RedPath88

Pull the codes first, that way you have a starting point in case it does not fix it and does not throw the code again right away (even though it should) As yozsi said, they are really easy to pull the codes from. It will only take a few minutes of your time.

The firestone idea is becoming more and more popular as time goes on. They run $150 regularly (iirc) but have sales fairly often for $120-$130. Mr. Pickles had his done there and said he's been back a few times with no complaint from them.

The NAPA ones should serve you well, if the originals have made it 120,000km

I do understand your resistance to perform major mods on your truck, all I am saying is that I have seen newer... even newer than yours ..trucks/SUV's mod'ed way more than what we are talking about here. Again, IMO it is the owner of the truck that makes the difference, not the truck. A SAS is a far bigger mod than simply swapping rear axles for another "bolt in" unit, and yet there are plenty of newer SAS'ed trucks/SUV's out there. It seems to me that you are saying swapping a rear axle (IF one was available with disks) is a major mod. If the axle is bolt in it's not that big of a mod, a bit of work yes, but not a "major" mod im my book. All we are talking about here is one method of a brake conversion, not a major axle/housing upgrade. However, since it seems that there were no rear disks available on R50s, this hijacking is pointless *Seems odd that Nissan did not offer rear disks on second gen Pathy's when they did on the first gen... wonder why

I edited your reply in my quote... because people mod even brand new trucks. It's not based on the age of the truck, it's based on the owner of the truck

At the bottom of the page, on the left

If the mounts for the axle are the same then it would be about as easy as it can get. Unbolt the original and bolt the replacement in. (driveshaft, brake lines and sus linkage) Replace MC with a four wheel disk unit, bleed brakes and go. *simplified, but you get the idea

Did the new seal seat all the way when you replaced the old one? The crank/cam shaft could have a burr on it that damaged the new oil seal after you replaced it, did you fully inspect the crank/cams prior to installing the new seals? It's possible that the new seal was damaged as or before you installed it.

I tend to disagree.. at least in the case of the NWOR rotors shown. I do not personally have them but I do know someone who had major issues with rotors warping after a built 351 and 38in tire swap. He installed the aftermarket rotors and had far fewer problems (now on his second set in about 8yrs, but has not driven the truck in over a year now). Brake pad longevity did indeed increase over the stock rotors. I have personally seen the results... I helped replace rotors on more than one occasion on this truck I cannot speak for drilled rotors in general, but these rotors do have a rep for being of quality design and construction. The are also considered a worthy upgrade within the Toyota truck offroad segment.

That is exactly what I was thinking... IMO anchors should probably be tethered to a second anchor or something else that is solid as a safety precaution.

Vented rotors work by allowing the brakes to run cooler, which extends the life of the pads, allows for more consistent braking even under heavy use and also reduces the chance of the rotors warping. A quote from an aftermarket rotor manufacturer That targets large increases in tire size but also applies to stock setups as well. Something of note here is that NWOR (Northwest Off-Road Specialties) unfortunately cannot help you in your search for better rotors for your Pathfinder. they are Toyota only specialists.

I have no experience with those brands but what I do notice is that the number of vents and/or slots seems low for "extreme ventilated". Maybe the design does provide enough performace gain over stock to warrent the name, but I am use to upgraded rotors along these lines

Some people have been able to location those bolts while others have not. It's worth a try, take them down to your local hardware store and ask. If you have a specialty bolt/fastener store, even better

Yep, not all shops are like that. Unfortunately those that do ruin it for all the rest

2door 4Runner.. not that common of a beast (at least no in the states)

Since using this alternator is a direct bolt in for mounting and given that you have to swap the trucks original pulley on to the new alternator, the belt remains the same.

NBC 4 News: Jiffy Lube Reacts To Hidden Camera Report

Were they rubber or poly ones like the Engery Suspensions ones are?

Mine do the same but I have found that (at least in my case) it is not due to the weather stripping being bad... at least not entirely ...My windows shifts front to back a little and if I grab the window and push it back it solves the rattle problem. it is then all the way in the seal irather than riding on the outer(front) edge of it. If it is just the sound that you are concerned with you could put some sticky back (or use spray on adhesive) felt on the visor to give the window a padded surface to sit against. Or lower the window an extra half inch.

And people wonder why I do my own work They few times that I have had a shop do something for me (diagnostics once, couple oil changes in a pinch, carb adjustment I could just not get right myself, exhaust) I almost without exception, watch the work being performed from start on to completion.

The only ones who have any reason take this thread on a personal level are Phil and those involved in the deals that seem to have gone bad. -thnkboutit-

nissandoms47, Nothing personal here, but perhaps you should re-evaluate your position in this... as far as I can tell none of this is of your doing or your concern. Unless you are an unknown part of "_ &P" Performance He may be a "friend" of yours but based on the info available this is solely a result of Phils doing and it is Phil who must bear the consequences. Now I am not condoning physical harm towards him, but this is his mess and he alone needs to clean it up. And aside from the whole not delivering issue there is NO excuse for not responding to emails, Personal Messages, voice messages and simply NOT answering the phone. Lets not forget the apparent failure to return core charges to Customers. If you cannot deliver in a timely matter, then you should make that perfectly clear to potential customers or simply not take any orders until you are in a position to deliver. Taking and not completing orders cannot be justified on any level. Neither can zero communications with customers when you are alive and capable of phone and Internet communications (and it is known that he is capable of both.) This is my opinion, based on the entire situation as I know it.

Slick, if it still has stock UCA's I wonder if a set ot RC's may help correct that? Unless I am mistaken, the SL/RC arms are a little bit wider 88 was it you that I recall mentioning that? (You have comparied them side by side) *Go's and looks for the pic posted with them side by side *EDIT* I think I found the pic, but we will have to wait and see if 88 can put it back on his server... since it seems to be gone now

Alone those lines... I think it depends on the over all look of the truck (with the new tires) It's a case by case decision for me

If your going to take it in to have the throw out bearing changed bring a new clutch and pressure plate with you.. have them replace it if it's needed, if not return them (although it is usually cheaper to buy them as a set)