RedPath88

CHECK YOUR CO.... wait, you did that somebody actually checked the codes!!! is this forum coming too! Reset the computer and forget it... unless it happens again

I suppose that if it's not tight then air could escape or come through there, thus throwing the reading off.. When changing the O2, it is not a bad idea to reset the computer by unplugging the battery for 10 or 20mins.

Well Phil, your not answering the phone... or I mean Cindy is no longer answering as you have NEVER personally spoken to me. You are not even checking PM's (sent the last one on June 21st and it is still unread) and nobody is responding to emails anymore. I have not seen you on the boards in a long while, but thought I would make another attempt to contact you this way, since all others attempts have gone unanswered. You told me that you would make this right, you told me that you would replace the centerlink, Cindy told me the same, she also told me that you would be working on my replacement CL "this weekend" and it would ship "next week" two and a half months ago, a month and a half ago I was once again told that you would be working on orders "this weekend." As I said in one of a several unanswered emails, the original... and unused ...CL that you sent me is ready to be sent back to you... I am willing to send it back AFTER I get a proper replacement so that you know (if the pics here do not say it loud enough) that I am not just trying to get an extra CL out of you. How about a response Phil... better yet, how about a completion of the deal we made over a year ago... of which I completed MY end of it one year ago as of the 30th of THIS month! As you know, on many occasions I have provided you with multiple ways to get a hold of me... board PM, direct email, phone and have even given you a way to reach me by phone so that YOU do not incur any long distance charges! You also have my shipping address!

They are not "revised" anything for Nissan.. they are simply high quality exhaust manifold studs for anything they'll screw into and are long enough for There are a couple of guys at my local Napa (unfortunately one less now) who really know their stuff. I seldom ever need to question what they recommend and they assured me that they were the same studs that they use when replacing them in an engine, any engine. 16 months and 40,000 miles later, they are still holding tight

Yeah, because Nissans are overflowing with HP

Duct tape, ty wraps... bubble gum or bailing wire Ok Ok, a stock replacement from a wrecking yard or something suggested above

bah, I've had SW hubs on my Yota since I bought the truck over eleven years ago and I have never broke one . ...oh wait, you said "on Nissans" well that makes a difference

I did the exact same swap your looking at now... an 87 engine into an 88 truck (but mine was because of rounded out crankshaft keyways) The engines are the same so there are no concerns on compatibility Although I got mine from a wrecking yard, understand that buying from a wrecking yard can be hit or miss. If you do, make sure they will warranty it to run strong for "at least" 30 days.. most will do that some will go 90 or even 180 days. Buying from an importer is another option but you will end up spending more on gaskets and seals (assuming you do not replace most of them in a WY engine) because the intake from yours will have to be swapped over to the imported engine. So if you go this route, make sure you figure in the additional cost and time to do it. When I did mine I replaced all the intake gaskets along with the exhaust, f/r main seals, iirc I also did the cam seals and I also replaced the oil pan gasket. I might be missing some others here I do not recommend reusing your old timing belt... it's possible if the engine abruptly stopped, even if only for a second, that the belt could have been damaged and there is no guarantee that you will see anything wrong with it. The timing belt can ruin your new engine in a second... and besides , they are cheap Any good auto parts store can get you replacement studs, you don't have to get the Nissan "300Z" studs. I got mine from NAPA, they ordered them in for me and I had them the next day.

hahaha, I was thinking about doing it myself..

Actually that link takes you to these exact forums, it just forwards to npora.ipbhost.com. Ahh, I forgot that I put domain masking on it... if you click a forum link the url never changes

They really should just toss a couple coils (or spacers) in a box along with the UCA's and offer a Pathfinder lift kit. They would get more business I am sure, as people would not have to find out about the option from forums like us. But then again it may be to our advantage to keep it the way it is, as people now have to search for options and end up finding us

It was apparently the beginning of his "upgrade" to the main site, that.. well

Point it to www.nissanpathfinders.net "I" promise that one will remain

That is strange... most of us, including myself ordered them directly from RC without any trouble at all. In the future when you do not get the results your looking for, try calling back later and talking to someone else

You'll find a write up by 5523Pathfinder in the Garage/HowTo section on Timing belts... much of it will be usefull for the water pump as well. As for the electric fan, you will need an electric fan control kit... any parts store will be able to get you what you need. And if you do a serch here there is a lot of info on this sucbject, including what used fan is best

Without knowing exactly what he said he probably meant that the tranny cooler (located inside the radiator) was the cause of the tranny failure. They are to restrictive and start clogging up over time, it's a known problem that effects most automatic WD21's (Pathfinders & Terrano's). Hud and anyone else with an Auto WD21, the preventive measure to take care of this in the future is to completely bypass the stock tranny cooler and install either an aftermarket cooler or one from a wrecking yard.. such as from a ford or chevy V8 equipped car or truck.

I just skimmed through this again and did not see any mention of the fan clutch... or did I just miss it? If the clutch is bad then the fan is not running at full speed and your not going to get the air flow needed to keep things cool. ------------- A number of years ago I had cooling issues with my Yota. I checked everything and I replaced most things... hoses, in case there was separation inside that was causing some blockage, thermostat, water pump, even bypassed the heater core to eliminate it as a possible cause.. I was down to thinking that there must be some blockage in either the radiator the head or the block. I ordered a new radiator, and the day before I was to pick it up the truck had finally had enough... Fast forward... I now had the Pathy and the Yota had been parked for a long time now. I was also able to devote little time and money to fixing the Yota. I thought that the head had cracked (since I was forced to continue driving it while it had the cooling issues), but decided to risk throwing away some oil and $20 on a head gasket before spending a lot more on other remedies. Glad I did, $20 for the gasket, new oil and filter from the garage, and about 5hrs of work (most of which was spent cleaning trying to get the fuel pump to "pump" again) and she fired and ran at normal temps. But to my dismay the over heating issue came back within an hour.... however I noticed something that was not or rather had stopped working.. the cooling fan was not running at full speed. The clutch was bad. I had checked that before and found it to be working. But after a couple cycles of allowing it to cool then starting it back up I discovered that the fan was working, just not all the time After checking the price of a new fan clutch, I bought an auto fan control kit and headed to the wrecking yard for a used electrical fan.. never an issue again A:ok: ------------- So what was the point of the much to long story? Have you checked your cooling fan? If not make sure it is running at full speed when it should be and every time it should be

Yep a number of people have installed BL's on Auto trucks

$103.42USD Olympia Nissan

Get yourself a stethoscope (cheap at HF) and locate exactly where the sound is coming from

So everything went smoothly and the trucks running right now?

Moving this to the Garage, because it covers more than just six years worth of Pathfinders

Yes, black smoke (aka to rich of an air/fuel mixture... to much fuel) can be caused by a bad O2 Sensor

They are designed not to need them... mine leaked because they(the hoses) were damaged when I got it (it was used)

Theres nothing to it, pull the carpet up in the cargo area, remove the access panel, disconnect the fuel lines and electrical connectors (try not to get fuel on the connectors/wires) pull the pump and install the new one in reverse order. Before you pull the pump, start the engine then pull the fuel pump fuse and let the engine go till it dies, that will release the pressure from the fuel lines