RedPath88

You can call local shops and have them make one for you

I paid $3.39 this morning, that's up $0.11 since last night and $1.20 since Feb. And thats not the even the highest price in the area I spent $2400 in fuel last month, and that was WITH 10 days off of work

Sounds like a Plan Jim and congrats on the job Oh and way to go on lighting that fire under Aarons... 88

Just a short 145mile drive.. I am up for that This sounds like a great idea. Pezzy, a while back you told me "you need to have an event in your area" that was worthy of the drive for you, would this qualify as worthy? If this works out then we'll see the two of you in a year.. maybe two? And just think Simon, this could very well give you a chance for that rust free WD21

hahaha, not the simply overnight process many think it will be.. eh?

He has a 3in Trailmaster Body Lift, not a 4in Trailmaster Drop Bracket Suspension Lift

It is a little hard to see, but if you look at my Yota in my sig pic you can see that the pumpkin is on the passenger side of the truck, which unfortunately is why a stock Toyota front axle cannot be used on our Nissans... Pathfinder/Hardbody transfer cases are drivers side drop.

Or front Diff Drivers side or Passenger side drop indicates which side the front drive line is on for a given axle or transfer case. Next time you are near a solid front axle truck (many older 4x4's such as Toyota, most full sized trucks , Jeeps and newer Ford F250+ and Dodge 2500+ 4x4's) take a look at which side the pumpkin is offset to

No you do not have to replace the T-Bars when lifting, unless they are worn to the point that they will not hold the level of lift that you want.

Some do seem to be impossible to remove... I have been unable to remove mine too, changed the clutch and swapped engines, both times I had to roll the boot up and over the stick because the knob would not move , not even a little. iirc 88 was also unable to get Rami's off when they did his body lift.

This is the best link I can give you Clicky I am not trying to be a jerk, but come on, lifts have been covered so many times. there is a ton of info on lifting your truck here, in about any way possible. But you need to put forth a little effort to find it (and I do me a "little") Once you do a little of your own research then feel free ask any remaining questions you may have, or for clearification on anything you do not understand.

I think it was Skinny Pedal who installed one without moving the tire.. but I could be wrong.

Don't confuse a "linelock" with a driveline brake slick (Two different things) It is possible that the contact pads (I say that because I do not know exactly what this one has) are warn out, which could be the reason it does not seem to work. The reason people would use them is because they tend to be stronger than standard drum e-brakes. Another is the same reason why I am installing a transfer case brake (same idea) on my Yota. (I choose this over a linelock after researching both) I am going to convert to disks in the rear and the kit i have does not have a provision for any kind of emergency/parking brake because it uses the same calipers that my truck has on the front end right now. So you need something to keep the truck from moving when your foot is not on the brake. Have you checked to see if there is a locker already installed in the rear end? I ask this because it is "generally accepted" that if you use a transfer case/driveline brake that you should also install a locker. Because if one wheel looses traction for any reason the other will be allowed to rotate even with the brake installed.

Like uucc said, that looks like a driveline parking brake. Test it... pull the lever, then try and push the truck (making sure that it is not in gear and the regular parking brake is not engaged) You could also watch it while someone else moves the lever The Sport/Touring button to see is for the factory adjustable shocks. Check the shocks and see if they have leads hooked to them (it's possible that someone replaced them with normal non adjustable shocks). or while driving if they function properly you should feel the suspension stiffen up some when you have it set on Sport.

Look at what you started Mr. P

One could argue that building your truck to "look" like the ones in the pics you attached would be a waste of money as well, unless you have a real need for it by actually using it for the intended purpose.

Welcome to the forums :: Head light problems on a WD21 are most commonly the switch.

Yep same here, the night before out last group wheeling trip here I disconnected mine. On the way to the meet I had a local paper van try and run me off the road. I had to swerve to the right and then back to the left (on to the shoulder and back on the road) to avoid a collision. I did notice extra body roll, but it was not so much that I could not maintain control. Remove it, try it.... I recommend more than just a couple test drives before making your final decision. And go from there

Ok with that out of the way Yes this happened to me and no it's really not cool Doug, I have to ask... how much of that 2K was spent on the actual engine repair. And I mean tearing it down, doing the repairs and putting the engine back together. But NOT including the removal of reinstallation of the complete engine into the truck? The reason I ask is because if the tear down, head inspections, head and crank repairs along with anything else that was done to the engine added up to more than $500-$700 then you might have been better off getting a crate engine from an importer or a used one from a wrecking yard.

Any one thing you want more? What you should ask for depends on what you want and what you need... that's a tough one for others to answer. But most importantly, it depends on what someone else is willing to get you

Wow that sucks.. hope it works out. Let me know if I can do anything

If nothing seems to be happening when you move the temp control, then I would say you need to investigate that. perhaps the linkages have slipped off, jammed of simply broke. So the automatic controls are electric? Ok, I would have expected them to be vacuum operated. Check the elect connections & wires from end to end, check to see if there is a signal passing across the wires as well. If the connections are good and the elect signal is being delivered to the motor, then it's time to test the that.

On the ID tag in the engine bay (mine is on the right-hand side near the firewall) there is a series of numbers and letters for the "Model". It should be the third set of digits down from the top. Post that string of numbers and we can identify the trim level of you truck As for identifying what your truck is by the options installed... good luck, Nissan had some really blurry lines as for what options went on what trucks. Mine is an SE, but it does not have adjustable shocks, roof rack, fender flares or an LSD. It also did not come with the "Lego" wheels or 31in tires, no rear wind deflector, I don't even have a single illuminated visor vanity mirror, etc.

from a 1989 FSM Same image, different size Added this one for others if needed From a 1994 FSM

Look in the How-To section of the Garage.