RedPath88

Something of note about my choice to go with AT's may also be worth mentioning. When I bought the tires I was driving 100+ miles a day for work, now that I drive a flat 40miles round trip in the Pathy (company vehicle for the remaining 60+) my next set of tires may not be AT's. I went with the AT's before do too the majority of my drives conditions (on road racking up two and a half to three and a half thousand miles a month) Since the length of my daily drive in the truck has dropped considerably and I currently do not have to drive on the freeway, I will be re-evaluating what tire I go with next time. Since the BFG AT's have served me well (as most of the AT's mentioned above would)I may end up sticking with them for my next set... but then again the MT's on my Yota have also treated me very well

I agree as I also liver in WA, I have MT's on my Yota and AT's on the Pathy... as a result each must be driven differently in rain, snow and ice. The MT's just are not good for those conditions driving on pavement. 's Pickles... perhaps that siping is why the PC's get better traction than your BFG's did I have had the opportunity to drive the Pathy with both siped tires and non-siped (is that a word? ). They were and are the exact same tires, the BFG AT's currently on my rig. siping made a big difference in wet road braking and I believe that any tire, MT's included could benefit on road from that modification. To expand on that, you need to really consider the conditions that you will be using the truck on once you get new tires. If you will be spending a lot of time off road then MT's may be your best option, but if the majority of your new tires life will be on road then AT's will serve you better overall... and you'll likely get a longer tread life ot of them that you would MT's under the same conditions.

Welcome to the club, even most of the V6 owners wish we had a "little more power" Yep I know it's the Z24, but what I meant was that they made no major changes to it for the new line of trucks (Hardbody's and Pathfinders)

Dude, watch this!! Ok I know you feel the risk is worth it, but even if you only do the belt your just in it a couple hours and about $20 (might also consider a new tensioner if it's just been sitting for 4yrs) If it breaks then it may end up being the same as if you had just taken to hammer to the XBox you traded.. maybe more. The point is, unless your just out the break and dispose of the truck, the risk is... IMO ...not worth it. And if you do mean to just destroy it, then please jusst sell or give it to someone who can get some real use out of it. Less than a day and you assure yourself that the belt should not be an issue. I recommened that your seriously think about it before deciding not to change it

I am sure that there are some who want them, maybe because they are rare here or perhaps because the engine is a time tested and proven unit... unless I am mistaken it is the same Z24 that had been in Nissan rigs for some time before the Pathfinder came into being. Something that more people appear to want here in North America is a Diesel which is even more rare, perhaps that is what you are hearing about?

He pretty much summed it up Very nice find

Lee has not posted here since 6 Aug 2004 and has not logged in since 31 Aug 2005. As far as anyone knows he is no longer part of L&P either.

He did that a while back after anouncing here that changes were being planned for the main site. But he has not updated us on what or when any thing will happen

GP is right, it's likely just your front seal. Which means your going to be doing the same thing you jsut did, all over again

Looks good

I'll 4th it, but... I think that if you drop the front drive/suspension, unbolt the T-Bar cross member, rear drive shaft and then slide the tranny back you could probably do it in the truck.

It's been that way for a while now... Jim has not updated us on exactly what he is doing yet

First... your sure its not simply your alternator begining to fail? Not sure which relay that is without going out and looking or digging out my FSM, but if it is a standard relay you can get a replacement at any auto parts store.

They are side by side in the drivers side rear access panel.

I closed this thread a month ago as a showing of good faith towards Phils willingness to contact me and "appearance" to want to work it out. Phil, you asking me to let you know what I wanted done, what parts I felt needed replaced and I asked only for the CL to be replaced. You also told me that you would "get on it". That was a month ago, ten days later I sent a PM requesting some form of update. After that I called and left you a couple voice messages requesting the same and letting you know that you had a PM from me. Last weekend or earlier this week I called and left a message on your machine stating that if you did not contact me by the 11th that I would reopen this thread. I left another one last night. I really have tried to resolve this situation without going public , but this seems to be the only way that I can get you to respond. Phil, it is now the 12th and I have still heard nothing from you, in fact you have not even read the PM that I sent you on the 21st of last month. So when are you planning on replacing this CL or are you leaving me with a part that is, by the opinion of the members of this board (and your prospective customers) of poor quality and unsafe to install or use?

This is good news I've also sent you a PM

Your right Please do not recommend improper and potentially unsafe repairs If your not comfortable with the safety of a repair please do not sell it too someone else without telling them of your concerns and any questionable repairs that have been made.

Ebay LockRight offered by Rocky Road Outfitters $235USD + Shipping, they may also give you the price if you call in, normally around $250USD. But they seem to be a little slow on getting them to you... It took a while to get mine, but I got it. Another member (located way out of the country) is having some trouble, but that has to do, at least a little, with the international deal I am sure.

Phil and I are in talks to work this out and for the time being I am going to lock this thread in good faith.

No comment

Sounds like you had a good time

After I swapped engines I adjusted my torsion bars to take care of the sag that almost 20yrs can cause. Over a bit of time they settled down below where I had adjusted them too, which is normal after adjusting them. But the left hand side settled to a lower point. It looked as if like the rear was sagging more, but after adjusting the T-bar the whole truck leveled out again. I would give that a try and see where that puts you

Number one thing I can recommend is that you replace it with a new one once you get it out. With that in mind, grab it with a pair of channel locks (Adjustable pliers) or vice grips and yard it out of there. just don't damage the crank. The reason I say replace it is because I had the keyways (balancer and timing sprocket) round out on me and ruin the crank shaft in my original engine. Which I believe may have been caused by the key's failing.

Ok so I have kept quiet on the boards about my dealings with Phil of _&P Performance (I omit the L because as I understand Lee is no longer part of the company) Now I have the need to make it public so.. for the last seven months I have been waiting on my Stage3 Kit (with optional IA bushings) and this past Wednesday the parts finally arrived. My patience seemed to have paid off after all.. or did it? I am not a welder, I have no skills but do plan on learning how. As such I am no authority on quality welds, but since I am not comfortable with what I see here, I am tossing this out to all of you for opinions. I want to be sure that this is a quality built part BEFORE I put it on my truck, because if it is not, then it not only puts my safety at risk, but it also puts my boy's (my soon to be ten year old twins) at risk. The pics can be found here: RedPath88 - Photobucket I ask that you take a few to look through them and give me your 100% honest opinions on what you see in the photo's. You will also see how one bolt does not go all the way through, if a little force is applied it will, but the alginment of the hole on the "Double Shear" plate appears to be off a little. And Phil, if you are reading this, I would have tried to contact you first but for the past seven months you have been ignoring my calls and my voice and electronic messages... so what can I do?

Welcome back