Dowser

To add to this, there's a couple other factors involved. Depending on how badly the leak is, How long it has been leaking, and how hot it gets,(driver driving the piss out of it) there could be some Warpage on the stock manifold. In that case, even if you seal it up nice and tight, it wont be sealed perfect and may eventually have another leak. May want to have them take a look at it with a straight edge to see if anythings out of line before going thru the whole process and finding out the hard way that something was. If there is warpage, then you can have it shaved, pick up a new one, or just do as many others on here die for an excuse for and buy Headers. Good luck with the process and that Labor Price is a steal. Shops locally here charge $77.00 CAN an hour, and where I used to live in Northern Alberta it was $107.00CAN an hour. Hence the reason I decided to tackle my own Timing belt job. *edit* and one more thing, When any book or Manual refers to Left or Right side, they are referencing as if you were sitting in the drivers seat. (Left being drivers side and Right passengers side, as Simon mentioned.)

Dug this up since I knew I had this issue myself on 2 of the 3 pathfinders I owned. I've never done the job personally but this write up was as good as it could get. Good luck. Let us Know how it turns out and add some photo's of your own experience to help us all. Never know when an Old thread will be used to help someone out in the future. Lifter Swap

When I ask Nissan the expected Life span of a Water pump they said it should be replaced after about 120000 kms or so...... If I remember right. Not saying it going to fail at 120001 but if your ripping the T-Belt out anyway and your already past the Mileage then I would say fork over the dough. Otherwise you COULD end up like a few others on here with a working timing belt but a failed water pump and your vehicle is still sitting in the driveway waiting for MORE cash then you would have spent to do them together to do it on its own.

I just took all 4 pumps I have here. 2 front 2 rear. and tested them all individually with direct power to the Battery. Only 1 works haha Brutal. Even still when I plug that one into the System Its not working. Perhaps I have more then One problem here. Going to do some more testing. Thanks for the ideas so far. Will use them all. Also, I took the only Washer Pumps from this wrecking yard. only has 1 pathfinder in it. I'll have to go to the Parts for sale section and see what everyone has cause to buy these things new is retarded. Nissan here wants $50.00 canadian each.

Well I don't think it has anything to do with the Wiring since I have power right up to the Connector that connects to the Pumps. And I am still fairly certain that its not the Pumps since I did check them with an Ohm meter. I'll just run them straight from the battery a second to see if I can hear the Pump kick in. As of right now when everything is all connected there is NO sound coming from the Pumps which means they are not getting any power. That's why Im 90% sure its the Lever but I am not sure how I can Test the lever Properly to find out for sure without getting another one. Anyone have any electrical testing suggestions for the lever?

Hey. I just tested with the Test light taht I have power to the Fuse box. I do. The Fuse is good. 20amp. I checked on the other end by disconnecting the Plugs going into the Washer Bottle and testing for power there. Good on Both Pumps front and rear. I tested the Pumps themselves with an Ohms meter and they are fine. And I also have 2 sets of Pumps and tried them all in different combinations incase it was something else. With everything plugged in, when I hit the Washer lever for front or Rear, the Wipers start up but the Motor for the pumps can not be heard and obviously no fluid coming out. My last thought is it may perhaps be the Activation Lever? Anyone know how I can test this to verify? Or if you have other ideas send them my way.

There's a lot of different ways to align a vehicle. A lot of vehicles you cant adjust the Caster at all just the Camber and Toe. And the reason that they have different shims on either side of your Pathfinder could very well be just to compensate for Road Crown. Road crown is the term used for the slight slope all roads have to effectively shed water off the road to the side. if your vehicle was in absolute PERFECT alignment without compensating for road crown your vehicle would always pull to the right.

The springs should be ok I would imagine but I would check them out regardless since they are easy to look at. I've had a set that actually cracked in half at the base on the little rubber seat. If thats the case then ya I would replace them. other then that they should be alright. Besides if you plan on lifting it later your going to be doing the springs anyway.

Yes... Caster Angle is Correct and it is ok to have different amounts of shims in the 2 bolts.

That's DEFINITELY where I would start first.

If this works out alright for you, is there a chance the w21 models could get the option as well? Many on here including myself would love to have a higher output then the 120 Quest alty's.

How do you think I found this DEAD Thread? I've looked at many installations already that include nige's, Pickles, Filthy's, Redpath88's, barthol's and a few more that I used the search function for. If jj had a write up with photos on the subject then I've not been successful in finding it. Thanks for the vote of confidence about using the search function, but lets try and save them for the noobs.

Hey JJ. have you got a Picture of how you mounted that to your Transmission Crossmember? I'd like to see that. I'm contemplating where to mount mine and although I could fit it in the engine bay as many others have, I'm thinking of the Oil mess My clumsy hands would no doubt make in that location so looking at other places. If anyone else has one installed anyplace other then the engine bay and you read this, mind throwing a picture up too? And Also so as not to this Old post, Thanks for the reminder B. I'll make sure to just put the Solid Brass fittings on my initial Installation.

Well I know for sure at -53 degrees Celsius that your Power steering pump, and Transmission SCREAM bloody murder. Definitely not good for the pump when that happens. Glad I'm out of that place to never return.

Welcome to the Forums The hardest part of fixing your Pathfinder is OVER... That is, now that you've found us. You can be sure that if there's anything at all, that could ever go wrong with yours, you will find great documentation on it, and in many cases write ups on how to repair the issues on here. This forums is stocked FULL of information of every variety and although it may take some digging with the search function, you can be sure it's out there. You'll just need to learn how to effectively use that search function to get what you looking for. If that doesn't seem to be working for you, then feel free to ask around and as you can see, many of us will chime in with links or useful information. Congratulations on your Purchase, and welcome to our family. Even a broken down Pathfinder is a good purchase in our books. Pretty much everything has been covered but I'll add a few things. 1. When I bought my Pathfinder I was pretty mechanically retarded. After a while of reading on here and trying a lot of things myself, I'm very confident now that I can do virtually everything myself. What I would suggest when doing the timing belt on ours, (Since it will be a time consuming process) is spend the extra cash on getting some other things out of the way while its all ripped apart and save yourself future headaches. As you'll read about, you'll be taking off a lot of stuff so it gives you this chance without a lot of extra effort. If service history is completely unknown then I would do the following myself if I were in your shoes. -Cam Seals -(cheap) -Crank Seal-(cheap) -Waterpump-(more pricey) -thermostat-(cheap) -the little tiny rad hose elbow just off to the left of the distributor. its a little ways in and can only be replaced while torn down.-(cheap) -Radiator Flush.-(cheap) I used to live by the Breakdown Maintenance rule. Drive it till it breaks down then fix it, but I've since learned that way is FAR more costly then Preventative Maintenance. 3. I believe towing capacity is rated at 5000 lbs if I can remember correctly, but as mentioned I would get yourself a after market Transmission cooler. And that goes even if your not towing since the main problem with Automatic tranny's failing is the fact that they overheat due to the OEM cooler clogging up. It's suggested to bypass the OEM one all together. This is a Must if you have an Auto and you want to get a long life out of it. 5. Ya the oil filter really is in a completely retarded location no doubt about that. For the price of a few oil changes you can pick up a Oil relocation filter kit from Summit Racing and that issue disappears. A search on this will bring up several members on here who have done it and you can see the craftiness of where each placed the filters. 7. The infamous Broken exhaust manifolds studs can be a complete and total nightmare to repair. Quite a bit of time, headache and swearing is usually the case. If your going to tackle this one yourself I suggest a time when you wont be needing your vehicle for an extended period of time and to make sure you use the Newer updated replacement studs which are much stronger. For this particular issue, I would do some searching around in some local shops and get some quotes to replace them all. There is a real danger of slipping off a broken stud and Drilling thru the heads into the waterjacket since there's not a lot of material there. There are MANY MANY horror stories out there on here. so read up on that and make your decision from there. Finally, before you do ANY of this I would do one thing first. Check how bad your Frame Rot around the rear wheels is. If you have a jack stand and can take off the tires, do so and give it a good look. There are a few holes in the frame back there and I suggest poking some fingers in there to feel for Frame Rot Swelling because sometimes its not visual from the outside. There were a few years Nissan Used a Different Type of recycled Metal to make the frames that doesn't do very well in North American Climates. If there's no rust, I'd still undercoat the pig to make sure it stands the test of time. All the Engine maintenance in the world wont save your vehicle if the frame rots out. Best of luck and once again. Welcome to the Community.

I just love finding these old threads while doing research. Since you haven't been active since 2007 Boxer I feel rather confident that I can make sarcastic remarks without retaliation. (If marriage taught me anything it's pick the battles you can win. ) Basically it took 3 pages and a handfull of Guru's to convince this guy that a HooHaa's Centerlink is worth buying rather then doing a SAS. The part I particularily like is how much he thinks its a rip off for the part, (regardless of everyone telling him that it's a decent price) only to find out that he wouldn't be saving a hell of a lot of cash doing it himself once you consider how much the individual parts, and time factor. At any rate, Just bumping this one because it was a very good informative thread that a lot of newer members could get a lot of information from and worth bump... if for no other reason then to Drool over AK's Beautiful Flex shot that satisfied my urge to continue my searching for more SAS information. Thanks Ryan for such inspirational photo's......... Now do MINE Dammit!!!

Reviving this one from the dead. Anyone ever actually make some progress into finding out what else this noise could be and a proven method to fixing it?

x2 on this. When I did my timing belt and water pump, thermostat, cam seals and Crankshaft seals, I didn't replace that hose. Ended up having to tear it all back down again just to get at it. save yourself the hassle and take care of that too.

My only concern would be if he opens it up, at that price he quotes you only to find out that there is something VERY wrong and that your going to have to buy another anyway. At which point it would have been cheaper to just pick one up and do it yourself.... If that is something you can handle in your own garage, with Time permitting, etc. Nothing worse then Scabby Workmanship.

Not sure how many miles on it, but might want to get a new Water pump and Temp sensor too, since it's gonna be all apart anyway. I think I recall the Nissan parts guy telling me the water pump has a life of about 160,000 miles or something but don't quote me on that. Not that expensive and that way you wont have to rip crap apart again for a LONG time.

Had the Exact same thing happen to me on the First Pathfinder I owned. Same side, same hole. Same Calstinky UCA installation. Pain in the ass to say the least. I spent a good deal of time doing the heli coil bit. Worked for me. I never mentioned it on here cause I was embarrassed. Glad to see it's happened to quite a few of us. Makes me feel better now even if it absolutely sucks for you man. Oh ya..... and enjoy Calmini's brutally annoying squeaky UCA's. You may want to do as others have on here and drill in a Zerk where the Bushings are for some special grease. I found their product to be beefy which was great, but noisy, and If your planning on Rancho's as I read above, better consider removing some material from the shock holes. They don't like to fit the Rancho 9000xs series too well. Just a thought. Good luck man. I feel for ya.

My guess is its not the Motor at all. Since you hear the motor operating when its going down thats a sign its working properly. My bet is its the switch. Try taking your Drivers side switch and swapping it to the Passenger side to test it. This was fairly common on the Dodge Ram Trucks I worked on at the dealership. I replaced a LOT of switches with this exact issue.

Energy suspension makes quality bushings. here's a link to the page with a few parts for a 1991. Energy Suspensions

*bookmarked* Grimgreg. Don't suppose you've got a site bookmarked where you found hose LED's that specifically fit our rigs handy do you? Would make this topic complete if you did and posted it up.