RedPath88

That's an admin thing, have to sweet talk 88 for that At one time the header pic.. the old one ...was also a link to the home page.

That is correct

WOW to both stories... glad the little girl recovered Mookie

Hmm wonder if they sent any warnings out... and if so then maybe 88, you could ask them to add you to the mailing list so that we know what is going to happen before it actually does Also, something you all may want to be aware of, there was info regarding the status of the forums on the NPORA home page (www.nissanpathfinders.net) It is currently displaying the status of the forums as "online" along with the cause of last nights outage, this will remain until the end of the night.

Hahaha, I wish I could claim credit for this Steve, but I cannot And actually I thought, at first, that it might have been you who dug this one up.. the timing was perfect! Don't worry about digging this up JM, you should never feel bad about doing such a thing. That is why old threads are left available.. we actually encourage new and old members alike to search for answers or topics they need

STOP DRIVING IT NOW!!! Sorry, but for your safety and everyone around you you need to do that! Then look at the frame rails from the side (above the rear tires) and crawl under the truck and take a very good look around, find and correct the problem before you drive the truck again.

Yeah Happy New Year all

Don't bet your truck or your life on the lack of smell... it takes only a small portion of your day to clean it out

Yeah RC, SL and CM UCA's are all built to correct angles once lifted, which means that if installed and left at the stock height, then your likely going to have problems getting everything adjusted right when you take it in for an alignment. AC arms however would not have that problem since, as I understand it, do not compensate for the changes in suspension angles once lifted. The problem that some have reported with them is getting it right once it is lifted.

umm, yeah not so often... 330,000+ and mine are still solid

BOTH of them busted? Very strange!

Upper Control Arms on the front end... there is a ton of info on them here. Nice to see that RC is still offereing decent deal on them

I have had no real long single trips on the pathy, but I used to drive it between 550 and 1000 miles a week at one point for work (city/highway mix). And other than when my clutch broke (yes broke, it did not wear out) I have not had any major problems since I replaced the engine 45,000 miles ago... The original engine was prone to problems though (ie broken cam shaft and rounded crank keyways) but that one just seemed cursed

You would be wise to make sure everything works as it should well before you ever need it

I soldered a couple breaks once in my old Escort, that was the repair method that was explained to me then. kinda of a PITA but it worked... if I had used flux it probably would have been easier. You do have to be care full though, don't get the glass to hot and probably not a god idea to do it in real cold temperatures either. Brush on stuff sound much easier lol

Replacing/reindexing torsion bars is not hard at all... you release the tension by backing off the adjusters. To remove the T-bars all you really need is a jack, something to support the truck (jack stands, cinder blocks, blocks of wood, etc) two 19mm wrenches or one wrench and a 19mm socket, along with a couple 14mm and 12mm wrenches or one each along with sockets. I guess a lift would allow you to stand under the truck, but is not needed... and a come-a-long? I have no idea why you might need one of them

First thing is for you to get under there and identify all parts that are in need of replacement.. use the manual to associate names with them. Then call the parts store, wrecking yards and local dealers for prices. There are instructions for that here, take a look around Should be fine, just don't do it in or right before freezing temperatures (that way the water has time to get out before freezing) Check fuses, relays, switches and level linkages before dedicating yourself to replacing the entire motor assembly.

Right on Mr. P, glad it worked out and that you did not have to spend a ton of money to have someone else do it for you

Have you tried heat? I tend to have good luck with a propane torch when penetrant alone will not do the trick Did you start spraying them down with PB a couple days before you started the project? That's usually a good idea if you can.

Right on, thats cool... thanks for supporting!

*PM Sent about decal changes*

Many people with auto's have installed 2in and more often, 3in body lifts

More details about just what a "rebuild" or "full rebuild" means to you... Are you talking about replacing soft and normal wear parts (bushings, bearings, ball joints, tie rod ends, half shafts, etc) or is there hardware that is normally on the truck for hundreds of thousands of miles or even for life, that also needs replaced (upper or lower control arms, steering box, pitman arm, idler arm, centerlink, torsion bars, interior parts of the front diff, front drive shaft, etc)?

That's why everybody is suggesting that you try re-indexing the bars first

Yep shocks just dampen.. or "smooth" the ride by controlling the rebound of the Torsion bars and the sudden compression of the suspension that comes with hitting a bump. If one of the torsion bars was broke then the truck would be siting all the way down on the bump stop on the side(s) a bar is broken. As GrimGreg pointed out, the T-Bars probably just need adjusted or re-indexed if they have to much sag in them. This is something you can do yourself if you choose to