Dowser

Yes.

Dude... I'm a really patient guy, but like many others on here, Don't have all day to be answering questions that are very easy to find. One of your questions was answered in the first sentence of the link provided to you that you even quoted in your last question. The TSB, which is a PINNED topic tells you everything you need to know about the tranny oil, the problems with using GL-5 ATF fluid instead of GL-4 so it wasn't really even necessary to ask your other thread question GL-4. Honestly... It took me 10 seconds to type in the search function "Fluid Capacity" to which i got 9 results. 4th thread was this. Fluid Capacity Look we all like to help out when we can man... but we're not here to do all the leg work for ya. Would have been faster for you to look yourself then wait for us to respond. Not trying to be a dick, but come on man.... If you're willing to get your hands dirty to change all the fluids, you can get your hands dirty here searching for the answers a little harder.

You know, for the price right now, You'd be crazy not to take Rancho up on their New RS9000xl series. I just ordered some from 4wheelparts.com cause they were by far the cheapest i could find out there. They are advertising the shock themselves for $88.19 a shock for the RS999214(front with lift) and RS999112(Rear with Lift)But thats not all. Up until August you can get $100.00 buck rebate from Rancho back on the purchase of 4 9000xl shocks so that brings the cost of each shock down to a WHOPPING $63.19. That's pretty freaking nice for a 9 way adjustable shock. When you compare that to other manufacturers for what you're getting, its a no brainer. Go for the Rancho. I went ahead and picked up a RS5402 Steering Stabilizer for $45.89 and the RS5533 Mounting Brackets for 24.99 at the same time. With everything my total came up to $456.26 before the $100.00 rebate so really only $356.26 and the Shipping was free. Good luck with your decision.

They Don't need replacement. Many on here dont even have the original Rear Axle bump stops anymore and you wont have trouble with anything hitting from what I understand. My first 2 pathfinders didn't even have them.

I have a Garmin E-Trex Vista HCX. Its a hand held unit, Color, stores an Unbelievable amount of waypoints and can do just about anything you could ever ask of it. It has a memory stick slot in the back for cards for any number of areas and different things. Example. You can get a memory stick of North American Roads, One for north American Hiking and topographical maps, and one for Marine use so it gives you all sorts of info specifically detailed for what you're doing. It doesn't have a speech function telling you you're a moron for missing your turn or whatever, which for me is a bonus since that means I don't have to hear it from anyone else other then my wife. Also has a port for a cable that can plug into a computer if you have the extra cash and software. In all, its been a FINE unit. I did drool over the Colorado functions like 3d topographic function but hey, they'll have something newer coming out with different functions by the time I'm done typing this so whatever.

Possible E-Brake issue as well.

I know the R50's and the WD21's are different set ups and to be honest I don't have the slightest clue what the sway bars look like on the R50's, but perhaps you can use some of what this person did to get some inspiration or idea's. Good Luck

Strictly from a safety standpoint, You can obviously drive it without problems as long as you're in control, but I'm pretty sure the point of them is for when unexpected situations arise like avoiding a deer on the highway in the middle of the night on a lonely road where a quick jerk of the wheel at a high speed can be a little more dangerous. Also if you do manage to stay upright from the initial high speed steering wheel jerk, then you have to consider the one that follows to correct it after building up all that energy up from the first, the second correction is usually much worse due to the speed, and kinetic energy built up from the first. Most of the time its on the second correction that people go over. All things told. Accidents happen when you don't expect them... That's why they are called Accidents. if it were me, I would most likely just either fab up or purchase a set of quick disconnects because honestly... you have to consider where you do most of your driving. Are you on the Roads more then the Mud? If so then to me safety is not something I wish to let slide.

Also, some of the cost of the New Rotor Job will not only be in the price of the rotors but in new brake pads as well because when you purchase new rotors any dealership will tell you you should be replacing your pads as well. otherwise you run the risk of making groves in the new rotors that are the same as the old pads. The concept also being being less surface area for friction and also prematurely wearing out your NEW rotors. So the quote is most likely for new rotors, pads, cleaning out and repacking your bearings, bleeding your brakes and whatever flat rate time all those things add up to. Not sure what the shop rate is per hour but I'm guessing that can all be done in under an hour so long as nothing goes wrong and parts are right there waiting. And the actual time is not to be confused with the flat rate time as the flat rate time on easy jobs is usually longer then actual time. Everything in a dealership is done in 6 minute increments. 0.1 = 6 minutes. so a half hour job you get charged for 0.5. So the dealership will have a set time for each job. example, replace rotors = 0.5, replace brakes = 0.5, tire rotation = 0.4, timing belt = 6.3, etc. add them all together and you get your shop charge whether or not it took the mechanic that long or not.

Take a look at CrazzyMaxx's ride in the members rides area. He has a nice Custom snorkel as well.

Tragic news. Absolutely awful. My sympathy for his family and close friends. It is always so difficult to lose someone so young and full of life. He will be missed around here without a doubt.

Have a Picture of that by chance? be nice to use for reference.

Sounds about right if its from Calmini. Seems they have a little trouble making things line up. I think I read from Precise that the idler arm brace he bought didnt line up properly either. Makes me angry that a company that produces something for a specific vehicle doesnt get things worked out before selling them to the public. I know I hated my UCA's when i bought them although people told me that they switched bushings in their later models. Mind you you still have to grind out the shock hole to accommodate different shock brands to fit without hitting. At any rate. Good luck with the install.

I've heard others here say to stick to NGK plugs as well claiming the Bosch's gave them a little trouble until they switched back. Might be something to look into.

Just watched the video's and I'll tell you that's exactly the same laugh I had when I finished mine the very first time too. Great job and great video's. You're gonna have to leave those up forever now because those are a great reference material. officially..... *Bookmarked*

I Pmed Alkorahil to see if he could dig anything up.

Also, just incase you guys didn't know, All vehicles come with a different filter when sold from the manufacturing plant before they are sold to customers. That filter is the BEST filter the company makes has for that specific vehicle and is much better then what is normally the option for your vehicle when you check with Nissan for your standard oil filter. It has a much finer mesh filter inside it to catch all the flashing and crap that is associated with new engines. They are most pricey, and even then a lot of Parts guys aren't even aware there is an option for them. But you can Custom order them. You'll end up having to buy the pack of 6 or 12... whatever they order, but if you're doing your own oil changes anyway, that shouldn't be a real problem. It provides a much better filtering process although its really hard to tell just how effective it would be considering many of our engines are in the Higher mileage limits now. Although for those of us planning on a Engine rebuild keep this in mind. Something to consider if you want to stick with a Nissan Filter.

PM sent.

Strictly out of curiosity, Automatic or Manual.

My pathy still sits in the Garage from an Explosion of a retread on the Highway going a 120km/h and nearly taking my life. Yes they are much cheaper to buy and the lugs on some brands are great just like the big tire brands, but unless they are going to be OFFROAD use only to be swapped in at the trail head, I wouldn't trust them on a highway. My tread completely delaminated from the carcass. It also cause considerable damage to the Pathy. Smashed in the Rocker, the Fender and the Passenger door, Ball joints are shot now, the wheel is damaged and needs replacement, and a few other things i cant recall since I haven't even bothered to look at it due to lack of funds for the past 8 months. Like all things, if you're looking for the cheapest alternative when buying a product, you get what you pay for and it usually ends up costing you more in the end. That said, you dont need to go buy the most expensive tire out there, but I would recommend at least a reputable brand.

I suggest NOT buying a universal no name brand washer pump for cheaper cause they dont fit correctly and will need to be jimmy rigged. I still haven't got washer pumps yet either cause Nissan Wants too much for a pump. $31.00 USD without shipping per pump is the best price i could find new. I took 2 from the wreckers here from the only Pathfinder they had and only 1 worked and its beat pretty bad with rust and corrosion. I'm STILL looking for a pair.

I did some searching on here for a while but wasn't able to find the thread. Since I've been coming here, I've only heard of one pathfinder with them though so my thoughts are they were most probably some home job, or some how someone took a Hardbody frame and put a pathy on it. I know there was a post from ages ago about someone making a sort of stretched pathy and it had a leaf set up but it turned out to have started out as a hardbody. At any rate, I've been unable to successfully find the link even though I remember reading it from like 4-6 years ago cause i thought it was odd then. Maybe someone with more time on there hands can go sifting thru some old threads with more success.

There has been a pathfinder with leafs on the back before though. I cant recall for certain if it was stock or if someone swapped it in, but I think I recall them saying it was stock. I've seen pictures of one on this forums at some point years ago. A Grey one i believe.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MPE-53004/ And that was the very first attempt to find anything. Theres probably even cheaper ones out there I'm sure, if i was so inclined to look. But seeing how your 15, and from Alberta, I know being green is probably the farthest thing from your mind so you'll probably never even bother to look.

I think you're Crazy to go thru the trouble of Doing it all again later if you're already going to have to take it all apart to change the Rod. You do realize the Bushings are super cheap right? The Price as of Right now on Rock Auto ranges from $4.60 - $23.79 for the bushings Moog being the Most expensive. For that kind of money I think you're absolutely Nuts to not do it all at the same time.