RedPath88

??? up to freeway speed ???

Sure... yours mounts the same way mine does right? Do you want the holes pre drilled, if yours is not exactly the same the holes could be located a little differently.

Does the Alt light come on when the engine is off and you turn the key to "RUN" before starting it? If not then the bulb is blown or there is some other connection issue involving the light.

You should see a couple of nuts on the top of the bolt (above the cross member) those are used to lock the adjusting bolt in place. if they are not there then you should probably get a couple replacements for it as leaving it loose like it was "could" allow the bolt to back off some. Which would result in the suspension dropping some.

Mine is an SE and has a factory installed 5spd

I am sure you have already seen mine, or one like it since to mentioned the bracket, but figured I would post the pics anyway. The bracket was quickly made with a few bucks worth of construction braces from Home Depot ***Ignore the ty wraps/zip ties and oil mess, I recently had one hose leak and added a single TW to stop it, the others are "insurance" and it will all be fixed during my next oil change

Congrats on the truck Although you can spend the money on the disconnects, I would recommend that before you do, remove the sway bar and drive without it for a week. Then decide if your money is well spent on them, or best spent elsewhere. I disconnected my (rear) sway bar a long time ago, and have had no problems since. Other drivers have even been "kind" enough to have given me the opportunity to test the trucks manors in quick maneuvers without it... including the morning after I removed it... a local newspaper van almost ran me off the road @ 50mph, then the other morning I had a car pull RIGHT out in front of me @ 45mph. She handled perfectly, I really could not have asked for her to have handled any better. But test it for yourself and come to your own conclusion

First of all... congrats on the truck and repairs. Sounds like a good score Now I am going to touch on that rust thing again I know you said that you know how and where to look for rust, but do you have a full understanding on just how bad and sometimes non-apparent the rust issues on a 4dr Pathy can be? Just to be on the safe side... nothing wrong with being safe, right? ...give the frame rails in the rear wheel wells (both sides) a couple good solid hits with the a hammer... just to be SURE of what condition they are in. People have had them snap in half before, all the while swearing that they look fine

Yeah, as far as I know all you are "required" to have a stop/tail lights and corner marker lights.

I would not bet my life on that "roll cage" look at the side shots of it, it seems to me like it would fold up if he ever did roll... just not enough bracing IMO It's a nice truck for what he built it to be... just needs a bit more work to make things right.

Can't speak for all states but Washington State allows up to a 42 or 44in tire... last I heard (but it has been a while). And the overall height of a vehicle is limited to a maximum of 14ft. I could be wrong, as i just heard this from a coworker who moved here from another state, but the use of turn signals is "optional" in some states, as are actually having them. Anyone live in a place that does not technically require the use or existence of turn signals?

JGC coils can be found as low as $20 a pair at many wrecking yards

General Topics > The Garage > How-To's > How to change your timing belt!, Description with pics! General Topics > The Garage > How-To's > Pathfinder Service Manuals ***Keep checking back, they said the downloads would be back 9/2 but the manuals are not up yet***

iirc, there is a stripped section of the neg cable just a little ways from the battery that is clamped and bolted to the body and then the cable continues on to the engine block... Right side, at the front... bolted to the block. I ran the new cable to that point and left the section of the old that goes from the block to the body.

Thankfully they did not! If they had we would not have a locker option

I replaced mine a while back after some issues with power and because it had been cut down by prior owners and was a bit short.. Once I had it off stripped it back a couple of inches and found that the corrosion have worked it's way down the cable, but since it was inside the insulation, it was not visible before I stripped it. I also replaced the neg cable since I was there anyway. the new cables solved my problems.

Any "good" parts store should be able to get you the right Woodruff Key

As it turns out there are several different coils that were used on JGC's. Thanks to Scott (k9sar) some of them were ID'ed. The thicker/larger around they are the more "lift" you will get. This was discovered after 88 wrote that. Yes you do have to cut some of the top coil off because that coil tapers from a 4in inside diameter down to 3in's. Pathfinders us a 4in ID from top to bottom, where as the JGC's used four at the bottom and three at the top.

Should be the stereo amp, verify it by following the wiring Use sites such as ImageShack , PhotoBucket or one of the many other image hosting sites. then insert the forum weblink into your posts

I have one on the other side that wraps around the back, but it was obviously caused by physical damage to the metal. That area was repaired and either it was done under the ownership of an ealier owner, the the prior most owner has not been fully honest with you.

Almost without exception, they have an access panel under the carpet in the rear cargo area

Right on!

Three times in about a year, you say? Apparently that is exactly the way to like to spend your time

That sucks... keep this up and will have too appoint to as "The Official NPORA Starter Replacement Technician"!