral movement is adjusted Via different snap ring thicknesses I think so this spacer has nothing to do with that, right? Just though I would ask even though it seems like a no brainer. I wonder why there wasn't one on the passenger side. Hmmmmmmmm.

Here's another thread already started with some reviews on various winches from different members. If anyone else has experience winching with your unit, please leave some feedback in that thread using the format layout as a minimum, but feel free to add anything else that is relevant.

I was under the impression that when Swapping tranny's from Auto to Manual or Vice Versa, that you should be swapping the ECU's as well. I'm not sure of the specifics as to what has to be changed otherwise.

I know the second picture, you can remove the plastic piece fairly easily but its got 3 white plastic snapin style mounting things. Those Break super easy so be very careful.

That works for me too! Nice! I'll still check on the pricing from Canadian Dealers for those of us out there that require it. Thanks again!

Thanks Nige. I had checked with only Fastenal since there is one here, and got the same quote that Fleury posted. $13.00 each. I'm going to look into the others and Post up their Quotes. I'm going to contact a Nissan parts guy also and see what they charge here in Canada. No doubt there's some sort of ridiculous markup because they come from the states or some nonsense. We'll see. Thanks for the additions all.

Hey man. I used to live in Northern Alberta. Fairview to be exact. While I was up there, where the Garage rate is stupid high, I got quoted $900. from teh Dealer in Grande Prairie which was the only dealer around and still an hour and a half away. I knew VERY little about mechanics at the time. Seriously. Aside from doing an Oil change I never did anything to a vehicle and after I got that quote, and saw the price for parts, I decided it was time to learn. I did my own timing belt, water pump, cam and crank seals, thermostat, and tensioner pully on my own with the help of these forums. All of which at the time I couldn't even Identify if you asked me before. I ended up having to tear it down and put it back together 3 times for reasons not having to do with the actual timing belt. (my crank had a tiny burr on it and my first replacement crank seal tore the lip and oil was leaking by it, and the 3rd time taking it apart was because the Radiator Bypass hole had a hole in it and to get at it I couldn't find any other way to get at it other then tearing it down again. Other say its possible with extension needle nose pliers.) At any rate, First time took me longer then I'd like to talk about. Second time it took me about 8 hours to tear it all down, and take the seal out and put a new one in, the 3rd time, 4 and a half hours. I feel WAY more comfortable around working on my vehicle now and this is a Great job to learn on. BUT...... my timing belt was being replaced before it broke so you have a MUCH bigger headache to worry about. Chances are very slim that you didn't do further damage trying to get it started after the belt broke. Perhaps you can start trying to source some replacement heads from a Pathy in the Junkyard that is there for frame rot or tranny failure. Do this yourself man. I'll never look back again.

OEM. Look in the services provided section. Theres a member here named Alkorahil that is our local Parts person and he gets us a bit of a deal on parts. Start there first. I don't like trusting Aftermarket parts for engine components since most of the time the don't always fit just PERFECT. If you are doing the water pump, you may want to do the temp sensor, timing belt, cam seals, and crank seals since it will all have to come out anyway. That is if you have no idea when it was last serviced. Those aren't very expensive and the cost to have them done is all in labor. For a 95 I believe the timing belt needs to be changed every 100,000 miles.

truck looks good but you have to do something about that Garage!

When I read this...... I think of something Totally different.

I've had the Rancho 9000xls RS999214 on previous Pathfinders, and on the current one I have and it's a good size becaues it doesn't reach full extension before the UCA's bottom out on the bump stops anyway. It will allow you for a bit more uptravel then the other ones you posted since its compressed size is 3 inches longer. It would be bottoming out before max uptravel I would think. The Rancho's are great quality, and if you wait a bit, and work on other mods, Rancho has great sales on all the time. When I got my set of 4, they gave me a $100 dollar rebate. Sometimes they run other deals like throwing the remote ride quality control unit in for free,($250) and things like that. In the end I paid $63.19 USD per shock thanks to that rebate and that was when the dollar was around 85 cents. Now granted I buy in the states and they ship for free to any state. I ship it to an american Address just over the bridge and go to pick stuff up myself so I save on shipping and duty but you can see what I mean. If you hold out you can get yourself some sweet deals. Also for comparison The rears I purchased both times have been RS999112. I don't have the specs handy though.

The ride might feel stiffer for a couple of reasons. The rear Coils have a different spring rate then the factory coils and I believe they are quite a bit stiffer. This of course is going to give you a bit more of the harshness that is associated with that. As for the Front end, The Calmini T bars also have a higher spring rate so that in itself will lead to that, but also if the mechanic who was working on it, jacked the front end too much, you will have very little to no downward travel and the UCA's will be hitting the bumpstops all the time creating more harshness. You should have about about 1/2" + space between the bumpstops and the UCA's. If that poses a problem, you could order low profile bump stops but then your CV's are operating at angles that they don't particularly like very much and you could be tearing boots and busting CV's. If you go this route, Pick up the Front Differential Drop down bushing set from Automotive customizers. They offer a 3/8" drop on the front diff. Its not much by any means but it helps with the CV angle some. As for the shocks, you dont have to go too fancy with the remote reservoir system, Because you'll be throwing your money away. The harshness in my opinion is 100% in the new spring rates. They will settle over time a little but they are stiffer none the less. To fix that you can buy yourself an ARB bumper for a Hardbody and modify it to fit a 3" Body lift, Then pick up a Winch and some lights. All the extra weight will help to alleviate some of that spring rate. As for the Rear, has it got a Carrier? If it doesn't get one. And throw a full size spare on it, add some jerry cans, and buy or it make a Beefy Rear bumper. You'll lose a little of the lift in the rear but it will be a bit more comfortable. KMA or their new name, tactical armor or something like that, makes a rear bumper for our pigs. Your next upgrade is going to Seriously need to be a steering system. That centerlink isn't going to like you at all and you're going to HATE him as well. Road manners will be disappearing soon. grassroots4x4.com or 4x4grassroots.com sells a beefed up version of our centerlinks. It's pricey shipping into Canada though, be advised. Good luck.

Ohhhh I wont forget. Now I can't wait for you to start your SAS project hahaha

Well that makes sense to me. I think what threw me off that original reasoning was the 2 posts that I mentioned and no one commented on it afterward. Perhaps I'm suffering from a case of "Keep it simple stupid" syndrome. And for the record, It wasn't that I was doubting your ability to measure the bolts properly because I'm certain that you would be unemployed if you preformed that incorrectly. I was doubting your ability to type in the correct size on the computer after you made such "Precise" measurements. <--- See what I did there? That was just for you. Alright then. So I can chalk this up to being another thread stating that the rear most bolt is a M12x1.25x180mm. Pfffft. Like who doesn't know that by now? Well that is a very good suggestion. And definitely where I should have started before questioning the bolt size. But I lacked the basic common sense to think of that at the time. I would go out here right now and check if I didn't already know the Bolt Size was M12x1.25x180mm. That is Bloody Brilliant. If this has been mentioned before then I've never seen it. That's a pretty sweet find and exactly the sort of thing I'd like to see for this thread. Nice work.

Precise. Ya I've read that thread thoroughly and I was aware that they were hard to find and fairly expensive, but when I think "expensive" in Bolt terms I think $8-10 dollars for a single bolt, not $18 bucks. I was also kind of under the impression that there was a typo on your part, because even though you mention M12x1.25x180 for the rears, a little farther down, (page 2 Post #29 and #31) OSR mentions that his rear bolts are the same width as all the others and that he couldn't get the Black ones that are M12 to screw in. Which got me thinking again that perhaps it was just for models 93-95 that had M12 size rear most bolts. But I was having difficulties believing that they just changed the rear most bolts for 93-95 even after running M10 in the rears of the 4 doors from 90-92. I figured perhaps there was some sort of typo based on the information I could find. I hate to bring this topic up obviously because I know its been talked about extensively and I know that not only because I've been around a long time, but also because I know how to use the function a lot and have read PLENTY on the topic. That Body lift thread you posted is one of only a couple that I could find that gave the bolt dimensions, with others answering the size based on IIRC knowledge and refering to that Body lift thread for bolt dimensions. But from that thread it sounded like others were having differing issues with the bolt widths. So perhaps you can see what where I'm coming from. So just to put this issue to rest and so I can have the correct title name, The rear most bolt size is supposed to be M12x1.25x180mm from 90-95 or 93-95, and everything else should be M10 in width? And finally, I was unable to track down a thread concerning suppliers for those rear most bolts. My apologies if it was covered and I was unable to locate it. Feel free to post the link up if you locate it. Adamzan, It would be nice to see the cost variance for sure. If for nothing else then to see if I was getting screwed. If its a much nicer price and I can't locate something better perhaps we order a set and you can send it with the idler arm when that goes out. I'd still like to see what other out there can come up with and at least make this a thorough enough thread to not only give a final answer to the topic, but to give resources to those wishing to use the search to find a source of purchase.

So a couple of weekends ago, I went to a local hardware supplier that handles a large selection of various hardware. They carry everything for the farming, and trucking industry so I thought I may get lucky. No such luck, BUT, they said they could get me these bolts and have them for me in no time. So I asked if they could order me up 4. While I was at it I also got her to get me some UCA spindle bolts that were 10.9 grade and 60mm long and order 4 of those. So it was just the 8 bolts I was looking to get. A few days later I get a call telling me they are in. I head down to the store, she hands me the hardware, I'm very pleased so I toss my mastercard on the table while I inspect them further. I didn't even ask how much they were because its 8 bolts. Just 8 pieces of hardware. Nothing that would indicate that I was about to be raped. She swipes the card and hands me the receipt to be signed. I grab a pen and just as it hits the paper I see the price. $105.87 I'm stunned. I think that there has to be some sort of mistake. Nope. They cost just over 18 dollars each. The UCA spindle bolts were just over 5 dollars each. I immediately back pedal and say there's NO WAY I'm paying that. She returns the cash to the credit card and I leave the store shaking my head thinking did I just *my &quot;vocabulary&quot; is so small* myself buying the early model Body Lift for $114 thinking I could source those myself for cheaper then the difference that AC sells their 93-95 kit? So here I am. Asking what you guys think. Can any of you find these bolts for fairly cheap? If we can, we should post it up here for others to utilize.

I'm on my 3rd. Sometimes you have to look at what you have, how much you need to put into it, and weigh that against finding a better one for that cost. I looked thru craigslist, auto trader, ebay, kijiji and all of the nissan forums I'm a member of for 6 months before I found what I wanted to buy.