RedPath88

Theres the problem If you can get the manifolds cheap then yes, you have a point there. Headers available for Pathfinders do make a difference, as many here will tell you. Even better if coupled with new exhaust. They will also solve some exhaust problems associated with our engines. but if saving money now is the goal, then replace the manifolds. IF you are sure they are bad (ie warped beyond allowable limits even with a resurfacing or cracked)

The other pages are still there, but the links to them are gone now. He must have started some work on it...

Simon is right and this is something that all of us (VG30 owners) have to deal with sooner or later. I replaced my manifold studs when I did the engine swap. If none of them are broke at the head and they all come out easily then it's a realative piece of cake, if they do not want to come out then it gets more complicated. (I had three or four that I had to extract the hard way) As Simon pointed out the VG30 is basicly the only engine you will find in the North American WD21's (87-95 Pathfinders), the exception would be a few 4cyl WD21's he mentioned

Why meaning, you said that your "1991 service manual" listed only one, but the parts store I checked listed three of them each with seperate part numbers and prices. One thing of note is that not one of the manufactures listed had all three, instead it was two of the three, but not all the same. It could just be that the store does not carry the full line from each manufactures.. that happens a lot. When it comes to brakes I prefer to play it safe, the parts numbers are all different so I am not willing to "assume" that the parts are all the same. They may appear to be from the outside, but that says nothing of thier design on the inside. I am considering the disk swap (not anytime soon though) so a call the dealer to ask if the MC's do fully interchange may be in order here. If they say no then IMO it's not worth pushing ones luck... brakes are simply to important to risk them not working 100% Just my opinion, carry on

Not sure why, but parts stores list three of them. 1: 2 wheel Disks 2: 4 wheels disks 3: ABS Perhaps the ABS controls the back presurre in rear disk and antilock setup.

But do you have full braking in the rear using the original MC? On disk brake systems there is a back pressure built into the system via the MC. I do not recall the exact PSI now, but some pressure is kept in the lines to make sure that the calipers keep the pads at the disk so when you press the brake pedal they respond right away. Without that pressure the pistons are allowed to return to a fully open position and as a result you will not get any braking until the calipers pistons have moved from fully open, to the point the pads make contact with the disks. In some cases you may actually have to pump the brakes in order to get full or in extreme cases, any braking at all. Now I am not trying to say that your setup is not working, just cautioning you that you are likely not getting "full" braking in the rear like you should.

Glad the damage was minimal... but yeah, it is that time of the year

http://www.pensketruckrental.com/

*Thomas is not going to be happy that you stole his sig pic * Brake and Battery lights on together are a warning for the alternator., first check your belts tension. Did it squeal at all? A/T Light, perhaps on a Auto that light comes on as well? Someone with an auto can prolly verify that. Get the Alternator tested and clean and dry out all your electrical connectors and see if that helps it any.

nick1716, yep he said he was selling it to buy something better for towing a boat... must have found something. Custom Winch Bumper and Winch

You can get what you need to put it back to gether at wrecking yards.. if they have some pathys in and if they let go of engine parts without buying the whole engine. Some do, some don't, you just have to look around and ask. Change the timing belt while your at it The locks cost will be minimal if you get them from a wrecking yard (any parts needed that is) and do it yourself.

Although I am sorry it is a Durango Congrats on the new rig

Better articulation (flex)... aka to allow the rear tire in you sig pic to touch the ground

Try the link again

It will last until it breaks and then you will forever wish you had listened to the people in this thread that said 60K. A timing belt is not something that should be "pushed" it's an inexpensive part (replacement is really cheap if you do it yourself) and way to critical to your engines longevity to risk going beyond the recommended intervals

Glad to hear he was able to help you, you'll find lots of other good people and a whole bunch of good info too

Pavelow Leaks had a problem like this. It started here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=13648 And he solved the issue here: http://www.nissanpathfinders.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=14088

Hmm, I guess I missed that Out of the garage? lol it is, I drive it daily But yeah, meeting up for a run this summer would be cool. We had one a little while back and I am sure people are ready to get to gether again.

Nice Grant ...if you have no plans for that front end, Slick may be interested

That's good news

Same here, I took mine off a while back and have had nothing like you describe... but then, I have not yet installed my locker either

Sounds good..be sure to report back on how she runs

Welcome back Aaron.

There are two reasons for a twin stick transfer case shifter on Yota's 1 The most obvious reason... dual transfer cases. 2 Possibly less known, for controlling 2/4WD and Lo/Hi ranges separate. For instance, with a dual lever setup on a single t-case you could have 2Lo where as with the stock single stick setup you cannot.

I just replaced my RH light and as noted above, just pull the plug, turn and remove the retainer then swap the bulb/lamp and replace the retainer and plug