Dowser

Excellent Write Up. *bookmarked*

WOW... congrats on actually getting it back and with very little wrong with it. TO be honest some people have more damage to their vehicle sitting in their drive way so you got lucky..... in a not so lucky way.... Good luck. OH and get yourself a UV light and take a peek at your carpets hahaha. Or maybe.... maybe you shouldnt for piece of mind.

Just wanted to add to this thread about some other options as well. I tried finding the same bearing that you posted edicer2 but I'm not sure if it has anything to do with American Numbers vs Canadian Numbers, but that specific size crosses over to one with a lot of room around the bushing. I then got a few shops to see what they could find to match up but nothing fit perfect. it was all either a bit of play or wont seat in the cup well enough. So at this moment, I'm still hunting for a correct size. I was thinking just matching up some thicker wall tube so the inside diameter would be close to the outside diameter of the bushing while under torqued spec, which is 116 foot pounds, and cut a few slim sleeves to weld in. And lastly, If you would like to keep things Factory and not Monkey around with jimmy rigging anything, Nissan sells the WHOLE mounting bracket that is welded to the frame. here are the part numbers and List Prices courtesy of Alkorahil. Those prices may be subject to change.

If after you do all that. The ABS light stays lit, check the rear differential by the Pinion. There's and ABS sensor there that sometimes takes abuse from one way or another. Verify it's not not mangled and no wires are damaged for starters. I think they are pretty prone to get beat up if the vehicle either drives down gravel roads or goes offroad at times.

Smell the tranny fluid as well from the dipstick. It shouldn't smell nasty. My guess is you're about to lose the tranny.

As of this moment only 6 people have viewed this topic and since you double posted you are considered one of them, myself being another, I would suggest you give it a bit more time then 12 hours.

And the answer to the Door lock problem is here. "Problem Solver" Good luck and keep us posted on what the results are if you sort out the power loss issue.

Its the same door. They didn't make different doors for Manual or Auto features. They designed one door for all trim levels to keep manufacturing costs down. Everything will swap over. Can be a little bit of a pain in the ass though getting all the Auto mechanisms in there, but shouldn't be too bad. Just don't lose your temper and start getting Rammy or you'll break the window. If you run into a snag, walk away before you go balistic and come back after a beer and a better state of mind. Not speaking from experience or anything.

Swap Pumps. there's 2 separate ones. 1 for front and one for rear. See which one was leaking on the old assembly, (if it was from a pump) and use those. Both my pumps have been non functioning and I've been on the prowl for some for a while. All the wreckers i find aren't working. Nissan wants $31 USD a pump. $50ish in CAN.

Here's what Slick had to say about shocks that I found a while ago and had bookmarked. Also, all you really need to know about shocks really. If none of these suit your fancy, then go with a different vehicle option that uses the same mounting hole style and size. 17th post down is Slicks, but whole thread is great reference.

I agree. Ripping into the exhaust is opening up a whole new animal to have to deal with later. Should make sure its not a timing issue first so that way you can scratch it off a list.

Power Steering Fluid Pressure Switch? Can't say that I have. Valve..... of course, but switch.... I'm curious to it's purpose as well.

I find it interesting that it happens when you go from reverse to forward.... Maybe check you Lower and upper links to the axle. see if the bushings are worn out giving the whole axle a bit of play.

I think he usually ships within 24 hours. When I bought mine, I sent him an email the next day just asking how long of a wait it would be so I could handle some scheduling issues to which he replied, "Already sent." It arrived at its destination a couple days later. I didn't personally pick it up from where i sent it for about 4 months, but when I finally got it, the welds were good, everything was made well.

First question to eliminate some things. When you're cranking it over, is it the engine that's having a hard time getting fired up, or is it the starter sounding like its having a hard time getting the engine to turn over? If its the engine having trouble starting over, then disregard the rest of this. My thoughts are on the electrical supply side of things. How are the Battery and Alternator? Could be your battery is no longer holding a decent Charge. That could be due to maybe your alternator not working properly, or just the battery getting old and tired. I know that batteries will charge a very small amount on their own when left to sit if they still have some life left in them but usually discharges quickly. When my battery was on its way out it could crank the vehicle over a few times, but it was like it wasn't cranking it at full potential. Then after it warmed up, shortly after it would just shut down completely. This doesn't sound entirely like what you're experiencing but its something to rule out.

Agreed. Search is going to be the best thing you can learn how to use on this forums cause if you can think of a question, 9 times out of 10 ts already been answered at some point already. But as a starting point, this is what I suggest. before doing ANY MODIFICATIONS for offroad, take care of the vehicle's small issues that can effect its lifespan. First and foremost, if it has a Auto tranny, it is crucial to get a aftermarket tranny cooler installed and BYPASS the stock one. The stock coolers are notorious for clogging and then goodbye tranny. Next is Timing belt service. They should be done every 60000 miles/100000 kms and if you're not sure when it was done last, do it now. If the belt snaps, skips teeth, etc, you'll be looking for a new engine, and trust us that it has happened MANY times to people on here in the past that had it on their to do list but never got around to it. The list of things that can and should be done before tampering with suspensions and steering is all over the forums, but a good place to start is in the Common Problems of the new members area. Don't be in a rush to get it all jacked up and on the trail either or you may end up regretting not taking your time and doing a lot of reading. There's a lot of info on these boards and people have done a lot of different things so if you take your time, you'll learn what works best and what doesn't that way you can make informed decisions and not feel like you made a mistake. Welcome to the forums.

Well it's working. I have an idea already! Ready for it? Make One for ME!!! Now Bernard.... I even used all sorts of pretty colors so there's NO way you can say no now.

I'll bet you if you go there and pop your fingers in the holes by the rear tire and feel around it will feel like sponge cake. Tell them to knock the price down 100-200 cause they can't claim rust free if its rusting from the inside out. Then with whatever you can part out, you'd still only be in hole anywhere from 300-500ish. You can easily make 300 bucks on parting out a pathy.

I stick to my initial thoughts. Find a wrecked Pathy at a yard or on Craigslist with a Pooched tranny thats frame is in better shape then your own.... Which shouldn't be too hard really. You can find all kinds for like 500 obo all the time. Right there you have shocks, frame, another engine, exhaust and countless other pieces you can sell off to others to make some of that 500 back.

Yes.

Sure would be nice if someone on here knew someone with one of these to make a reverse copy of one from a RHD. 3D Copier

I've also been wondering about Radiators lately. From what I understand, The Stock Tranny Cooler is built into the Radiator unit for our vehicles and I've been wondering if there are different Rads for Manual and Auto's. If they are different then perhaps the Manual versions are a slimmer design sparing a little more room to mount. This is all speculation of course. Can anyone Confirm?

For the amount of rust that those rails have I wouldn't bother even trying to salvage as stated above. You need some big ass steel box tubing and start from the rear doors back otherwise you're going to have once hell of a time welding. Not to mention having to line everything else up perfect to the new frame rails. If I were you man... I don't personally think I would bother. There's people all over the place selling Pathfinders with Blown Tranny's and tons in the wrecking yards with no engines because of the Cash for Clunkers. I'd sooner buy a wrecker and steal what you need from the current one you have to get it rocking. Then you'll also have a vehicle to part out to make some of your cash back. That rust is probably the worst I've seen and I DEFINITELY wouldn't drive it like that.

Strictly out of curiosity, you guys are mentioning that the hole in the Plate had gotten Oblong. How big is the hole supposed to be from the factory? Just asking cause mine isn't oblong, but its larger in Diameter then the Rod with the Sleeve on it that's for sure. Anyone have any insight? I'm guessing it should be a Little bit larger so that its not rubbing directly on the sleeve hence making the bushings do their part but just exactly how big is it supposed to be.

No idea. You can email 88pathoffroad and ask him directly.